least grippy tires for drifting?

[QTR FMS]

Just looked them over. There's one at night from in the car, but I can't see what you're doing. The rest are right next to a loud speaker playing music at the event so I can't even hear the car.
those are the only videos i have , and the exhuast is stock after the headers so you wont really hear it even without music.

All of the clips are at Adam's, where you're initiating and then doing one transition.
yeah i first initiate at the starting line by powershifting to second while turning right then immediately transitioning to the left once i exit the turn i left off throttle .
until next turn i either ebrake or hold down the clutch while revving the engine and dump the clutch, and i stay on throttle until the big turn (after3 turns) where i either pull ebrake to extend the drift to make it or carry as much speed as possible to make it ,so then i have to slow for the last couple of turns, i can slow down by pulling the ebrake or ebrake and foot brake or throttle and foot brake.

i just learn to left foot properly and i want to do it without having the engine bogging down its fun and it looks better.

I didn't see any problems there, so I'm not sure what the issue is. Let me ask this.. why are you left foot braking? Or what are you trying to achieve by doing it?
there no issue with the car its perfect i just want more with less horsepower.

im using left foot braking to slow down while keeping the wheel spinning and maybe make some smoke.

Also, what is your suspension/alignment setup?
its already posted twice, and the damper from at 8 clicks from soft rear 6 from soft and this was the best setting i found.

[TylerLieberman]

Ok. First, please use quotes in your posts if you're replying. It's difficult to read your posts because you're merging other posts with your own, so it's hard to distinguish between what we've said and what you're saying.

With regards to your setup, ditch the R comps, immediately. There's no reason to run them on your setup. Something like Federal RSRRs, ZII SS, etc will be a much better option. You mentioned understeer before. I'd suggest adjusting tire pressure or try sway bar changes. Alignment change may help too depending on what you're running. Something around -3 to -4 front is good. Personally, I think deleting the front sway bar is one of the best changes to make to these cars for drifting. For the rear, don't worry about trying to get close to zero camber. I ran -1.5 and got even tire wear. Also make sure you aren't running any toe in on the rear. I imagine you've already done that though.

At Adams, there really isn't much of any reason to be left foot braking. Especially for a duration as long as 4 seconds. If you're having to do that, you messed up somewhere. Yes left foot braking allows you to slow down and keep wheel speed, but you need power to keep the wheel speed. These cars don't make a lot of power so every time you put your foot on that brake, the car is slowing down, regardless of wheel speed. You do it for 4 seconds and you're basically transitioning from drifting to a rolling burnout in 2nd gear. The fact that your car makes all of 160wtq means it's going to be difficult to keep the wheels spinning in 2nd gear when you've lost all of your momentum from left foot braking.

The other thing left foot braking can do is pull your line out, similar to using the handbrake, but not as dramatic. May be useful if you end up a bit too shallow and need to slightly pull your line back, in which case you can pulse the brake pedal once or twice. Holding it down for a long time, especially with a low powered car on a slow speed circuit isn't ideal though.

I rarely ever used left foot braking when I was just out on my own. If I was chasing in tandem, then yes I would use it more as it would allow me to make small changes to my position without pulling the handbrake or dropping out of the powerband. But even then, my inputs were pulses and modulated pressure; not 4 seconds of sustained braking. If I had done that, the lead car would be 10 lengths ahead of me by the time I got back on throttle.

Next you mentioned up shifting from 2nd to 3rd. At slower speeds with lower powered cars, weight management is king. Using your transitions to your advantage can help a lot. Some people will just upshift mid drift, and while it can be done, it's harder on lower powered cars. You'd have to basically be at the limiter and get a solid, quick shift to do it. Might even still need to kick the clutch to keep it going, depending on the circumstances.

Instead, try up shifting mid transition. The weight transfer from one direction to another makes it easier to keep the wheels spinning, as the balance of the car is still being thrown around. It takes some practice, but it helps. At Grange, that would probably be your best bet to utilize third. Your other two options would be to raise the rev limiter and just ride it out and link corners that way, or to switch to a higher final drive and shorten the gearing, making 3rd a lot easier to use. If you're having issues maintaining drift through transitions, you can try kicking the clutch on transition. That helps if you've lost some speed and need to change directions, but can't afford to lift off throttle.

I believe you also mentioned you run the PBM angle kit. It's a great kit, but it's beyond the limits of what your car is capable of in its current form. To hold big angle and maintain speed, you need to be able to keep up the wheel speed. If you go to a high slip angle but can't keep the wheel speed up, the car is going to bog and your line is going to tighten up dramatically. On N/A cars, the PBM kit is really only good for saving yourself from over rotating, or being really aggressive on initiation. Other than that, you don't have the power to really utilize it.

That being said, keep that in mind when trying to connect corners or drifting longer corners. Having more angle will actually play against you, as the car will not be able to maintain the wheel speed to keep you on your current trajectory. That being said, less is more. Save the big angle for extremely slow corners or when you drift in the wet and the lower power doesn't really make a difference.

A good drift car is about balance. Right now, your setup is very oddly matched. R comps up front with cheap tires in back with low power yet matched with an extensive angle kit. Add to the fact that you're almost trying to driving the car as if it has twice or three times the power it actually does and it's easy to see why the problems are arising.

It's all about momentum with the car, even in drifting. Practicing techniques like left foot braking and stuff are good, but remember that every input you make that slows the car's momentum down is just making it harder for yourself. Commitment will be key in improving with this car.

