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#15 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Drives: Toyota 86 (2012)
Location: Cape Town
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Hey Rich, how does this compare to the Unichip solution like this one?
http://www.unichip.us/vehicle/vehicl...ota-86GT86-20L |
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#16 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: 2012 VW GLI
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#17 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Drives: Gt 86
Location: South Africa
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I would be very interestat in the first option/package that you sell,(everything in),all depends on the shipping and taxes to pay.
Would i have to go through Ryan for this,or can Ryan assist in the shipping. |
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#18 |
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Road Warrior
Join Date: Nov 2012
Drives: Toyota 86 Satin Pearl White
Location: Durban, South Africa
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Hey Eugene,
I have merely asked Visconti to open the opportunity for us in SA, all dealings is directly with Visconti. What i have been trying to do to save some cash is get some guys in the same areas to jointly purchase and save on the cable cost. Difference between R9k and R6k each. However if you are keen maybe we are allowed to purchase together and save on shipping. Rich can you ship 2 or 3 units in one package and pay $100? |
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#19 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: 2012 VW GLI
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#20 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Drives: Gt 86
Location: South Africa
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#21 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Drives: Gt 86
Location: South Africa
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#22 |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: 2012 VW GLI
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Oh no, so far, we've just been talking about the STG1 Tune in this thread, and why our calibration kicks so much ass
. If you guys are interested in the Vortech Kit, click the the "Visconti Tuning Vortech BLOW-OUT Sale" link in my signature. That'll give you a good idea of what's included in that package, and the details of our sale going on for this month.
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#23 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Drives: Blue Toyota 86 2.0 Standard 6MT
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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Thanks Rich for the informative responses.
Last edited by Matt_RSA; 04-22-2013 at 08:40 AM. |
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#24 |
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Road Warrior
Join Date: Nov 2012
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Hi Rich,
In South Africa we have 2 models, High Spec and Standard Spec. The high comes with speedo cruise and the standard does not. Does this have any impact in changing maps or controls to operate the Tune. Thanks |
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#25 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2013
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I hope Ryan doesn't mind, but I'm going to use some quotes from his PM he sent me to answer some of the questions I've been getting a lot lately. Primarily, I'm getting "Should I upgrade to the Vortech Kit??" Sometimes I can't help but chuckle at these questions, because anyone emailing a vendor asking "should I buy your kit," definitely knows (or should know) what the vendor will reply with.. "Heck yeah, you should buy my kit! Here's where you can send me money" lol.
However! Obvious bias aside.. genuinely, that is not my intent. You all know I'm a vendor and this is how I make my living. But one of the profound differences between myself and what I would consider "the average vendor" is, I really want to do this for the rest of my life. And I think a lot of these guys selling their products are primarily interested in making as much money as they can, as quickly as possible. And I wanted to make this post to try and help you guys understand a little better who I am, and what Visconti Tuning is really about. Because that's not my business model. Far from it actually. I'd much rather sell one "big power" kit to one customer that I knew was ready for it, than 10 big power kits, 4 of which I knew were for people who weren't ready. I would happily give up 10 sales if it meant preventing just one unhappy customer. As I've mentioned, we want you to start from square one with us, and stick with us for as long as you've got that itch for more power (in other words, forever lol). And the only way that's going to happen is if you trust our advice to be in your best interest; not ours. Quote:
