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#477 |
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Mine just started popping at 6000 miles. I thought I was going to get lucky, but no. I'm going to try some WD-40 tonight. Hope it works, but what a half-assed problem to have. Oh well, first model year and all...
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#478 |
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the normal WD40 has barely any lubrication in them.. I would try something that would provide long term lubrication instead.
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#479 |
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Mine starting popping again in this cooler weather. Gonna try spray grease this time instead of WD40
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#480 |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to kodyo For This Useful Post: | Sigh-on-Rice (10-31-2013), sprintertrueno86 (10-31-2013) |
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#481 |
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#482 |
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I sprayed the driver's side just as shown in Sigh's picture, and it no longer pops. But now the passenger's side is doing it. Maybe it was all along, and I just noticed it on my side because it was closest. Gonna shoot the other side tonight.
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#483 |
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I had serious metal-metal or metal-plastic rattle near the rear deck. By driving with the rear seats down I've isolated the source to one of the seat latches. It was really annoying when driving on rough concrete. Today I decided I had enough of it and applied painter's tape to the leading edge of the metal loop. I applied one layer and the rattle was much subdued over rough concrete and pretty much gone on better roads. I will apply one more layer tomorrow.
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#484 |
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Rear Deck "popping/clicking/tapping/ticking" noise.
They have performed the same thing at my dealer but they used 3M... And for me, no difference...only my solution worked fine.
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#485 | |
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Quote:
I've only had one customer bring their car in for the rear shelf noise (although just about all of them have it). I followed Subaru's service bulletin, and it didn't fix the noise. I ended up doing pretty much exactly the procedure that you linked above, though I use motorcycle moly chain lube rather than lithium grease for sheet metal noises. |
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#486 |
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My rear deck/trunk was popping, so i tried the TSB procedure with the spray grease. improved it, but i still had some occasional popping noises. i did not want to center punch welds or pop welds with a screwdriver. i did the spray grease a 2nd time, but i also laid on my back inside the trunk and pushed up on the inside of the deck lid (where the popping noise is coming from), basically flexing the rear deck 'frame' with as much force as i could muster with both hands. since the popping only manifests itself when the body/chassis flexes, i figured i'd see if 'spot flexing'/'working it in' it would help.
when i pushed up, i could hear the welds/joints creaking as the metal flexed. after about a dozen hard pushes, the creaking stopped. i'm thinking that flexing it helped relieve some of the welds and maybe made the spray grease penetrate better. all my pops were gone, immediately after. it's been about a month and no pops have returned since i did that. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to shiumai For This Useful Post: | Sigh-on-Rice (12-05-2013) |
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#487 | |
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Quote:
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| The Following User Says Thank You to kodyo For This Useful Post: | shiumai (12-05-2013) |
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#488 | |
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Quote:
You aren't trying to break the welds, you're just trying to put some space between the sheet metal so the welding splatter isn't rubbing. |
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#489 | |
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Quote:
I posted a video of this specific noise to help with troubleshooting see below: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yhqykQWp8U"]Scion FRS & Subaru BRZ rear seat latch pop noise during car flex - YouTube[/ame] |
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#490 |
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If I'm idling crickets come up.. but if I'm driving the crickets go away and the deck rattling begins.
![]() I can't hear myself think anymore & I usually take long drives so I can think to myself. Is it too much to ask for to have a peaceful relaxing drive? Oh wait no, because racecar. I tried bending the metal tab a few inches before the weld openings.. so I guess it's time for some WD-40, or get creative and find cardboard to put in between welds :|
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