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#71 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 2,593
Thanks: 491
Thanked 1,065 Times in 617 Posts
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
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Fiannly getting around to it today!
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#72 |
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ハチロク
Join Date: Oct 2014
Drives: 2015 FR-S Ultramarine Blue
Location: Playa del Rey, CA
Posts: 21
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Adding my 2¢
Hi,
I had a hard time getting off the front badge. I'm sharing in case it might help anyone. It was a sunny, warm day so I thought that would help soften the adhesive. You definitely want Goo Gone to loosen the adhesive. I wasn't making any progress until I used that. I got a start with dental floss, then used a plastic trim removal tool to wedge the side up. The piece came off pretty easily, but left all of the adhesive on the car. It was a lot of work to remove. What seemed to work best was to soak some Goo Gone on the adhesive, use some heat from a heat gun, wipe the Goo Gone off to get some friction with the adhesive, then rub across to remove it with my thumb. This took a lot of time since there was so much adhesive left. My right thumb seemed to get the best resistance so I mostly used it. I ended up with a big blister on it. Goo Gone and rubbing was the way to remove the last bits of adhesive. It did finally clean up nicely. I'm hoping the rear badge is a lot easier when I try it this afternoon. Cheers, LD |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Caspian For This Useful Post: | Ammunition (07-10-2015) |
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#73 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Drives: 10 Series
Location: 1st Coast
Posts: 95
Thanks: 160
Thanked 37 Times in 23 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
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Thanks to FRSupra for starting this thread! Those Toyota part numbers are huge! Definitely a proven removal method I removed the FR-S badge using the same method.
I have an extra hole under my rear scion badge besides the 2 pin holes for wiring to the illuminating badge (10 series). Questions: -Anyone have any suggestions for plugging or hiding the 3rd hole? Maybe a solid non see through badge? was trying to go uncolored too -Anyone have any suggestions to illuminate a Toyota badge or know of one? |
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#74 |
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Bringing Hachiroku Back
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: 2013 Firestorm FR-S
Location: South Florida
Posts: 191
Thanks: 103
Thanked 46 Times in 36 Posts
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
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This sucks.. now that Im finally getting around to swap out the emblems the prices jack up fml. Would really appreciate if anyone could help me out with where could I get them at a reasonable price. 30+ for a plastic emblem is ridiculous.
Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
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#76 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Drives: 2015 Fire
Location: South FLo-Rida
Posts: 447
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Guys so do the USDM badges come with double sided tape already?
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#77 | |
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Bringing Hachiroku Back
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: 2013 Firestorm FR-S
Location: South Florida
Posts: 191
Thanks: 103
Thanked 46 Times in 36 Posts
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
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Quote:
Sent from my SM-G925P using Tapatalk
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#78 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: FRS monogram
Location: victoria BC
Posts: 184
Thanks: 10
Thanked 147 Times in 42 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
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$56CDN for the Avalon badge.. Tried eBay
They either don't ship to Canada or cost another $25 for shipping Boooooo Don't know what to do with my life now |
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#79 | |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Drives: 2013 whiteout frs
Location: La Mirada, CA
Posts: 69
Thanks: 39
Thanked 18 Times in 15 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
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Quote:
What is the best way to black out these badges? Plasti dip or paint? Or does anyone know where I could purchase a pair of T badges already blacked out? |
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#80 |
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Spline Reticulator
Join Date: Aug 2013
Drives: 2013 FR-S Whiteout
Location: Austin, TX Area
Posts: 177
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I've seen a few already blacked out but overpriced - you'd have to search around. I'd go with Plasti. You can just mask around the badge, spray a few coats, then peel off everything that is not badge. And if you have not put them on the car yet, it's even easier. If you screw up, you just peel it all off, wash the surface to be safe, dry, try again. With paint, you get one shot - they can get messed up even painting them before attaching. (drips, runs, etc).
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Semprini For This Useful Post: | bizintine (06-01-2015) |
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#81 | |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Drives: 2013 whiteout frs
Location: La Mirada, CA
Posts: 69
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Quote:
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#82 | |
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Spline Reticulator
Join Date: Aug 2013
Drives: 2013 FR-S Whiteout
Location: Austin, TX Area
Posts: 177
Thanks: 19
Thanked 59 Times in 46 Posts
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Quote:
). They also sell a gloss spray you can put on top of the colored plasti to smooth it out if you don't want the rough look. Rust-oleum also makes an almost identical product but I'm not sure about layering that.
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Johnny was a chemist's son, but Johnny is no more. What he thought was H2O was H2SO4. ![]() |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Semprini For This Useful Post: | bizintine (06-01-2015) |
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#83 |
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Lost in the twisties
Join Date: Sep 2014
Drives: 2014 BRZ Dark Gray Metallic
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 661
Thanks: 436
Thanked 296 Times in 187 Posts
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Or you could use a GT86 Emblem
![]()
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NEW CAR!🚨🏎️⛽
2014 BRZ: Edelbrock SC, CSG ZachTune, Jackson Radiator/Oil cooler, lightweight flywheel, CNT UEL, Berk OP/FP, Ark Grip Catback, Carbon fiber Driveshaft Aztec's Build Thread ![]() |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Aztec For This Useful Post: | haimichaeltran (06-05-2016) |
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#84 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Drives: 2013 whiteout frs
Location: La Mirada, CA
Posts: 69
Thanks: 39
Thanked 18 Times in 15 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
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That's actually pretty cool Aztec. But I'm diggin the OG toyota T
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