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#15 | |
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A lot of people say its ok for a street car, but iv seen plenty of brake failure of Daily driven cars due to that fluid. Its not a bad fluid by all means, its awesome. But its use on regular street where you don't get up to good temps in the brake lines may cause wear. I wonder if even your calipers are broken at all with that fluid still inline. I suggest bleed the brakes and switch to a DOT3/DOT4 fluid, and not a racing fluid. But if you believe that the fluid is not the cause, then ignore my post.
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#16 |
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I have the caliper I took off today. Before I return it for core would I see anything of benefit by pulling out the piston and seeing what it looks like?
Is there any reason why the rear calipers would go bad from the fluid but not the fronts? |
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#17 |
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Brake bias makes you work the front brakes more, which loads it up and generates a bit more heat than the rears.
My guess, If it really is indeed the fluid, your not getting good pressure in the rears because your not reaching optimal fluid temps from load. AKA your fronts brakes doing more work than they should. Having unequal pressure for a long time could damage those rear calipers...
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#18 |
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Hmm, that is interesting, I didn't know fluid could cause these problems. The bottle says DOT4 and that it meets/exceeds/compatible with DOT3/4.
What is a good high temp street fluid then? |
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#19 | |
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Quote:
Your ATE Super Blue is rated at 536Degrees F, which makes your brakes run too cold for daily use. ATE Super Blue Racing Brake fluid is actually not officially DOT rated, but have similar qualities of DOT4 being a high temp and a polyethylene glycol base. The reason why it says compatible is because you can mix it with other brake fluids, ie; if you have DOT3 fluid in your system and your running low, you can add ATE Super Blue and it will slighty raise the boiling point but not degrade the quality of the fluid. So any over the counter DOT4 brake fluid at the store should suffice, and give you good performance.
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#20 |
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I guess I didn't know that Brake fluid had a minimum operating range as all the fluids only list maximum temps (well minimum boiling).
I will get this tomorrow then. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...entifier=21051 Thanks for the help, at least I learn this now and not on the brz/frs |
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#21 |
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Yeah, DOT3 is good enough for DD car
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#22 |
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Had same problem in my g20 sticky rear brakes changed pads, rotors, calipers turned out it was my brake master cylinder
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#23 |
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I alternate between ATE Super Blue and Typ 200 and haven't had any problems with them on the street.
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#24 | |
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I've used ATE Super Blue and Typ200 for almost 12 years, hundreds of thousands of miles, and a lot of Motul too. They are perfectly fine for street use and great for the track too.
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#25 | |
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Quote:
You could be completely right that the fluid is not the problem, and that all brake calipers works at any normal hydraulic temp. And i am completely wrong. But from my personal experiences It does make me question the validity and application of that fluid in certain situations or for right conditions. I can only give advice to others that iv seen and witnessed to do good, and not give harm to anyone. If its wrong, then no harm done.
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#26 |
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Between myself and the other 50-60 track guys I talk to often, no one has ever had any issues like that. I usually change to super blue within 1,000 miles on all of my cars (because that's about how long I own them before tracking them the first time). So just on two of my current cars that's about 275,000 miles of super blue usage
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#27 |
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ok... here's a question. What's the best procedure for changing out the brake fluid? Draining the master cylinder and refilling it with fluid of choice and then opening up the valves on the calipers to push through the new fluid?
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#28 |
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I never drain the MC res first, out of laziness. I just bleed it through the system.. again being lazy. Or use a vacula :P
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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