Reliability mods?

[venturaII]

I'd still consider the NED oil cooler for tracking, even if you're N/A...it's not like the oil doesn't still get hot. Plus the water:oil configuration also helps bring cold oil up to operating temps quicker, which has it's own benefits in addition to keeping the oil temp from getting too high. The added bonuses of low price, ease of installation, and unobtrusiveness of the unit make it a real winner in my book.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by cjd

Isn't it a somewhat closed higher pressure system? That raises the boiling point...

Actually the opposite. PCV and intake breather are there to maintain a slight vacuum to keep the seals from weeping.

The old school test of the PCV valve is to lay a piece of paper across the oil filler hole on the valve cover. Valve is good if the paper doesn't blow off.

[venturaII]

I'd also consider a good coil separator/catch can to help keep things clean inside, long term.

[TylerLieberman]

Originally Posted by guybo

But for a regular DD it's worse for the engine to have one and run the oil too cold. If you do track it and you're NA, install a bypass on the oil cooler and only use it when needed.

Or just get a good, thermostatic oil cooler so it only operates when needed.

[new2subaru]

Gasoline is comprised of many solvents including toluene and benzene, which can be used as a paint thinner.

That is, when we had solvent based paints...

[Capt Spaulding]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Actually the opposite. PCV and intake breather are there to maintain a slight vacuum to keep the seals from weeping.

The old school test of the PCV valve is to lay a piece of paper across the oil filler hole on the valve cover. Valve is good if the paper doesn't blow off.

Good point. Going "back in the day" working on friends' drag cars, there was lots of experimentation with ways to cut crankcase pressures. The idea was to generate as much of a vacuum as possible with the goal of reducing windage losses.

For a while we tried using the collector on one of the headers as a venturi. We'd attach tubes of various sizes and orientations to the collector to use the passing exhaust gasses to generate negative pressures and run a crankcase vent to the tube inlet.

As to oil cooling, for DDing, I would stick with an oil/coolant type. It's more of an oil temperature regulator than an oil "cooler."

[venturaII]

Originally Posted by Capt Spaulding

As to oil cooling, for DDing, I would stick with an oil/coolant type. It's more of an oil temperature regulator than an oil "cooler."

+1 That's a good way to describe it.

[Shinigami301]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

So just how much water do you think gets in there? Where exactly does this massive quantity that needs to be "boiled off" come from? Where does it "boil off" to?

I'm sure you must know that a substantial amount of water vapor is produced as a combustion by-product- this condenses on cylinder walls in a cold engine and enters the crank case. Normally this is cleared from the crankcase once temperatures reach operating range.

In addition there is an amount of H2SO4 condensate that also forms, but doesn't boil off below 640F (so, never in a normal engine). That is handled by the buffers in the oil additive package.

[venturaII]

Originally Posted by Shinigami301

I'm sure you must know that a substantial amount of water vapor is produced as a combustion by-product- this condenses on cylinder walls in a cold engine and enters the crank case. Normally this is cleared from the crankcase once temperatures reach operating range.

In addition there is an amount of H2SO4 condensate that also forms, but doesn't boil off below 640F (so, never in a normal engine). That is handled by the buffers in the oil additive package.

The overwhelming majority of that vapor is burned up right in the combustion chamber, which is why you see it coming out the tailpipe on a cold day. The amount that actually reaches the crankcase is miniscule in comparison. Not to say there isn't any at all, but assuming you aren't driving the car like it's a mail truck, it's not a huge concern. And the NED cooler warms the oil even quicker than no cooler at all.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Shinigami301

I'm sure you must know that a substantial amount of water vapor is produced as a combustion by-product- this condenses on cylinder walls in a cold engine and enters the crank case. Normally this is cleared from the crankcase once temperatures reach operating range.

In addition there is an amount of H2SO4 condensate that also forms, but doesn't boil off below 640F (so, never in a normal engine). That is handled by the buffers in the oil additive package.

Define "Substantial".
There is no disputing that some water vapour condenses but this is making it sound like we are talking several liters vs the reality of a couple of milliliter's. Even in the most humid conditions there is only a very limited area for air in the cylinders and the tiny amount of condensate that can accumulate is almost a non factor as, since you said, it will evaporate when the engine reaches temperature. This whole train of comments is making it sound like there is gallons pouring in there and you need to super heat the oil to boil it out. Even below boiling there is enough heat and movement to create the energy required to evaporate the small amounts that are there. The engine needs to get rid of a very small amount of water not make a pot of tea.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by BigHugeFatGuy

FRS noob looking at a few mods, but my main concern is reliability.
Porsche has their IMS bearing issue, where the factory made a crappy part that tends to grenade without warning. The aftermarket solved the issue with a bearing that can go 100k+ miles, for not a lot of cash. Anything like that here?
I'm poking at the NED oil cooler, but looks like it's mainly needed for FI. I've ordered TRD springs, and I'm going to have the dealership eventually put in the rest of the TRD stuff (I actually like my dealer service dept, and want to show there's demand for FRS/BRZ/86 parts), but after that, no plans. It's a weekend/fun road car. 2,000 miles on it.
Anything I should upgrade/replace/add now for reliability? Keep "crickets" away, prevent oil leaks, etc.

Your best bet is to read the hell out of the tech sections here. The NED cooler will easily be overwhelmed if FI, or even NA at the track. Air to Water is much more effective and just get a thermostatic plate if the car is a daily. Even long-ish mountain drives can get the oil temps up pretty good in the twins.


If you are really worries about reaching proper temp in cooler weather throw it in 3rd for a freeway pull or just block it off with carboard lol

[venturaII]

Originally Posted by finch1750

Your best bet is to read the hell out of the tech sections here. The NED cooler will easily be overwhelmed if FI, or even NA at the track. Air to Water is much more effective and just get a thermostatic plate if the car is a daily. Even long-ish mountain drives can get the oil temps up pretty good in the twins.


If you are really worries about reaching proper temp in cooler weather throw it in 3rd for a freeway pull or just block it off with carboard lol

All that is true (though I question a bit a N/A motor's ability to overwhelm the NED/OEM cooler), but keep in mind you're also going to be nearly tripling the price of this mod to get the same DD flexibility.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by venturaII

All that is true (though I question a bit a N/A motor's ability to overwhelm the NED/OEM cooler), but keep in mind you're also going to be nearly tripling the price of this mod to get the same DD flexibility.

A local here tested it and still hit 250F+ n/a. Though it did stabalize the temps much faster when slowing. This was on a day where it was 90F out so could be climate dependant too

Basically if you drive hard enough to really beed a cooler the NED is a compromise at best. And if its just a daily then you probably dont even need the NED. But datalogging would answer all these Qs for OPs specific case

[cjd]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Actually the opposite. PCV and intake breather are there to maintain a slight vacuum to keep the seals from weeping.

The old school test of the PCV valve is to lay a piece of paper across the oil filler hole on the valve cover. Valve is good if the paper doesn't blow off.

I thought the cam timing required pressure. That makes it do both?

All I know is my espresso machine happily keeps water at 255F in one tank... And that helps me make delicious beverage. As long as it's in good working order. It's Italian, so needs attentive tlc now and again.

Which is to say... Enjoy the car. Fix it when it needs it, and when it is no longer providing more fun than you lose fixing... It's done.