2017 fa20 engine into 2013 car?

[D-VO]

Originally Posted by TheStig85

I've been contemplating doing a swap like this. Unsure of the year, but a newer motor into my '13 Chassis. Is the easiest route to buy a newer motor, say '19, with a '19 wiring harness, and '19 ECU?

Or will this give me issues with the immobilizer (can this be replaced or issues with the cluster)? Perhaps, do a '19 swap and splice new connectors on the existing '13 harness to connect to the '19 sensors?

I'm open to suggestions, but I'd like to do this sometime.

I looked into this; It ends up being WAY more expensive than I would like. And you would also have to reconfigure the immobilizer. Unless Ecutek has a parameter for it. I use ECUFlash and I don't see anything of that regard.

[CSG Mike]

Trying to drop a 17+ engine into a 13-16 is just not worth it!

[TheStig85]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Trying to drop a 17+ engine into a 13-16 is just not worth it!

Per our conversation a few weeks ago, what if your '13 motor blows. Wouldn't it make more sense to drop a '17 motor in over a '13-16 ?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by TheStig85

Per our conversation a few weeks ago, what if your '13 motor blows. Wouldn't it make more sense to drop a '17 motor in over a '13-16 ?

Not with the effort involved. Building a motor for a 13-16 with a 17 base is easy. Dropping a 17 motor into a 13-16 is not.

[solidsnake11]

Originally Posted by el-92

I also want to know that why were they changed.

They changed the trigger signals. Say the 17 falls when the 16 down wants a high. 16 down has a grove cut to trigger and the 17 plus has teeth. If I remember correctly.
I would assume the signal(wave) is inverted.

[HachirocksU]

Would rebuilding/strengthening an 13' engine be a good route to go to prevent potential engine failures especially when it's pushed hard?
If build the 13' with a 17 base would it be better/reliable?
With engine rebuild(s) will I pass smog/emissions?(I honestly don't know+in california) Thank you.

I'm really trying to keep this engine for as long as I can with the original car and have been contemplating on getting it done before any track use is considered although it is hailed to get seat time in as much as possible but if an engine blows it's seat time loss as well.

To LS/2J it I'd rather sell the car and get an A90(Which I'll get later down the road+still have FRS/or not for it) for that amount i'd spend on the FRS tbh but i'd love to/want to keep this car.

[solidsnake11]

Originally Posted by HachirocksU

Would rebuilding/strengthening an 13' engine be a good route to go to prevent potential engine failures especially when it's pushed hard?
If build the 13' with a 17 base would it be better/reliable?
With engine rebuild(s) will I pass smog/emissions?(I honestly don't know+in california) Thank you.

I'm really trying to keep this engine for as long as I can with the original car and have been contemplating on getting it done before any track use is considered although it is hailed to get seat time in as much as possible but if an engine blows it's seat time loss as well.

To LS/2J it I'd rather sell the car and get an A90(Which I'll get later down the road+still have FRS/or not for it) for that amount i'd spend on the FRS tbh but i'd love to/want to keep this car.

I know the valves and rockers are better on the 14 plus. The camshaft timing wheels are different on 17 plus. They changed the exhaust also for the 5hp gain along the way. That's about all I know of but I only have worked on mine which is a 13.

[D-VO]

Hey guys. So I've been getting a few messages in regard to whats to be done and the difficulty with swapping the engine properly. So I'm gonna answer here to the best of my memory:

Its really cut and dry, the only thing was I had to use the cam gears which I think needs the E16 or E12 torx socket, crank trigger wheel and all the sensors (Fuel pressure, coolant temp, crank sensor etc.) from the 13'. Apologies, but I don't have that info for the correct torx size right now because all my tools are in storage. I ended up purchasing a torx kit from O'Rielly's. Also had to keep the alternator and A/C compressor from the 13.

The only sensors I kept from the 2017 were the cam position sensors since they are more accurate. Being that you have to take the cam gears off, putting the timing chain back on was a bit of a hassle. But, as long as you do it right there is no worries. Lastly, I left my transmission mounted in the car so getting the engine back in was a little annoying because you have to get the alignment of the engine right along with the clutch and the transmission teeth. It was time consuming, about 16 - 20 hours working slow with hand tools, but I'd give it a 4 out of 10 difficutly.

[solidsnake11]

Originally Posted by D-VO

Its really cut and dry, the only thing was I had to use the cam gears which I think needs the E16 or E12 torx socket, crank trigger wheel and all the sensors.

Could you just change the trigger wheels instead of the sprockets and trigger wheels?

[D-VO]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Could you just change the trigger wheels instead of the sprockets and trigger wheels?

I wouldn't chance it because I'm not 100% certain. However, I had a Subaru technician directing me through most of it who told me I need to, so I trust him. It's something about the sensors that I inside the cam gears.

EDIT* okay just had a chance to talk to him again. He says;
Plastic manifold 17+ engines will bolt right up pnp but aluminum intake manual trans engines need to swap cam gears and trigger wheel. They send a completely different signal.

[senpai_gt86]

Looking to do a swap from my 2015. Anybody have any info on compatibility with the 17+? I’m sure it’s less plug and play but what would I have to swap? What issues would I run in to?

[Satanasso]

Originally Posted by ILLSMOQ

....

Ignition coils are different 2017 uses a 3 terminal connector 2013 uses a 2 terminal connector

anyone know the code of the new connector?

can't find it , only shops that sell the whole connector without any codes...
i'm interested on the connector type...

[D-VO]

Originally Posted by Satanasso

anyone know the code of the new connector?

can't find it , only shops that sell the whole connector without any codes...
i'm interested on the connector type...

You're supposed to be keeping the 2013 harness.

[mauly]

I recently installed a 2017 A/T engine (black manifold) into my 2016 a/t brz. I transferred every single sensor and the complete wiring harness from my 2016 engine, to my new 2017 engine. The car starts and runs okay for a minute but then gives me P0011 and P0021 CEL (timing over advanced) Do i need a different tune for the 2017 engine to run correctly?