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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#43 |
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Curious cat.
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It's not the size of your rotors & calipers that matter, it's all about the colour of the pad transfer and the condition of the disc surface.
Nothing says 'waste' like huge expensive brake kits and virgin rotors. It's the folks with an amazingly thick and even layer of pad material transfer on their rotors that get the nod of respect.
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2013 Toyota 86 GT M/T
2009 Renault Clio Sport R27 Team F1 Edition (sold) 1991 Mazda MX5 Miata (sold) 2007 Mitsubishi Evo 9 RS (sold) 2006 VW Golf R32 (sold) Last edited by ultra; 08-06-2012 at 05:11 PM. |
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#44 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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| The Following User Says Thank You to FT-86 SpeedFactory For This Useful Post: | track_warrior (08-05-2012) |
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#45 |
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Banned
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For those wondering....those ZX brakes are actually the same units as the Subaru (FHI) units, except for the mounting ears. You can find adapters if you try hard enough, though the Subaru units are really easy to source albeit a bit pricey (for no real upgrade aside from looks).
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#46 |
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Enjoy it, destroy it.
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Better brakes are a performance improvement. If the goal is purely enhanced cosmetics, just stop right there...
Start with pads that have better stopping power and get up to temp quickly so you can use them for a DD. SS brake lines will also improve braking feel. No need to invest in a bigger set of calipers just yet. |
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#47 | |
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Also, maybe someone with actual experience in doing this can chime in, but I figured that even IF there was a bias change, stopping in DD scenarios will be largely unaffected. |
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#48 |
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One problem with measuring pistons is where you are actually measuring. You can't just take a caliper to the exposed face of the "piston" underneath the pad. Oftentimes the actual piston diameter is different (within the actual bore) than what you see up top/exposed. Best way to measure is to actually remove the piston from the caliper. Especially if you are trying to accurately calculate brake bias.
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#49 | |
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Several people have done this upgrade with good results if I were to believe them. Since none of those people were on the standard issue 17" SE wheels, I didn't want to take the risk to find out. The Brembo rotors eliminated the shimmy when hot (and only when hot), so problem was solved half way. The other half was to pass the Camry down to the wifey.
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#50 | ||
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This mod sounds like a BAD idea to me. Basically, you'll engage ABS at much lower braking g's, and have to "push through" a fair amount more to fully utilize the rear brakes. Stock should already be a bit front-biased. Adding a ton more front bias? Bad idea... |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ZDan For This Useful Post: | dirk_diggler (08-06-2012) |
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#51 |
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And to continue what Dan is saying, the big problem is this type of "upgrade" feels great! You get serious nose dive from an overly front biased "upgrade" that you get from improperly biased components (leading to more brake torque up front). That serious nose dive is often interpreted as an improvement in braking. But its not! its usually just the opposite.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to der_rainman For This Useful Post: | dirk_diggler (08-06-2012) |
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