Urgent help needed please!

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Swoldier86

Okay that makes sense a little bit.

It doesn’t seem to have an issue with the cold or warm weather it’s about 35 degrees out right now and this morning it was warmer than that. Also it is in my garage so it’s probably around 50 degrees at all times in there. I know you aren’t saying the outside temp matter much just letting you know.

What makes you rule out the master cylinder though? Just curious and trying to learn.

As soon as I pull up on the clutch it starts working fine even if I go into neautral and try again it doesn’t really need any time to warm up. I’m just more curious on what rules out the master cylinder completely and is there a way for me to test the master cylinder.

I always though if it was the TOB then the clutch pedal would because stuff. It’s almost like the pedal has a lack of pressure pushing it back up to its original position like a spring or some fluid pressure or something.

The master is only applying pressure in one direction it is not a two directional hydraulic system. The return pressure is provided by the spring (in our case they are fingers). When you push it in it pushes against the fingers which pull the clutch disc away from the flywheel. When you let it back up those fingers push it back. Pulling up on the pedal doesn't increase the return pressure in any way.
What is happening is that the TOB is binding and the springs can not force it back. This means that there is a small amount of pressure remaining from the cylinder that they can't overcome. By lifting the pedal you release that pressure and the springs can push the TOB back where it belongs.





This is what happens if you wait too long:

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Swoldier86

No it has not made any noise or squealing at all. That’s why I am so hesitant to drop the tranny and burn my wallet lol. I just want to be sure before I do that.

What color is the fluid in your reservoir? Is it like healthy piss, or dark and opaque?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

ouch.

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Not gonna read back. Did the clutch, or does it now make any squealing or grinding noise?

Mine squealed for a while and then went totally silent for weeks until the big bang. Although the squeal is the common early identifier there is really nothing that says it has to make any noise. Every one of his symptoms are exactly what mine did just before it failed.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Swoldier86

How can I rule out he master cylinder being the issue?

How?

If you can pull the pedal up and drive on it all day fine, but it sticks initially, IT IS NOT THE MASTER CYLINDER.

If your MC went out you wouldn't even be able to push the Slave Cylinder at all.

MC only go bad when the seal/piston no longer allow you to apply hydraulic pressure to the slave cylinder.

[Swoldier86]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

What color is the fluid in your reservoir? Is it like healthy piss, or dark and opaque?

Well it was slight yellowish like pee. Now it’s is almost clear I just had it flushed about an hour ago at the dealership for $55. Lol

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Swoldier86

Well it was slight yellowish like pee. Now it’s is almost clear I just had it flushed about an hour ago at the dealership for $55. Lol

What gets me is the having to lift the pedal. Tell me more about that.

Can you describe what you mean by your pedal not going up as far as the new one?

[Swoldier86]

Originally Posted by mav1178

How?

If you can pull the pedal up and drive on it all day fine, but it sticks initially, IT IS NOT THE MASTER CYLINDER.

If your MC went out you wouldn't even be able to push the Slave Cylinder at all.

MC only go bad when the seal/piston no longer allow you to apply hydraulic pressure to the slave cylinder.

I watched a video on YouTube of how to test it. I clamped the hose connecting to the slave and then pressed the clutch in, it was a lot harder to press in but still went all of the way down without much effort and then the pedal did not return to the top position until I unclaimed the hose.

Is this how it should work?

Also my clutch is letting out at the very bottom close to the floor that is where it is engaging.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

What gets me is the having to lift the pedal. Tell me more about that.

Can you describe what you mean by your pedal not going up as far as the new one?

I had to lift the pedal when mine went. Why I think I had to lift it is explained above.

[Swoldier86]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

The master is only applying pressure in one direction it is not a two directional hydraulic system. The return pressure is provided by the spring (in our case they are fingers). When you push it in it pushes against the fingers which pull the clutch disc away from the flywheel. When you let it back up those fingers push it back. Pulling up on the pedal doesn't increase the return pressure in any way.
What is happening is that the TOB is binding and the springs can not force it back. This means that there is a small amount of pressure remaining from the cylinder that they can't overcome. By lifting the pedal you release that pressure and the springs can push the TOB back where it belongs.





This is what happens if you wait too long:

Sorry I can’t really reply like I want to or take the time to understand this because I am at the gym right now.

On a quick note you said it is not two directional. So when I clamped the hose connecting to the slave and then pressed the clutch in did it not return back to the top position until I lunclamoed the hose, those made me think that the fluid has some role in helping force the clutch back to the top position?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Swoldier86

I watched a video on YouTube of how to test it. I clamped the hose connecting to the slave and then pressed the clutch in, it was a lot harder to press in but still went all of the way down without much effort and then the pedal did not return to the top position until I unclaimed the hose.

Is this how it should work?

Also my clutch is letting out at the very bottom close to the floor that is where it is engaging.

By clamping the hose you did the same thing the TOB bearing is doing by preventing the springs from pushing the fluid back to the master. The SPRINGS create the return pressure not the master.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Swoldier86

I watched a video on YouTube of how to test it. I clamped the hose connecting to the slave and then pressed the clutch in, it was a lot harder to press in but still went all of the way down without much effort and then the pedal did not return to the top position until I unclaimed the hose.

Is this how it should work?

Also my clutch is letting out at the very bottom close to the floor that is where it is engaging.

This is beginning to sound like a front seal leak on the master but I'm skeptical because your fluid was so clean.

Yes, the part where it stays down until unclamped is normal.

Does the clutch disengage more if you push down the clutch pedal fast? Is there a difference between pushing it fast vs pushing it down really slowly?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Swoldier86

Sorry I can’t really reply like I want to or take the time to understand this because I am at the gym right now.

On a quick note you said it is not two directional. So when I clamped the hose connecting to the slave and then pressed the clutch in did it not return back to the top position until I lunclamoed the hose, those made me think that the fluid has some role in helping force the clutch back to the top position?

[Swoldier86]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

What gets me is the having to lift the pedal. Tell me more about that.

Can you describe what you mean by your pedal not going up as far as the new one?

So when it won’t go into gear, if I lift the pedal up with my foot it moves slightly up, maybe like an inch. Then after that once I press the clutch in it works fine.

When I say it doesn’t come up as far, the new car comes up what seems like twice as far as mine does at its fulle xtension even when I pull up on my pedal. Also the new car feels much much more crisp and firm than mine does. It almost felt like a two part clutch when pressing in on the new one I could actually feel the clutch engaging on mine it’s so soft and hard to even feel the engagement.

[Swoldier86]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

This is beginning to sound like a front seal leak on the master but I'm skeptical because your fluid was so clean.

Yes, the part where it stays down until unclamped is normal.

Does the clutch disengage more if you push down the clutch pedal fast? Is there a difference between pushing it fast vs pushing it down really slowly?

There seems to be no difference between fast and slow. If I try it over and over and over it will not work fast or slow. But as soon as I move it up about an inch it works fine the next Press.

Also the mechanic said that the fluid was very brown but to me it looked only slightly yellow.