Plastic Modeling

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

You actually have one of them from what I saw in your IG. The R32 GT-R "Tuned" version. I was gonna get the matte black one since that seems to be the least expensive out of all the colors, and figured if I did do the sanding down method only, it would serve as a good "base" for the mica red. I contacted AutoArt and asked if they have plans to produce it in mica red, and was told no. haha

But then I never factored the hot glue gun and respirator masks at the very least of additional items I would have to buy to repaint. Hot glue gun since I know some of the plastic pieces will have to be broken off, and that respirator for 2k clear. I'd also have to get various grits of sand paper and blocks since I read diecast models have super thick layers of paint (I've ran out of sand paper).

You definitely don't need a hot glue gun. All the plastic parts are held in place by stubs so once you shave the stub off on the inside, you use a screwdriver to push them out. You do need a respirator and unfortunately paints like that plus the 2K clear require an airbrush, which requires a compressor and also a portable paint booth. Looking at about $500 here minimum. It would be much easier to ask someone to repaint it for you

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

You definitely don't need a hot glue gun. All the plastic parts are held in place by stubs so once you shave the stub off on the inside, you use a screwdriver to push them out. You do need a respirator and unfortunately paints like that plus the 2K clear require an airbrush, which requires a compressor and also a portable paint booth. Looking at about $500 here minimum. It would be much easier to ask someone to repaint it for you

You can get very good results with Tamiya spray cans. Takes a bit of practice but it is totally doable.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

You definitely don't need a hot glue gun. All the plastic parts are held in place by stubs so once you shave the stub off on the inside, you use a screwdriver to push them out. You do need a respirator and unfortunately paints like that plus the 2K clear require an airbrush, which requires a compressor and also a portable paint booth. Looking at about $500 here minimum. It would be much easier to ask someone to repaint it for you

2k clear can be had in a can.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-...tte-clear.html

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Well, decided to pull the trigger on these on Amazon:

-Tamiya R32 Nismo
-Tamiya Modeling Brush HF Standard Set 87067
-Tamiya 85039 Spray Lacquer TS-39 Mica Red - 100ml Spray Can
-Tamiya TS-13 Clear Spray Lacquer, TAM85013
-Tamiya TS-4 German Grey - 100ml Spray Can 85004
-Tamiya 10ML X-11 CHROME SILVER /item# R6SG5EB-48Q15143
-Tamiya 10ML XF-54 DARK SEA GREY /item# R6SG5EB-48Q11821
-Tamiya 10ML X-18 SEMI GLOSS BLACK /item# R6SG5EB-48Q15139
-Tamiya 10ML X-26 CLEAR ORANGE /item# R6SG5EB-48Q8783
-Tamiya X-27 Clear Red 80027
-Tamiya 87038 Extra Thin Cement Glue Fine Tip 40ml


I chose to omit some of the colors that I think were only used for one or two very small parts in the engine bay.


Edit: Ordered the Fujimi No.2 BBS LMs from Hobby Search. I think I'll have to find some gold paint for the faces.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Oh, and I got TS4 instead of XF63 since I think it'll be easier to spray the interior parts rather than brushing on the paint. I think I read that TS4 is also Flat German Gray despite it not being labelled "flat." Hoping 10ml is enough for the chrome silver.

Also hoping I can paint everything without the use of those piece holders/clamps.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Just realized I forgot to get primer. Was about to order the Tamiya Surface Primer in white, but the reviews say it isn't good and to stick with the gray primer. Knowing that I'll be painting the car mica red, do you guys advise trying to stick with the white, or can I go with the gray?

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

With red paint you may actually want to go with pink primer.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

With red paint you may actually want to go with pink primer.

Wow, the pink one costs way more than the white and the rest. Oh well, gotta pay if I want it to look nice . Also ordered Tamiya's Gold Leaf for the wheels.

