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#141 |
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That looks very similar if not identical to the newer version of the sprocket (has the inverted cam angle notches). But it requires the newer ECU too. What year is your car?
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#142 |
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#143 |
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fabulous
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I think that's the original design, no? First were the notches. Then they switched to tabs.
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#144 |
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#145 |
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#146 | ||||
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Banned
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AFAIK all the ECU are same, ive replaced a few (or assisted people) used for example USA manual ecu in Australian Auto car, just flashed in correct Calibration to ECU. different years as well Yes their are different calibrations for auto/manual, different year cars. In the early cars their were several updates for example UAS manual cars original calid was 400C then &00C, 900C A00C, A01C B00C and B01C all those were factory "fixs" for rough idle, cam issues and Air con idle stability. I suspect the cam fix was just widening the tolerances for throwing the cel codes or less aggressive management . When you reflash or reset ecu (power off completely) it resets all CEL codes timers counters etc. the only time you would need a new ecu is if its got a physical problem like the cam sensor input is stuffed or the cam output signal is stuffed on the ecu. I don't understand the "burned in" issue people talk about I suspect its the ecu cam signal inputs or output channels that are damaged or faulty. Otherwise all you need to do is flash the correct or updated ecu calibration to same ECU. on a USA 2013 you want B01C manual or B01D auto, any of the earlier versions should be updated to those. |
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#147 |
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Is this issue more likely to arise in a turbo car vs NA? Dont have Error but i do have a 2013 FRS about to turbo and this is scaring me. Not a permanent solution for it it seems.
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#148 |
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So my issue came back a few weeks ago and due to the storms I've not had a chance to drive the car. Today I did a hard reset on the battery and then switched the position sensors (i swapped these back in Dec and it seems to have made the issue go away) back to the original banks, and the lights came back on quickly... So now back to the same issue. I may just try to order new position sensors and see if that makes this go away since swapping them before seems to have resolved the issue (for a little while). Ugh this damn thing is so frustrating to fix!!
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#149 |
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#150 | |
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Banned
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The ecu monitors the commaned position and the actual position of the cams if this differs too much or the actual position lags the commanded position by a certian time then the ecu will set one of these cam codes, or if it detects an issue with the sensors or actuators . Its not rearly a fault in the tune, more the tune showing up a fault that was already there |
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#151 | |
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You need to definitively isolate the problem, suggest you use the proceedures in the tsb. Else you will likey throw lots of money at this issue and not fix it. The first thing eould be to make sure your ecu calibration is the latest for your car, theor were some fixes in ecu firmware directly for this issue in 2013 and earlier cars |
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#152 | |
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So I’m thinking of getting new position sensor to see if it might work (relatively cheap). After that it’s a new ECM. Really don’t want to touch the sprockets because it’s super fucking expensive and I don’t think it’s necessary (car runs fine otherwise). We’ll see. Also it’s on latest file version. Last edited by Jamestl; 02-21-2018 at 09:41 AM. Reason: Forgor |
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#153 |
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Question for everyone - what’s the correct part number for the ECM? I seem to see conflicting posts about whether I need a later model ECM from various posts (on this issue and unrelated threads on switching ECMs). Thanks much!
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#154 | |
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Senior Member
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I have a 2013 BRZ and the dealer told me the latest part number was: 22765AC812 As per the B01C revision for the flash... I have no idea. If you find out, let me know, but I already replaced my ECM recently with that part. |
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