So this is all in response to Ryan's questions, which I am truly answering for him as one car guy to the next. I think your gut is almost always the best advice to listen to . Every time I've gone against my gut feeling about something (or someone, more specifically lol), it usually hasn't turned out very well. I know how easy it is to get SO caught up in modifying your car, and wanting to do everything as.soon.as.possible! But generally, it's almost always so much more rewarding to do it in stages. Then at each level, you have the opportunity to feel each difference you've made, and you appreciate everything so much more. As enticing an idea as it may seem to drop $6,000-7,000 into your car at one time (and I'm not saying that it wouldn't be flippin' awesome!), but if you work your way up there at a reasonable pace.. number one, you have the added advantage of much fewer variables to work through IF something wasn't acting right after new mods were installed, and number two, again, it's that appreciation and accomplishment you feel when you've literally built the car from the ground up!So that's just my two cents on that. We're so much more interested in building a community of quality people and quality cars, than we are in selling as many kits as possible. Same logic I just talked about applies here too; it's so much more rewarding to have customers start at the ground level with us (the tune), and build their car up in stages until they're safely running close to three times the performance they were when they joined our team (and we do have several customers like that, and their loyalty to us is unshakable). First and foremost, I do always advise the STG1 calibration/software first, regardless of which tuner anyone goes with. A lot of people choose to do the intakes and exhaust first, and that's cool too. But I believe in an "order" to things and I believe that each mod you add should be able to complement the existing mods or the next ones you plan on adding in the future, so they can make maximum efficiency and performance from each other. That's why I always start with "the brain." If we use the body as an analogy, the brain (the computer) is by far the most important and advanced component; it controls everything. So now that we have the ability to "know" when other parts are upgraded, we can easily tell "the brain".. "Hey, we just upgraded the lungs too, you can take in more air.. breathe harder!" That may be a silly analogy, but I think it's valid ![]() So assuming you go with a STG1 calibration, here's what I would do next if this were my car. I would start next with the exhaust system, and if you can get a deal on the entire setup (the downpipe/overpipe and axle-back exhaust), I would buy it all at once since this is really an essential upgrade to any well rounded car (and also one of the most restrictive stock components; the downpipe/overpipe). After my car was comfortably "exhaling," the intake would be the logical next step, to improve the "inhale." I don't want to get too far into recommendations for name brands, because I don't have the experience with all of them that I feel I should have to make those type of calls. I can tell you what we do have experience with if you want to PM me for specifics. After the intake system (and I'm in including the Drop-In Filter (DIF) as part of that system), next comes the headers. At this stage, you should pretty much have a fire breathing monster . You'll have picked up about 25-30 whp on pumpgas (with our tune anyway) and your car should sound like a beaaast.So where to go from here? At this stage, you're more than ready to upgrade to forced induction. But that's a big upgrade of course, and it costs a lot of money. If you're not quite ready to put down that kind of cash, but you still want to continue to strengthen your platform in preparation of adding forced induction, you could go ahead and upgrade the fuel pumps and injectors.. you could purchase our e85 map if that fuel is available (and note that at STG1, it is not a requirement to upgrade the pumps and injectors to run e85, but again, if you plan to add forced induction, it will be a requirement so it's definitely a good idea to do it). At this stage you could also add some suspension work if you track the car (or just want that extra edge in handling), you could upgrade the brakes, upgrade the wheels and tires (tires are the single most neglected performance piece and they play such an integral role), anything along those lines will help you create the most well rounded car you can. And it's always a good idea to sacrifice a little horsepower for the greater good of the platform. It's not "mandatory" stuff, but we all know performance is a balance. And you don't wanna be one of those guys making 400+ whp with stock clutch, stock brakes, stock mounts, stock "everything else" lol. It'd sorta be like going to the gym 5 times a week and working out nothing but your arms. You're just going to wind up looking silly .So that's what I would consider to be a good basic upgrade strategy, giving you enough flexibility to branch off your own way depending on what's important to you. Finally Ryan asks about the installation procedure once you have our STG1 calibration in hand. I'll run through that process in the next post, just for the sake of brevity and breaking these "essays" up into more easily digestible information pieces . Like always, if there's ANYTHING I can help clarify or explain further, do not hesitate to email me, PM me or call me too. I need to add the phone number to my signature but for now, we can be reached at +1 (201) 477-TUNE or 477-8863. Thanks for reading guys!
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#26 |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: 2012 VW GLI
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 166
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Hey guys - I know this thread has been quiet for a while and I just wanted to open it back up for any feedback, questions, etc. Feel free to post in here or PM me (as many of you have done).
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