What camber degree should I shoot for

[wparsons]

You should be able to get to -1.5* on the slotted struts with stock bolts.

[Lust]

Another recommendation since you have slotted struts and camber bolts, is to get most of your camber adjusted from the hubs to reduce the scrub radius.

[jamal]

If you have lower offset wheels, adding negative camber at the top mount will bring scrub back closer to zero. But increasing SAI is generally not a good thing.

Originally Posted by Dee

If I am wanting 1.5* front camber will I need camber bolts?

I would consider buying the oem crash bolts to bring to your alignment. When you put in the coilovers, push the top of the upright as far in the mounts as it will go and tighten down. It may be over -1.5 degrees and if so then you don't need to add the extra bolts. If it's less than -2 I say have him leave it as far as it will go while still being even left to right.

[churchx]

Oem crashbolts just like camberbolts are of smaller diameter (to allow some play for adjustment), so i don't think there is any advantage to using them sheering strength wise.

But proper eccentric camberbolts with lobe are much easier to fine-adjust and cost very cheap, so why not get them?
Imho oem crashbolts should be used only in case if one gets camberbolts for smaller diameter lower strut hole, so one can relocate "free" lower oem bolts to upper (larger diameter hole) for even more camber. Camberbolts also shouldn't be used in slotted strut holes (but i'm not sure if oem crashbolts should be used there either)

[jamal]

Personally I don't like fine adjusting with the smaller aftermarket camber bolts. The ones for the lower holes for example are only M12 and use a lower torque spec than oem. While it's normally not an issue, there is a small chance of them slipping, so with a set of those bolts I like to put them in the max position so the washer and cam are aligned against any potential force. Plus installing them properly can be a lot to ask for some alignment techs.

The oem bolts are still M14 and will just give a little more play with the already slotted struts. However those larger aftermarket bolts with the 14mm shaft and 16mm cam would be a good choice. I think you want SPC part 81280 for that. I suppose that would possibly be better as there's no slop between the bolt and upright.

In this case, going for -1.5 to -2 with the STs he probably won't need anything, but it will be nice to bring a set of bolts not installed to the alignment just in case. I'd pick spc 81280 or the oem 14mm bolts for the upper hole over the small ones (81260)

[churchx]

I'd just use bolts that were listed by manufacturer of those as ones meant for twins, Whiteline KCA416 & SPC 81305, for upper 16mm & lower 14mm holes.

[jamal]

SPC 81280 is the same as kca416 but you can get them at any parts store and they're usually cheaper. They're sold by ingalls, eibach, napa, etc, all under the same basic part number.

[guybo]

Originally Posted by jamal

Plus installing them properly can be a lot to ask for some alignment techs.

I run cambolts and I realize it's extra for an alignment tech to deal with. I meet the tech and slip the guy an extra $20 for the trouble. They max out the camber for me and do it right. Take care of him and let him know you are a person, not a ticket number.

[churchx]

guybo: If alignment is done from below of lifted car and one needs at same time also adjust toe i don't see how adjustment using cambolts is more work. You adjust camber, toe also changes .. each time crawl up for camberplates and then down for toe adjustment? Or employ two techs? Imho simpler just have two wrenches, one on camberbolt, another on toe and turn those nearby wrenches by looking readings on screen. Ease of camberplate adjustment .. imho is more usable for DIY in-place adjustment on track, not at alignment shop.