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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#15 | |
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Ned flanders
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: 13 BRZ, 16 Hellcat, 22 Ram 2500
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Quote:
And SPL toe arm w lock outs. Also as for the driver mod thing. this isn't anything to do with when I launch as its not really bad if I launch the car. Its mainly if I floor it in first, and start spinning. or If I do a burnout. Which these are things I can live with out doing. Spinning doesn't bother me as it satisfies me and makes me feel like my car has 10000 hp. Its just the hopping that I would be able to live with out.
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#16 |
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Ned flanders
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Yes I had the active autowerke brace on my Supercharged M3. helped alot also from what I understand took off a lot of stress on the center diff bolt.
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#17 |
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Ned flanders
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was looking into doing these. Saw a friend on facebook posting these and some werid looking brace that I cant find anywhere and say goodbye wheel hop. lol
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=W63414
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#18 | |
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Panda Trueno
Join Date: Jan 2015
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Differential brace. Several manufacturers make them for the twins. |
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#19 |
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Ned flanders
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No it went from the lower control arm area to the trailing arm, I think its the cusco one I just found. I don't believe the differential brace works when you are running diff bushing inserts.
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#20 |
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Panda Trueno
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#21 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Drives: 84 CJ7, 08 Duramax, 2014 FRS
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This thread ever get sorted?
I know mine is the rear diff bushings. Added some whiteline bits, but the bushings that bolt to the rear of the diff housings are my problem with wheel hop. Added the Whiteline bushing inserts here, and it helped, but it's still there. People think the tire is doing it, it's not, it's those bushings getting wound up and kicking back. Mine gets in a harmonic sometimes without ever breaking loose if I have to use the clutch too much at parking lot speeds. Never an issue before I boosted the car. I'm trying to understand if I should try some 70 Durometer bushings from RallySportDirect or try a Cucso brace. Input on either would be helpful. For reference, I changed engine mounts as well and tried TorqueSolution. They're great, but too much NVH for my commuter. Just swapped out to group N STI mounts from RallySportDirect, NVH gone. More movement you can really feel in the throttle press/ift comparatively. But still much better than stock mounts and no NVH. Now I'm going after the rear end since the inserts aren't a 100% fix. But I really don't want to overshoot like I did with the engine mounts. I think I saw group N rear diff bushings or STI rear bushings, not sure. Probably a Japan order. I've seen 70 Durometer bushings on Rally site. But that feels too close to the TorqueSolution engine mounts, which were 75 durometer. And I don't want to overshoot again. |
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#22 |
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Purist
Join Date: Oct 2016
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Why has nobody mentioned Trailing Arm bushings. The thrust of the wheel goes straight through the trailing arm. Allowing it to move forward and backward.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Westen86 For This Useful Post: | jeepmor (04-30-2022) |
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#23 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
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I agree, but the deflection of the rear diff mounted bushings is very noticeable. I have an MCA traction mod to go on still. I'll do this before I put more bushings in. It'll lower that trailing arm a bit and may help. Gets good feedback and claims to help with traction too.
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