KPower Industries K24 swap

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by ML

My k24 is at my engine builder and he opened it up to find the #4 piston ringland was cracked. At my last event it was smoking enough to get black flagged, but still ran fine so this would explain that. He also said the main bearing had a bit of scoring. Motor had 140k miles on it when I got it and I only replaced the timing components and oil pump. If I had to guess to a cause probably knocking which was probably from 140f intake temps at points, but if I remember correctly it always smoked a little bit since I first got it. oh well, forged pistons, rods, cams, valves, valve springs, guides, seals and all going in it now with 9.5 compression and 500hp goals. Just pray I don't have the built k curse...

Pump gas?

[ML]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Pump gas?

last year? yes. In the future? yes but will do meth injection if I have to.

[RedReplicant]

Might be worth switching to a Bosch knock sensor, the stock ones are kinda useless

I think you can put together the weird adapter bolt, sensor, and pigtail for like $40 if you search around for oem part numbers rather than paying for the named Bosch sensor. Reuse the existing knock sensor wire for signal and sensor ground for the other wire.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Same Dynapack dyno, original back in May. 205whp. Made 202whp on a Dynojet in NASA config after this.




Original chart is overlaid to see the difference.

Changes are Drag Cartel DICs and a Bosch 74mm TB, maybe 10-15f ambient difference. 230whp.

I was honestly expecting 215whp or so, best case. Pump 91.

Also made two flat tune maps for 205whp and 200whp. Pretty fat ~2000-2200 rpm power table top.

That's freakin awesome. You basically made more power EVERYWHERE which is a huge achievement. Those DICs are good for ~10whp gain or so from what I have seen, but you gained 25whp, so seems like the Bosch TB net you 10whp? (then the other 5whp from the weather change...?)

[ML]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Might be worth switching to a Bosch knock sensor, the stock ones are kinda useless

I think you can put together the weird adapter bolt, sensor, and pigtail for like $40 if you search around for oem part numbers rather than paying for the named Bosch sensor. Reuse the existing knock sensor wire for signal and sensor ground for the other wire.

Yeah I have one, couldn't get it to work either

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

That's freakin awesome. You basically made more power EVERYWHERE which is a huge achievement. Those DICs are good for ~10whp gain or so from what I have seen, but you gained 25whp, so seems like the Bosch TB net you 10whp? (then the other 5whp from the weather change...?)

I'm not entirely sure what it was, I wish I'd dyno'd just the TB back to back.

Originally Posted by ML

Yeah I have one, couldn't get it to work either

That is ... strange.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

I'm not entirely sure what it was, I wish I'd dyno'd just the TB back to back.....

I'ma ask my tuner if he can do this for me and will report the results.

[funkjaw]

Not sure if this is a twin problem, a kswap problem, or a me problem - but when I shift at high RPMs say 7k+ especially in higher gears 3rd+ the clutch pedal often loses a lot of it's travel. For instance one time shifting at 8k from 5th-6th when I pressed the clutch pedal in it refused to come off the floor and I had to physically lift it up with my foot then press it back down to make the shift (similar to bleeding a clutch). In all other scenarios such as just cruising around and and keeping the RPMs in normal range the clutch pedal does not have this issue.

Any thoughts?

Clutch is Action Clutch stage 2
https://actionclutch.com/products/st...2013-2016-2-0l

Clutch master and slave are OEM

Fluid is Motul RB600

Flywheel is the Kpower race version

With Verus clutch fork

[captain awesome]

Sounds like a failing slave cylinder to me?

[sfruski]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

Not sure if this is a twin problem, a kswap problem, or a me problem - but when I shift at high RPMs say 7k+ especially in higher gears 3rd+ the clutch pedal often loses a lot of it's travel. For instance one time shifting at 8k from 5th-6th when I pressed the clutch pedal in it refused to come off the floor and I had to physically lift it up with my foot then press it back down to make the shift (similar to bleeding a clutch). In all other scenarios such as just cruising around and and keeping the RPMs in normal range the clutch pedal does not have this issue.

Any thoughts?

Clutch is Action Clutch stage 2
https://actionclutch.com/products/st...2013-2016-2-0l

Clutch master and slave are OEM

Fluid is Motul RB600

Flywheel is the Kpower race version

With Verus clutch fork

(Twin Problem) Try overfilling your clutch fluid reservoir. A previous issue I had with high RPM downshifts: Even at the full line, air would get in under hard braking and shifting. Once I overfilled the resevoir, the issue went away. I discovered this after had already put in a new master, slave and repeated fluid changes.

[RedReplicant]

Been dealing with intermittent fueling issues for a while, suddenly got a lot worse today when prepping the car for the classing dyno / events this fri-sun.

MAP was reading wonky, wiggle plug and it goes crazy. Pull on the wires to make sure they're seated and one came right off.




Seems like it was barely holding on this whole time.

Also, sat on the phone with Haltech Australia for about an hour and a half tonight - the push button to start not working once changed is on the list to be fixed for the next version, apparently. He was going to have me roll back to 3.0.2 or something to fix it but aint nobody got time for that.

Probably going to have to go to a JY and cut a Honda plug in order to get this done in the next couple days, gotta do what you gotta do.

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Been dealing with intermittent fueling issues for a while, suddenly got a lot worse today when prepping the car for the classing dyno / events this fri-sun.

MAP was reading wonky, wiggle plug and it goes crazy. Pull on the wires to make sure they're seated and one came right off.




Seems like it was barely holding on this whole time.

Also, sat on the phone with Haltech Australia for about an hour and a half tonight - the push button to start not working once changed is on the list to be fixed for the next version, apparently. He was going to have me roll back to 3.0.2 or something to fix it but aint nobody got time for that.

Probably going to have to go to a JY and cut a Honda plug in order to get this done in the next couple days, gotta do what you gotta do.

Do you think that was caused by a bad crimp?

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by redlined600

Do you think that was caused by a bad crimp?

It looks like the wire got nicked during stripping and eventually failed

[RedReplicant]

This is what the unrestricted pump 91 tune made on a dynojet with the nasa smoothing



Something is up with the tune at vtec transition, so I need to get that figured out. It also present is on my "205whp" and "200whp" tunes dynos so it isn't an anomaly like I assumed before.

Car made 205whp and 206whp average on the 200whp and 205whp tunes so I get to add ballast. They basically made the expected power with heatsoak but blew me up otherwise, which I'm not real happy about.