Official FT86Club 3D printing thread!

[spcmafia]

Any chance to replicate the wing risers from Drambeennie? Or something similar to it.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Takumi788

I am in awe of this tech. The fact that I can own a piece of equipment that does this for under 1k is just beyond me.

Awesome to hear. Not surprised by the issue with setup. I have a Creality printer and it took a lot of work to get it to print anything other than PLA. I ordered my scanner, pretty excited to be able to scan and import to solidworks or fusion. I was trying to get work to buy the creaform scanner but was told no, the 40K price tag was too steep

[Ashikabi]

Anyone got a lead on fender garnish replacements/covers? Vents or fins?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

Anyone got a lead on fender garnish replacements/covers? Vents or fins?

I have a set of TuRD knockoffs I am holding onto until I can get them scanned.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

I have a set of TuRD knockoffs I am holding onto until I can get them scanned.

Lemme know when you do please

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[CedN]

Trying to remove the old sway bar link ended up with me cutting them of with an angle grinder. How on earth did any engineer think that this is a good solution with the allen head rusting away quickly. Soo before putting new ones on i quickly designed this little protector cup with an internal m12x1,25 thread, to hopefully keep the rust away and i will be able to remove the links in the future

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by CedN

Trying to remove the old sway bar link ended up with me cutting them of with an angle grinder. How on earth did any engineer think that this is a good solution with the allen head rusting away quickly. Soo before putting new ones on i quickly designed this little protector cup with an internal m12x1,25 thread, to hopefully keep the rust away and i will be able to remove the links in the future

be sure to cover it in some sort of grease, as 3d prints are porous enough to encourage water retention instead of block it out

[CedN]

Originally Posted by soundman98

be sure to cover it in some sort of grease, as 3d prints are porous enough to encourage water retention instead of block it out

Thats the plan, i havent found my prints particularly susceptible to water permeation, so i think it will work great. It cant possibly be worse than what it was before, thats for sure

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by CedN

Thats the plan, i havent found my prints particularly susceptible to water permeation, so i think it will work great. It cant possibly be worse than what it was before, thats for sure

ford used to add little plastic push-in inserts to some of their hex-head bolts on the underside of their vehicles. i had some of those on my ranger. there was nothing left of the hex, as the combination of water intrusion, and the surface tension of plastic fins of the push-in insert holding the water-turned-sludge against the metal turned those 'bolts' into optimistically-threaded rivets...

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by CedN

Trying to remove the old sway bar link ended up with me cutting them of with an angle grinder. How on earth did any engineer think that this is a good solution with the allen head rusting away quickly. Soo before putting new ones on i quickly designed this little protector cup with an internal m12x1,25 thread, to hopefully keep the rust away and i will be able to remove the links in the future

Good concept. I'd grease up the threads before install though. So water doesn't sit in there

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[soundman98]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

Good concept. I'd grease up the threads before install though. So water doesn't sit in there

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good idea!!

[Spektyr]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

Good concept. I'd grease up the threads before install though. So water doesn't sit in there

Standard petroleum jelly is a fantastic water barrier. I use it all the time on extension cords outside (Christmas lights and so forth). Just stick a small dollop of jelly between the prongs of the male end of the cord, plug it into the female end - which smashes the dollop and squeezes it out the sides. Wipe the excess around the gap to fill everything in - done. Water can't get in and trip the breaker on that circuit.

Never had an issue in rain, snow, etc.

I'd use the same concept to seal up the space between the cover and the metal part inside - even if water gets into the plastic of the print which will happen no matter how much you think it doesn't - you simply can't notice the water spread so thin, it won't matter because that barrier of petroleum jelly will stop it cold.

I use it on car battery terminals in place of the "dielectric grease" if the new battery doesn't come with the little packet. Same stuff, really, provides an oxygen/water barrier to keep the terminals from corroding and shorting out.

[theom]

Replaced my front bumper cover. Now Im running no logo.

Super Nerdy question but, has anyone done the Star Trek logo "A" looking thing as a front badge?

Is there someone here that would do that for me?

Thanks,
theo


https://www.freepnglogos.com/images/...logo-3568.html

[Spektyr]

Interesting. Is the oval the same shape, or close enough we could fudge it without it being obvious? IIRC it's kind of stamped into the front bumper so you'd want to exactly fill the depression.

Then you could add the silver part of the logo undercut so it would fit above that inbuilt impression of the oval.

I've actually 3D printed the "combadge" that's essentially the same shape, using two parts so I could color print it in metallic PLA (which wouldn't work well on a car exterior - it lacks heat and UV tolerance for that application).

Just eyeballing it I'd say the Toyota logo is a bit rounder (vertical height is greater for the same horizontal width. But using the Toyota oval dimensions under the silver part of the logo should be close enough no one would notice without both versions side by side.