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#85 | |
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Quote:
After reading this thread and following most of the links I am afraid that a lot of people are putting themselves and their cars at RISK. Just because something works once, twice or a dozen times does not make it safe. The seam weld is not meant to support the car. As far as I can deduce the actual jack point is INSIDE of the seam. If you look at the OEM jack you will see that the slot in the top is deeper than the height of the seam - no load on the seam when supporting the car. You will also see that the slot in the OEM jack is offset. When in place notice that the outer (narrower) part of the pad does not contact the car. All of the weight of the car is resting on the inner (wider) part of the pad. @DrDruquette I would suggest a modification to your design, the slot should be offset and the cheek on the inside of the seam should be at least 1 inch wide. The center of the larger cheek should be on the center-line of the jackstand. Malcolm |
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#86 |
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Safety is top one priority when I work under car. Big brand name (better quality control) and good design jackstands is all I want. I use BAL for my main jackstands. Take a look its pin design. Its more secured when you lift up jackstands. And a rubber pad on the top is for pinch welds like our car but its sell separately. For ratchet handle type jackstands, I use them as backup one. So I always have 8 jackstands to support car when I go under it. Plus floor jack and OEM jack.
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#87 |
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I jacked my car up on the wrong jacking point in the rear, could i have damaged anything?
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#88 |
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#89 |
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Exactly where the jack is just on the black part before it
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#90 |
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Are there any issues with jacking the car up from either side of the pinched welds? Are they strong enough to support the weight of itself? Just asking because I need to jack the car up from the side and then transfer it to a jack stand. But because the jack stand will be taking the weight of the car on the pinch welds, I need to jack the car up from another point but my jack isn't long enough to reach the front jacking point.
I hope this made sense!
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#91 |
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I made this out a rubber sanding block I bought at Harbor Freight. I still have to cut out the knotch for the pinch welds.
The jackstand is also from Harbor Freight. ![]() 2014 6-speed Monogram (37J) |
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#92 |
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Ok so my little mod did not last long but that is ok because I came across these are Harbor Freight. I believe they were $6.99 for a pair.
![]() ![]() projekt zeal86 build |
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#93 |
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for those of you who are cheap and worried about messing up your pinch welds, look for an old pair of rubber slippers, cut to the appropriate size, put it between the weld and jack stand. Done.
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#94 | |
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#95 | |
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Ridge Racerrrrrrrrr
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#97 | |
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Quote:
__________________
Education is important but racecar is importanter
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#98 |
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I have used jacks and jack stands for years, but never before had fully supported a car at all four pinch-weld locations to get under it for a major project. Many of the comments in this DIY thread were very helpful.
I ended up going with the Esco 5"-wide flat-top style jack stands, and used the "slit-in-the-hockey-puck" method to protect the pinch welds (image attached). The car was super solid during the whole job with no damage to the pinch welds. Here's a link to the jack stands I used: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019JVIPM"]Amazon.com: ESCO Jack Stand - 3-Ton Capacity, Model# 10498: Industrial & Scientific[/ame] Thanks to Phaedrus29 for the recommendation on this monster jack from Harbor Freight ... weighs a ton, but it's solid and lifts 23" high: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-68050.html |
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