Lowering my car

[FNCrazy]

Originally Posted by jawn

As in the dozens of other threads on this topic, you should get camber bolts for the front and add some negative camber.

I'll look in to that, but that's where my ADD starts... Camber and such things. I mean, I know what it is, but how the heck do I decide how much??

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[jawn]

Originally Posted by FNCrazy

I'll look in to that, but that's where my ADD starts... Camber and such things. I mean, I know what it is, but how the heck do I decide how much??

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Realistically speaking, you'd like more negative camber in the front than in the rear. How much depends on your tire wear patterns, but you can go up to -2.5 to -3 without a real effect on tire wear. With 1 set of camber bolts, you should see around -1 to -1.5 degrees of camber.

[FNCrazy]

Thanks!

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[Silver Cervy]

As I said before, the car is a lot more planted on the road. I don't feel any swaying on the turn-in like I did before, and I find myself staying on the throttle during moments where before I would've feathered it.

You can only go so far with springs, though. My primary goal with them was to reduce the wheel gap which was accomplished, the improved handling was an extra perk. If you really want better handling you would need to go into further suspension mods like sway bars and strut braces, and wider wheels are a must.

[Silver Cervy]

Originally Posted by jawn

As in the dozens of other threads on this topic, you should get camber bolts for the front and add some negative camber.

I really don't see the point in doing anything to the stock wheels. Imo new wheels are pretty much a required mod for this car so you would probably wait to adjust camber until after you replace them. And get coilovers too.

[FNCrazy]

Definitely going for lowering that gap. If I ever decide to put it on the track, then I'll be getting some coilovers!

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[8R6]

Originally Posted by Silver Cervy

As I said before, the car is a lot more planted on the road. I don't feel any swaying on the turn-in like I did before, and I find myself staying on the throttle during moments where before I would've feathered it.

You can only go so far with springs, though. My primary goal with them was to reduce the wheel gap which was accomplished, the improved handling was an extra perk. If you really want better handling you would need to go into further suspension mods like sway bars and strut braces, and wider wheels are a must.

for "better handling," wider wheels (which im guessing you mean to take wider tires) i think are overrated and misunderstood. aside from the looks-factor, which then i do agree they look way better than stock, tire compound matters more than tire width.

a sticky 225 width tire will outperform a less-sticky 245 width tire.

[Vital]

If you want safe springs that work well with stock struts/shocks just go with Hotchkis, RCE Yellow, TRD, Swift Sport springs or Eibach pro-kits.

[choiboie]

Originally Posted by Vital

If you want safe springs that work well with stock struts/shocks just go with Hotchkis, RCE Yellow, TRD, Swift Sport springs or Eibach pro-kits.

U can't go wrong with any of those lowering springs.

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[Silver Cervy]

Originally Posted by 8R6

for "better handling," wider wheels (which im guessing you mean to take wider tires) i think are overrated and misunderstood. aside from the looks-factor, which then i do agree they look way better than stock, tire compound matters more than tire width.

a sticky 225 width tire will outperform a less-sticky 245 width tire.

Well obviously stickiness matters. I'm talking about if the tire were the same compound, more width gives better grip. I would rather go with less sticky wider tires though just for the looks.

[choiboie]

Originally Posted by Silver Cervy

Well obviously stickiness matters. I'm talking about if the tire were the same compound, more width gives better grip. I would rather go with less sticky wider tires though just for the looks.

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