AP Racing brake systems in development

[gramicci101]

Would it be acceptable to have the calipers powdercoated? Would that even solve the problem?

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

Would it be acceptable to have the calipers powdercoated? Would that even solve the problem?

Nope. You don't just randomly powdercoat calipers just for the sake of coating it. There are many variables involved with that process as well...

[JRitt]

One of our customers sent us a nice vid of him working over a large field of GT86's with our Sprint Kit. Check it out on our blog.

[ZionsWrath]

I ran XP10 at the track this weekend. On stock brakes and tires the backing plated turned black. On stock brakes and RE11A I turned the backing plate white.

On stock with XP10 I find the pedal is very firm and easy to use. On the AP sprint kit I find the initial bite to be non existent. The first bit of travel does nothing IMO. I got used to it thought and maybe it is a good thing because you can just stand on the brakes. Since the first bit doesn't do much it doesn't unsettle the car. Also to note the XP10 pads still have orange paint so they did not get hot at all.

Not sure what to conclude but I have a few thoughts. Maybe there is a little air in system, though I bled twice and it feels firm on street pads (carbotech 1521). Or overall the car and tires are not enough for this pad compound, maybe should try XP8. Or (most likely) I'm just slow and don't get enough heat into the brakes.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

Or (most likely) I'm just slow and don't get enough heat into the brakes.

If you were at Thunderbolt (just guessing), brakes don't get especially hot there anyway.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

I ran XP10 at the track this weekend. On stock brakes and tires the backing plated turned black. On stock brakes and RE11A I turned the backing plate white.

On stock with XP10 I find the pedal is very firm and easy to use. On the AP sprint kit I find the initial bite to be non existent. The first bit of travel does nothing IMO. I got used to it thought and maybe it is a good thing because you can just stand on the brakes. Since the first bit doesn't do much it doesn't unsettle the car. Also to note the XP10 pads still have orange paint so they did not get hot at all.

Not sure what to conclude but I have a few thoughts. Maybe there is a little air in system, though I bled twice and it feels firm on street pads (carbotech 1521). Or overall the car and tires are not enough for this pad compound, maybe should try XP8. Or (most likely) I'm just slow and don't get enough heat into the brakes.

Relatively speaking, you should have more bite. Did you bleed both the inside and outside of the fronts?

Do you know how hot the brake temps were front to rear?

[ZionsWrath]

Originally Posted by dradernh

If you were at Thunderbolt (just guessing), brakes don't get especially hot there anyway.

Yes I was at Thunderbolt. Silver BRZ #87 in group 2.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Relatively speaking, you should have more bite. Did you bleed both the inside and outside of the fronts?

Do you know how hot the brake temps were front to rear?

I bled them twice. First time air was left in system. Second time seemed good. I'm considering bleeding again before this weekend...

I don't know the temps, I don't have any way to check.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

Yes I was at Thunderbolt. Silver BRZ #87 in group 2.


I bled them twice. First time air was left in system. Second time seemed good. I'm considering bleeding again before this weekend...

I don't know the temps, I don't have any way to check.

Cheap harbor freight laser pyrometer will be good enough for this; we just want to check for rotor temps to approximate brake useage

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

I don't know the temps, I don't have any way to check.

AP makes thermal paint you can apply to your rotor. @JRitt sells it.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

AP makes thermal paint you can apply to your rotor. @JRitt sells it.

I've used AP's fluid and [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Genesis-Brake-Temp-Paint-fl/dp/B000UZEI6C"]Amazon.com: Genesis Brake Temp Paint - 1 fl. oz.: Automotive[/ame], and I found the Genesis fluid an easier product to work with.

[ZionsWrath]

Just bled my brakes again for good measure based on @CSG Mike post that I should have a good initial bite. Saw 3 small air bubbles from rear caliper. Didn't see any more air come out.

Also air sprayed any excess fluid out of the bleeder nipples and wiped off calipers to see if I find any more stray brake fluid.

Can't wait for this 3 day weekend at VIR to try them out some more

[philooo]

What the consensus on brake duct blowing on the rotor 'pad area' instead of the center ?
I understand it is not optimal, but is it something that should be avoided ?

Logically a large amount of air coming only on one side of the disc doesn't sound like a great idea for uniform wear.

Can anybody comment on that ? I have the APR brake kit and it seems like the Essex kit will play along with the kit without problem, but considering the oversized brake may not require any ducting, I am thinking about removing it all together.

anybody running the essex kit with some brake ducts ?

[Traktor]

Hi all this is my first post. I warped my front DBA 5000 rotor the other day at the track which got me thinking about a proper BBK upgrade, which brought me here.

Has anyone considered pairing the Essex kits with some of the GC8 WRX fixed 2 pots for the rears? These bolt on with a custom bracket. I played around with the brake bias calculator which showed that these calipers have the exact same brake torque as the stock FT86 ones.

As the Essex kits are designed to not alter the bias with the OEM rears, it would seem the wrx 2 pots would work with this kit without altering factory bias.

As the same rotor is used there would be no thermal advantage, but it doesn't appear as though this is needed on the FT86 rear. However, the calipers are alloy and would save a few lbs over stock, the fixed design would offer better feel, they would visually be a nice match for the front and the whole exercise would not be very expensive at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ajc209]

I have a setup with the subaru 2 pot rears and a custom ap fronts (similar bias to stock).

They work exactly the same as they have the same 38mm piston diameter.

the rear 2 pot give a bit better feel. I bought an old set and refurbished them myself with stainless steel pistons which is other advantage (less heat transfer than aluminium).

They are also light but bare in mind the kns bracket is steel...