Actually, it might make the Gold Leaf match the BBS gold more than if I used any other color primer.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

Well, decided to pull the trigger on these on Amazon:

-Tamiya R32 Nismo
-Tamiya Modeling Brush HF Standard Set 87067
-Tamiya 85039 Spray Lacquer TS-39 Mica Red - 100ml Spray Can
-Tamiya TS-13 Clear Spray Lacquer, TAM85013
-Tamiya TS-4 German Grey - 100ml Spray Can 85004
-Tamiya 10ML X-11 CHROME SILVER /item# R6SG5EB-48Q15143
-Tamiya 10ML XF-54 DARK SEA GREY /item# R6SG5EB-48Q11821
-Tamiya 10ML X-18 SEMI GLOSS BLACK /item# R6SG5EB-48Q15139
-Tamiya 10ML X-26 CLEAR ORANGE /item# R6SG5EB-48Q8783
-Tamiya X-27 Clear Red 80027
-Tamiya 87038 Extra Thin Cement Glue Fine Tip 40ml


I chose to omit some of the colors that I think were only used for one or two very small parts in the engine bay.


Edit: Ordered the Fujimi No.2 BBS LMs from Hobby Search. I think I'll have to find some gold paint for the faces.

Good choices. I still recommend picking up something cheap to do a practice run before committing to the expensive kit. If you have a hobby Lobby nearby just grab something using one of their coupons. You can usually get a nice older kit for around $10 to $15 with the coupons.


Gather up some different gauge of wire and thread so you can do all the plumbing and electrical systems. I focus on just what is going to be visible on the finished model but some take it all the way.
This one is supposed to look old and well used (like my actual car was) but you can do them pristine as well of course.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Good choices. I still recommend picking up something cheap to do a practice run before committing to the expensive kit. If you have a hobby Lobby nearby just grab something using one of their coupons. You can usually get a nice older kit for around $10 to $15 with the coupons.


Gather up some different gauge of wire and thread so you can do all the plumbing and electrical systems. I focus on just what is going to be visible on the finished model but some take it all the way.
This one is supposed to look old and well used (like my actual car was) but you can do them pristine as well of course.

I don't think I'll be doing the AutoArt anymore. Haha.

I was actually looking into making the engine bay look more realistic, but the Tamiya mold doesn't even have an ABS module, so making abd running brake lines wouldn't look good. Only other thing that I thought of was embossing powder for the interior (flocking doesn't look to scale imo).

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

I don't think I'll be doing the AutoArt anymore. Haha.

I was actually looking into making the engine bay look more realistic, but the Tamiya mold doesn't even have an ABS module, so making abd running brake lines wouldn't look good. Only other thing that I thought of was embossing powder for the interior (flocking doesn't look to scale imo).

For carpets I use liquid cement to soften the plastic up and then stipple it wit a stiff paintbrush. Just paint a pile on and let it set for a second or two then just use the brush to pull it up in in a regular pattern.
Also I use brushed on paint to simulate textures. The dash on this BRZ looks odd and sloppy in the picture but when seen through the windows on the model it looks just like the textured grey cover on the glove box. The brush strokes on the seats that look bad in the picture look more natural like the material on the real thing. A lot of modeling is fooling the eye with paint and simulated shadows.

[JD001]

Please can we see more shots of stuff that you guys are building.. I just can't believe the quality of the workpersonship! That's me being PC, I know it's incredible but I do have a PC side!

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

For carpets I use liquid cement to soften the plastic up and then stipple it wit a stiff paintbrush. Just paint a pile on and let it set for a second or two then just use the brush to pull it up in in a regular pattern.
Also I use brushed on paint to simulate textures. The dash on this BRZ looks odd and sloppy in the picture but when seen through the windows on the model it looks just like the textured grey cover on the glove box. The brush strokes on the seats that look bad in the picture look more natural like the material on the real thing. A lot of modeling is fooling the eye with paint and simulated shadows.

I think those methods would be beyond my expertise in scale modeling. I'll be happy enough if it comes out halfway decent on my part

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by JD001

Please can we see more shots of stuff that you guys are building.. I just can't believe the quality of the workpersonship! That's me being PC, I know it's incredible but I do have a PC side!

The sad part is that a lot of what looks great in real life looks like total crap in pictures.