DIY Raceseng CasCam plates for KW V3

[olorin]

You will need:

• Raceseng CasCam plates for KW V3 w/ spring perch
• Jack and 2-3 stands
• 19mm socket
• 18mm wrench
• 9mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 6mm alen wrench
• Flat head screwdriver

Notes:
If you have Cusco strut tower braces replace the 25mm bolts with 30mm bolts: http://www.mcmaster.com/#92290a434/=q5f08j

Jack your car up and remove the front wheels. Place a jack under the side you are working with. Do one side at a time. The L plate goes on the driver's side (in US) and the R plate goes on the passenger's side-- R and L is from the perspective of the driver not standing in front of the engine bay (I initially installed in reverse and had to redo it).

Remove the 17mm bolt from where the control arm attaches to the coilover:


Remove the 19mm camber nuts (leave the bolts in for now), 12mm brake line bolt, and pop the tabs for the ABS line:


Next remove the nuts holding the coilover into the strut tower:


Brace the brake and disc before you remove the camber bolts coilover:


I used a jack stand on the lugs and a jack underneath.

Remove the bolts and pull the coilover out. The top hat needs to be removed. You don't need a spring compressor for the KW V3 since they are not under a lot of compression at this point. I don't have the specific tool to remove the top hats but this worked well. I used a 19mm 1/2 socket with a smaller 9mm 1/4 socket inside. Use the plyers or vice grips to turn the 19mm socket while using the 9mm to hold it still:


Remove both the top hat and the purple cone/spring perch. Add the Raceseng spring perch:


And the plate:


Compress to add the top nut:


Be sure to follow the instructions on which parts to grease.

Clean the underside of the strut tower and install coilover. Reinstalling is the biggest pain. I found it easier to get a camber bolt inserted first (I slightly lowered the arm to make it easier). After you get it into place bolt everything back up and install the bolts and t-nuts for the plate and strut tower:


Use 6mm allen wrench to tighten bolts.

Follow directions for grease, loctite, torque specs, adjustments, etc.

Install other side. Get an alignment.

[FRSfan111]

Looks great! This is my planned suspension set up for track. Bookmarked!

[Fett4Real]

Not sure you should be turning the actual rod when doing this....could break a seal in the shock/strut

[Lee358]

thanks! been waiting for this getting mine installed friday just wanted to see how hard/easy it was.

[olorin]

Originally Posted by Fett4Real

Not sure you should be turning the actual rod when doing this....could break a seal in the shock/strut

What do you mean? I'm not turning any rod.

Edit: Are you referring to:


I am turning the socket with the plyers and using the 1/4 socket to keep it from turning. I can make this more clear.

[Fett4Real]

AHHHH good....I was under the impression you were turning the socket which would not be good...

[olorin]

Originally Posted by Fett4Real

AHHHH good....I was under the impression you were turning the socket which would not be good...

Thanks for pointing that out-- I wasn't clear.

[feldy]

go to harbor freight they have cheap pass through sockets

[newbrz]

Originally Posted by normancw

Great DIY! I installed mine a a couple of weeks ago.

For those that have a Cusco strut bar, I needed to use longer 30mm bolts (stock bolts are 25mm long).


This is how much the 30mm bolts protrude past the nuts with the Cusco bar.


These are the bolts Raceseng told me to use:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#92290a434/=q5f08j

[/QUOTE]

Is that good or bad??

[newbrz]

Originally Posted by Fett4Real

AHHHH good....I was under the impression you were turning the socket which would not be good...

Ok quick question here. I was trying to put on my raceseng top mounts and failed to do it with this procedure. While trying to take the stock top mount off I did turn the socket, not by much, probably around one or two full turns. Is there a hazzard to this? How can I make sure I can go back to being safe? Should I do the whole procedure again and tighten it?? Thanks beforehand

[Enders FRS]

Originally Posted by newbrz

Ok quick question here. I was trying to put on my raceseng top mounts and failed to do it with this procedure. While trying to take the stock top mount off I did turn the socket, not by much, probably around one or two full turns. Is there a hazzard to this? How can I make sure I can go back to being safe? Should I do the whole procedure again and tighten it?? Thanks beforehand

NO! Every rotation risks breaking the seal. Do not re rotate.

[newbrz]

Originally Posted by Enders FRS

NO! Every rotation risks breaking the seal. Do not re rotate.

I just left it alone, I will get a professional place to install the plates. Hopefully my poor judgement wont cost me

[slyphen]

how tight exactly does the shock nut need to be? i got to tight enough to the point where it was turning the shaft and i couldn't hold it with the socket+extension+wrench on the shaft. i nudged it a little and nudged it back. is this tight enough? also, what did you mean by greasing? i didn't see any part that need to be greased. did i skip something?

Originally Posted by olorin

Compress to add the top nut:


Be sure to follow the instructions on which parts to grease.