Another V8 Swap

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by all4spl

Thanks buddy Also looking at that picture, why no oil pressure sensor? I know with my corvette, it will go into limp mode / wont start without oil pressure, temp, and level sensors.

Is that what goes in that big plug?? Would correlate with the Plug that isn't labeled on the harness right there. I'll check to see if they just left it off and put it in the box, or if I need to get one ordered. Thanks!

Edit: Seems that it can be optional. Plug is there, but sensor is not. I will go ahead and get one and install it, but should be fine without it. I may just install my aftermarket gauge into the port.

Also got to thinking about alternator wiring. Do I need to tie in the alternator wiring into the factory harness? or is that something that shouldn't really matter.

[all4spl]

When you mean wiring, which wiring are you referring to?

[DustinS]

Plug coming off the Alternator into the GM harness. Is that something that needs to be tied into the factory alternator plug somehow, or doesn't really matter. May be controlled by can bus module. Asking before I try and tackle getting everything set-up.

[all4spl]

That should go to gm ecu

[cf6mech]

Originally Posted by DustinS

I thought they were talking about not needing to clearance it for the sway bar. What they mean is you don't need to notch it for the steering rack. The pan still hit sits on the sway bar. So no matter what exhaust you run - Vorshlag or not - you cannot run a sway bar with these mounts.

They notched it before they moved the engine back another inch, they scrapped the proto type engine mounts and made a new complete set of engine mounts......Terry wanted the engine as far as it could possible go aft and still retain HVAC.....it cost them but they found another inch and it was very important to them to do so......btw I have driven my car all this time with no reverse lock out connected and it hasn't really been an issue.....I have driven it hard......on the Magnum XL it takes considerable force to get it in reverse.....like way more than any other car or for that matter truck I have ever owned.

[cf6mech]

It seems your missing a lot of information on their build thread, like what needs to come out of the trans tunnel , the reason for the notches and other things......read it carefully......and frequently.

[cf6mech]

Originally Posted by MRS-Colin

ABS module is the other termination point for the CAN bus (ECU being the other). A bunch of nothing will work if the CAN bus isn't properly terminated.

Not so ! ......I can prove it!.....haha!

[Zer0]

Originally Posted by cf6mech

Not so ! ......I can prove it!.....haha!

Hey Is been a while. Could you elaborate in a pm or on your build thread I don't want to end up doing this but I'm very interested in what you have done with your can bus system

[cf6mech]

Originally Posted by Zer0

Hey Is been a while. Could you elaborate in a pm or on your build thread I don't want to end up doing this but I'm very interested in what you have done with your can bus system

Kind of an inside Joke between Collin and I,... I got a unique situation that him and I still need to fix, ....yes sorry Dustin for the thread jack.

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by cf6mech

It seems your missing a lot of information on their build thread, like what needs to come out of the trans tunnel , the reason for the notches and other things......read it carefully......and frequently.

I have read it quite a few times. Not to mention looked through their entire photo album for the swap. A lot of what is required hasn't been posted. I mis-understood the notching the pan thing as I though they notched it for sway bar fitment. When I went back through, I noticed it was for steering rack.

[MRS-Colin]

Originally Posted by cf6mech

Kind of an inside Joke between Collin and I,... I got a unique situation that him and I still need to fix, ....yes sorry Dustin for the thread jack.

I wired Rick's car in such a way it essentially needs a 31 ohm resistor in the DLC. This is 100% unintended and will be fixed when rick gets the time to swap the wiring over to the newer setup

[Zer0]

Originally Posted by MRS-Colin

I wired Rick's car in such a way it essentially needs a 31 ohm resistor in the DLC. This is 100% unintended and will be fixed when rick gets the time to swap the wiring over to the newer setup

Nice hopefully I can get my set-up hooked up by you to run the power steering.

[DustinS]

Terrible Rain and storms this weekend. A lot of flooding. So not much progress, and by that I mean I put the wiring harness through a hole in the firewall. Weather looks really good this week. So hopefully everything progresses nicely. I will also have an update on the rywire master cylinder adapter.

[all4spl]

Originally Posted by cf6mech

They notched it before they moved the engine back another inch, they scrapped the proto type engine mounts and made a new complete set of engine mounts......Terry wanted the engine as far as it could possible go aft and still retain HVAC.....it cost them but they found another inch and it was very important to them to do so......btw I have driven my car all this time with no reverse lock out connected and it hasn't really been an issue.....I have driven it hard......on the Magnum XL it takes considerable force to get it in reverse.....like way more than any other car or for that matter truck I have ever owned.

This is most likely because of the reverse lockout not being connected. When it is setup properly, it will allow you to go into reverse when the car is not moving as the solenoid is energized to allow it to move. essentially, if the solenoid never gets power, you're forcing it to move which equates to the "shifting into reverse being so hard"