how bad is it for the e-brake to use it to start a drift...

[empower-auto]

Originally Posted by kanundrum

You should Only Use your Ebrake if you have your Hand Duct tapped to the steering wheel and drive an EG6

I lol'd

[YinYang1980]

i hate this kind of e-brake. i dont know why they just dont use the service brake to e-brake like the mazda protege5 2003.

[Pscylo]

And if you do start to wear and notice the "swing that ass" brake not being as functional and needs to be adjusted, the plug in the hole on the drum portion of the rotor can be removed and there is a gear there to adjust with a flat head. Or at least, thats where I have seen the ebrake adjust on other vehicles.

[driver01]

Originally Posted by Pscylo

And if you do start to wear and notice the "swing that ass" brake not being as functional and needs to be adjusted, the plug in the hole on the drum portion of the rotor can be removed and there is a gear there to adjust with a flat head. Or at least, thats where I have seen the ebrake adjust on other vehicles.

Thats correct. Basically remove the plug on the front face of the rotor. turn the rotor until the opening lines up with the adjuster and then using a flat screwdriver turn the adjuster until it locks up. then back it up around 6 clicks.
after this check your parking brake lever anywhere between 8 - 10 clicks to lock it should be all right.

[ill86]

Better methods should be used to initiate imo... The OEM "e-brake" setup should not be used other than it's intended purpose. Most, if not all ,OEM hand brakes will stretch and lose adjustment after so many pulls.. You can keep readjusting, but it is what it is.

I teach a variety of vehicle dynamics. Including forward 180s for evasive work, drifting and rally x. We would find that adjustments had to be made frequently.

There are aftermarket brake solutions for competition use. That being said, using the OEM hand brake isn't the end of the world, but don't expect it not to lose adjustment or fail entirely.

[track_warrior]

Why do you need an ebrake to initiate a drift, its easier in this car with a scandinavian flick so you can carry momentum.

[Moto-P]

Side Brake (parking or E brake) does wear faster with use while in motion, as it is designed to sustain a load while being parked. Chief Engineer knew this will be one of the necessary ingredients for a modern RWD sports car too but cost constraints for something as minor as this against trying to keep the main dynamics of the car, as well as $20,000+ price point didn't allow for a significant upgrade here.... But they did make it so that there is only increased wear, and not in terms of any harm done to the brakes themselves.

Keep in mind though, that ANY form of drifting is much more abusive on a ANY car, and that things do tend to break or wear quickly when used without care or much experience. Its the nature of any machine. And, this is why a dedicated Pro Drift car has many modifications costing thousands more to make it more effective and much more costly. But like any dedicated track machine, that is the nature of how things are done and made.

I would say for the FRS, the biggest risk is more in clutch kicks, as that tends to shock the driveline like the transmission, propeller and drive shafts, hubs and differntial gears. None of which are cheap at all to fix! For example, kicking the clutch by simple side stepping off it at dead stop, with engine at 4000rpm... will put in millisecond instance of driveline shock 18 times more than when gently engaging and powering a 500hp engine with the same flywheel. With stickier tires, on a grippy asphalt, this can even be greater. The same reason drag racing cars blow up gears and shafts all the time due to sticky drive tires, and really grippy VHT coated start line.

So it's in the driver, again, to use the clutch with enough skills to not load the system so much, and do it with diligent ears and eyes to monitor what's going on, and just as importantly, to gain the skills to maintain it accordingly.

This is why most guys who WANT to really cut the cost and increase driving time behind the wheel, do so in the beginning, on a cheap used car that can be disposed or repaired with ease and with less costs. There are no if and buts to this rule of thumb. The Scion FRS is a brand new car, and as such, there will not be any replacement parts sitting in a Junk Yard for a long time to come.

[Guff]

Moto San nailed it.


And as a few other people have said, get that flick going! I feel much more satisfied coming in with momentum and tossing that wheel around! It's not hard to get loose with the nannies off on those Primacies!

On a closed course, obviously. No street drifting! We don't need any more victims of the curse!

[Cabz-FT86]

Why use the e-brake.... This car is so easy to throw side ways. Take a corner in high revs in third gear as you start slowing into the corner, slam it in 2nd and the ass end will fly out faster than a hooker on a Saturday night!

Have I mentioned I love this car yet?

[ultra]

Scandinavian flick was working wonderfully for me today. Trick is to carry enough entry speed into the corner so you can just flick it in with the steering (and a brief throttle lift to shift the weight forward a bit).

I didn't even need to 'feint' much. Just cruise along in 2nd, dip the throttle & turn in aggressively and apply power & counter steer on the way out.

I'll admit that I did use the e brake a couple of times on some tighter corners but I did it pretty sparingly and in combination with the Scandinavian flick technique, just because a) I as experimenting and b) for the tighter corners & 180s I was entering a little slower & wanted to make sure that the rear broke loose.

I wouldn't bother clutch kicking this car under any circumstance for much the same reasons Moto-P pointed out. It's just not necessary (or worth the wear & tear) unless you're in a competition or something.



TL;DR - You totally don't need to go around ripping the e brake on this thing to drift it. The secret is sufficient entry speed, steering input & conserving momentum.

And of course, a safe place to practice.

[TouchMyHonda]

Lol at this thread hahahaha

[ebphoto]

e brake is generally used in higher speed drifting or to "correct angle" while drifting.
i generally feint or clutch kick... havent shift locked in this car yet.
i figured it wouldnt be as clutch kick inclined as the ae86... but i was wrong.

[bryanttttttta]

Ebrake game is strong. This is after 7 drifting sessions at the track.

[fitcious]

Originally Posted by Moto-P

Side Brake (parking or E brake) does wear faster with use while in motion, as it is designed to sustain a load while being parked. Chief Engineer knew this will be one of the necessary ingredients for a modern RWD sports car too but cost constraints for something as minor as this against trying to keep the main dynamics of the car, as well as $20,000+ price point didn't allow for a significant upgrade here.... But they did make it so that there is only increased wear, and not in terms of any harm done to the brakes themselves.

Keep in mind though, that ANY form of drifting is much more abusive on a ANY car, and that things do tend to break or wear quickly when used without care or much experience. Its the nature of any machine. And, this is why a dedicated Pro Drift car has many modifications costing thousands more to make it more effective and much more costly. But like any dedicated track machine, that is the nature of how things are done and made.

I would say for the FRS, the biggest risk is more in clutch kicks, as that tends to shock the driveline like the transmission, propeller and drive shafts, hubs and differntial gears. None of which are cheap at all to fix! For example, kicking the clutch by simple side stepping off it at dead stop, with engine at 4000rpm... will put in millisecond instance of driveline shock 18 times more than when gently engaging and powering a 500hp engine with the same flywheel. With stickier tires, on a grippy asphalt, this can even be greater. The same reason drag racing cars blow up gears and shafts all the time due to sticky drive tires, and really grippy VHT coated start line.

So it's in the driver, again, to use the clutch with enough skills to not load the system so much, and do it with diligent ears and eyes to monitor what's going on, and just as importantly, to gain the skills to maintain it accordingly.

This is why most guys who WANT to really cut the cost and increase driving time behind the wheel, do so in the beginning, on a cheap used car that can be disposed or repaired with ease and with less costs. There are no if and buts to this rule of thumb. The Scion FRS is a brand new car, and as such, there will not be any replacement parts sitting in a Junk Yard for a long time to come.

that's why i have an automatic..no kicking of the clutch to worry about.