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Old 10-23-2018, 02:15 PM   #29
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Okay I think Chicago and Toronto have similar road surfaces so that sounds just about right. Good thing I kept my oem coils. I will try that and hope it works cause these are more than twice the price of my coilovers. I think I'll keep OEM top hats in the back only, cause the front doesn't give me issues, just the back. All I know about my current ones is that they're 5kg/mm in the front and 4 in the back.


What brand are they? Interesting, 5k front 4k rear... I have not installed mine yet, (literally just ordered the roller bearings) but mine have stiffer springs on the rear. 6k front 7k rear. The OEM springs are stiffer in the rear too. Don't know exactly how this will change your car, but it has.
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:18 PM   #30
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Yeah, that's pretty soft. That's actually around the same softness as the V3s. Though I suspect that the V3s will still ride better. They'll also survive Toronto winters if he decides to drive it in the winter.
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:23 PM   #31
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Yeah, that's pretty soft. That's actually around the same softness as the V3s. Though I suspect that the V3s will still ride better. They'll also survive Toronto winters if he decides to drive it in the winter.


They should ride better; they consistently get great reviews for aggressive street driving with some track use mixed in. And the Stainless bodies are nice too!


They were my first choice.
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:23 PM   #32
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What amount of camber are you running at the front? I honestly would recommend staying with OEM top hats up front too if you can get away with it. It will really help with the NVH.
Can't remember off the top. Like -2?
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:24 PM   #33
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Yeah, that's pretty soft. That's actually around the same softness as the V3s. Though I suspect that the V3s will still ride better. They'll also survive Toronto winters if he decides to drive it in the winter.
Oh yeah I've been driving in the winter. I have those ISC coilover socks
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:24 PM   #34
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What brand are they? Interesting, 5k front 4k rear... I have not installed mine yet, (literally just ordered the roller bearings) but mine have stiffer springs on the rear. 6k front 7k rear. The OEM springs are stiffer in the rear too. Don't know exactly how this will change your car, but it has.
Meisterr. Seemed a good choice at the time and at that price. And truth be told, they're not bad. Just obviously not up to our roads and not as good as a coilover twice the price
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:25 PM   #35
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Can't remember off the top. Like -2?
If you're at around -2, you should be able to achieve that without camber plates. The V3s have a pretty bit slot for the upper knuckle bolt. When I installed mine, I pushed my knuckle to "max camber" on the strut, and initially installed the camber plates at the "zero" setting before getting an alignment, and both front wheels were right around 2 degrees of camber in that configuration. I run more than that amount of camber, so that's why I have camber plates (autocross things), otherwise I too would run the stock front top hats for a bit less NVH.
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:27 PM   #36
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If you're at around -2, you should be able to achieve that without camber plates. The V3s have a pretty bit slot for the upper knuckle bolt. When I installed mine, I pushed my knuckle to "max camber" on the strut, and initially installed the camber plates at the "zero" setting before getting an alignment, and both front wheels were right around 2 degrees of camber in that configuration. I run more than that amount of camber, so that's why I have camber plates (autocross things), otherwise I too would run the stock front top hats for a bit less NVH.
Oh that's excellent then. Very good to know, thank you. Maybe I'll put them at the top of my wish list. Cause the more stuff I do to my car, the more inadequate the current ones seem
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:28 PM   #37
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I have those ISC coilover socks
So do I! Two salt-covered winters later and my coilovers still literally looked like new when I peeked underneath. That rust-looking stuff on top of the metal ring behind the bottom coil was some other gunk or something that flaked right off when I touched it.



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Old 10-23-2018, 02:31 PM   #38
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So do I! Two salt-covered winters later and my coilovers still literally looked like new when I peeked underneath. That rust-looking stuff on top of the metal ring behind the bottom coil was some other gunk or something that flaked right off when I touched it.
damn, good to know they actually work! I was wondering this whole time
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Old 10-23-2018, 11:37 PM   #39
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easiest thing would be to add more sidewall to your tire imo. if you're already on the newer springs and shocks.
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Old 10-24-2018, 12:35 AM   #40
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easiest thing would be to add more sidewall to your tire imo. if you're already on the newer springs and shocks.
I thought about this but don't know how high I should go. Currently I'm 225/40/18
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Old 10-24-2018, 08:25 AM   #41
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I thought about this but don't know how high I should go. Currently I'm 225/40/18
I run 225/50 R16 on the street and it helps the ride tremendously. I have 23mm extra sidewall over your 18's!

But, after reading what I think you want I'm not sure that's what you're really after. If you want a "tight" suspension, you could start adding more poly bushing gradually.

Can you do the work yourself? If not, I would imagine bushings would get expensive.
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Old 10-24-2018, 10:19 AM   #42
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I run 225/50 R16 on the street and it helps the ride tremendously. I have 23mm extra sidewall over your 18's!

But, after reading what I think you want I'm not sure that's what you're really after. If you want a "tight" suspension, you could start adding more poly bushing gradually.

Can you do the work yourself? If not, I would imagine bushings would get expensive.
yeah they're pretty expensive to install. I'm think poly would be too rigid, no?
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