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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#15 |
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Brake fluid should be completely flushed and replaced every two to three years maximum. If you live where the air is dry you can possibly go three years. Two years is the most common interval. If you track your car regularly you should be flushing brake fluid pretty frequently.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Gforce For This Useful Post: | wparsons (05-11-2017) |
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#16 | |
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Quote:
And, unless your GF has a JCW Mini, the rotors are the same size as ours or smaller.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to wparsons For This Useful Post: | strat61caster (05-11-2017) |
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#17 |
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Have you tried pushing the brake pedal harder?
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Turdinator For This Useful Post: | wparsons (05-12-2017) |
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#18 |
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I'm running the PMu HC+800 on all-season Toyos. The fronts are nearing the end of their lives but the rears are still good. I need front rotors as well so I'll probably get Centric premiums and try some different front pads. With my setup I can engage ABS so the pads have enough power for the Toyos but what I don't like is the somewhat low inital bite and they squeal at very low speeds/light braking. The dust isn't a huge deal for me. I bought the car with the pads on them and tried re-bedding them with about a dozen back to back 80-20 hard stops and while the noise went away for a while, it eventually came back from daily driving. I'll be autocrossing with them on Sunday for the first time in this car so I'll report back with my experience. Fresh ATE Typ200 bleed.
Any pad good value pad recommendations? Considering Hawk HPS 5.0. |
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#19 |
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I found the initial bite on the DS2500's better than stock, but not anywhere near as good as my club racer's when they're up to temp (they're barely as good as stock when totally cold). The club racer's are like glue when hot!
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