[QTR FMS]

Originally Posted by TylerLieberman

Ok. First, please use quotes in your posts if you're replying. It's difficult to read your posts because you're merging other posts with your own, so it's hard to distinguish between what we've said and what you're saying.

With regards to your setup, ditch the R comps, immediately. There's no reason to run them on your setup. Something like Federal RSRRs, ZII SS, etc will be a much better option. You mentioned understeer before. I'd suggest adjusting tire pressure or try sway bar changes. Alignment change may help too depending on what you're running. Something around -3 to -4 front is good. Personally, I think deleting the front sway bar is one of the best changes to make to these cars for drifting. For the rear, don't worry about trying to get close to zero camber. I ran -1.5 and got even tire wear. Also make sure you aren't running any toe in on the rear. I imagine you've already done that though.

At Adams, there really isn't much of any reason to be left foot braking. Especially for a duration as long as 4 seconds. If you're having to do that, you messed up somewhere. Yes left foot braking allows you to slow down and keep wheel speed, but you need power to keep the wheel speed. These cars don't make a lot of power so every time you put your foot on that brake, the car is slowing down, regardless of wheel speed. You do it for 4 seconds and you're basically transitioning from drifting to a rolling burnout in 2nd gear. The fact that your car makes all of 160wtq means it's going to be difficult to keep the wheels spinning in 2nd gear when you've lost all of your momentum from left foot braking.

The other thing left foot braking can do is pull your line out, similar to using the handbrake, but not as dramatic. May be useful if you end up a bit too shallow and need to slightly pull your line back, in which case you can pulse the brake pedal once or twice. Holding it down for a long time, especially with a low powered car on a slow speed circuit isn't ideal though.

I rarely ever used left foot braking when I was just out on my own. If I was chasing in tandem, then yes I would use it more as it would allow me to make small changes to my position without pulling the handbrake or dropping out of the powerband. But even then, my inputs were pulses and modulated pressure; not 4 seconds of sustained braking. If I had done that, the lead car would be 10 lengths ahead of me by the time I got back on throttle.

Next you mentioned up shifting from 2nd to 3rd. At slower speeds with lower powered cars, weight management is king. Using your transitions to your advantage can help a lot. Some people will just upshift mid drift, and while it can be done, it's harder on lower powered cars. You'd have to basically be at the limiter and get a solid, quick shift to do it. Might even still need to kick the clutch to keep it going, depending on the circumstances.

Instead, try up shifting mid transition. The weight transfer from one direction to another makes it easier to keep the wheels spinning, as the balance of the car is still being thrown around. It takes some practice, but it helps. At Grange, that would probably be your best bet to utilize third. Your other two options would be to raise the rev limiter and just ride it out and link corners that way, or to switch to a higher final drive and shorten the gearing, making 3rd a lot easier to use. If you're having issues maintaining drift through transitions, you can try kicking the clutch on transition. That helps if you've lost some speed and need to change directions, but can't afford to lift off throttle.

I believe you also mentioned you run the PBM angle kit. It's a great kit, but it's beyond the limits of what your car is capable of in its current form. To hold big angle and maintain speed, you need to be able to keep up the wheel speed. If you go to a high slip angle but can't keep the wheel speed up, the car is going to bog and your line is going to tighten up dramatically. On N/A cars, the PBM kit is really only good for saving yourself from over rotating, or being really aggressive on initiation. Other than that, you don't have the power to really utilize it.

That being said, keep that in mind when trying to connect corners or drifting longer corners. Having more angle will actually play against you, as the car will not be able to maintain the wheel speed to keep you on your current trajectory. That being said, less is more. Save the big angle for extremely slow corners or when you drift in the wet and the lower power doesn't really make a difference.

A good drift car is about balance. Right now, your setup is very oddly matched. R comps up front with cheap tires in back with low power yet matched with an extensive angle kit. Add to the fact that you're almost trying to driving the car as if it has twice or three times the power it actually does and it's easy to see why the problems are arising.

It's all about momentum with the car, even in drifting. Practicing techniques like left foot braking and stuff are good, but remember that every input you make that slows the car's momentum down is just making it harder for yourself. Commitment will be key in improving with this car.

sorry for some reason i cant use the qoute any more it gives me an error messages everytime i try to post , i might be wrong about calling federal rsr r-compound i know its semi slick which im not sure if that it mean its r-compound ? im using rsr not rsrr.

EDIT: it did work this time somehow.

[TylerLieberman]

Originally Posted by QTR FMS

sorry for some reason i cant use the qoute any more it gives me an error messages everytime i try to post , i might be wrong about calling federal rsr r-compound i know its semi slick which im not sure if that it mean its r-compound ? im using rsr not rsrr.

EDIT: it did work this time somehow.

RSR is not an R compound tire. RSRs are fine for up front.

[JazzleSAURUS]

Originally Posted by TylerLieberman

7: I don't know what it means for an ebrake to "misfire". Please explain. Furthermore, if you're running 60psi in stock like rear tires, there's zero reason to run a hydraulic handbrake. Don't believe ANYTHING TJ Hunt tells you.

FTFY

[Tcoat]

Found the answer!
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121629

[Thefear13]

It really comes down to how the car is set up. I have been going to Adams in my FRS for a while and haven't had any issues of breaking loose my tires(I'm running 18x9.5 in the rear).