CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[SubiePig]

Originally Posted by ja1217

2900 lbs includes me in the drivers seat and 70lbs of ballast in the rear. Minimum weight for the car in TTD is 2885, which I can get to with only about 1/2 a tank of gas.

I'd consider doing sway bars, but those cost points in NASA's TT system, so I'm just going to stick with the stock ones. I can swap out my current springs without taking any additional points.

I forget the base weight is 2885, I took my last bit of points for weight and was at 2835. Trying to keep the car TTD fast and STX legal was getting to hard so I just went to TTC. :/

[kster1]

Originally Posted by ja1217

Just got off the phone with Ohlins USA and they said they usually charge about $120 a corner for revalve/service, which sounds quite reasonable to me, so I think I will be sending mine in soon as they said they end up getting pretty busy with professional race teams over the winter.

Now all that I need to do is buy the springs. Any suggestions on brand?

FWIW, I'm running Eibach race springs with my R&T coilovers (spring rate of 350F/425R). And they fit fine.

[ja1217]

Originally Posted by SubiePig

I forget the base weight is 2885, I took my last bit of points for weight and was at 2835. Trying to keep the car TTD fast and STX legal was getting to hard so I just went to TTC. :/

Yeah, I will probably move up to TTC eventually, but for now I'm going to try to max out my setup in TTD. Next year is going to be interesting as I am most likely going to be reducing tire grip by moving to the Maxxis tires, but hopefully increasing grip in the rest of the car by going to stiffer springs and a clutch LSD, all while adding more power by doing full exhaust and intake. Could be faster, could be a recipe for disaster. All I know is I lose more time on the straights to those dang E36 M3s than I can make up in the corners.

[SubiePig]

Originally Posted by ja1217

Yeah, I will probably move up to TTC eventually, but for now I'm going to try to max out my setup in TTD. Next year is going to be interesting as I am most likely going to be reducing tire grip by moving to the Maxxis tires, but hopefully increasing grip in the rest of the car by going to stiffer springs and a clutch LSD, all while adding more power by doing full exhaust and intake. Could be faster, could be a recipe for disaster. All I know is I lose more time on the straights to those dang E36 M3s than I can make up in the corners.

I set the TTD Record at MSR Houston this year on 255 RS3's, Kw's, full exhaust, stock tune, 22mm front swaybar, and HC800 pads. It can be done!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by ja1217

I'll need to look through the rule book again. I know a lot of the bushings can be free, but some aren't. Swaybars definitely take points though and are a no-go for me.

Also, would your springrate recommendations change much for the Maxxis RC-1 tires (slightly more grip than NT01's, I think)?

Here is the section of the TT rules regarding suspension bushings:
This sounds like I'd be able to do the Whiteline polyurethane crossmember mount bushings, but I'm afraid the other bushings around sway bars, control arms, etc will cost points.

Gotcha. Yeah go without the swaybars for sure.

Spring rates should be good with either of those tires, might want a little more camber though.

Originally Posted by ja1217

Just got off the phone with Ohlins USA and they said they usually charge about $120 a corner for revalve/service, which sounds quite reasonable to me, so I think I will be sending mine in soon as they said they end up getting pretty busy with professional race teams over the winter.

Now all that I need to do is buy the springs. Any suggestions on brand?

Hyperco, Swift, Eibach.

- Andy

[FRS Johnny]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

FA coilovers use separate ride height and preload adjustments, so if you're using the lower mount to adjust height you won't be adding any bump travel back when raising the car.

Do you mostly feel it over dips? How stiff do you have your dampers set?

- Andy

I believe the dampers are less than 10 clicks from full stop. Should I try to stiffen them and try that out?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by FRS Johnny

I believe the dampers are less than 10 clicks from full stop. Should I try to stiffen them and try that out?

If you feel it more over dips and just after the wheel should be extending, try softening them a few clicks. I'm thinking the rebound is too firm and the wheel isn't able to extend, aka it's "packing down."

Just a thought from a few thousand miles away.

- Andy

[normancw]

I have RCE Tarmac 2 coilovers - is it OK to put it up on jack stands for the winter (3-4 months)?

I plan on doing a few mods over the winter and it would be easier to just leave it on stands.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by normancw

I have RCE Tarmac 2 coilovers - is it OK to put it up on jack stands for the winter (3-4 months)?

I plan on doing a few mods over the winter and it would be easier to just leave it on stands.

That's fine.

- Andy

[enivid]

I'm currently at - 2 camber in the rear using the whiteline rear camber bushing kit. I'm lowered about an inch. Do you think I'll be able to get - 2.5 out of it?

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by enivid

I'm currently at - 2 camber in the rear using the whiteline rear camber bushing kit. I'm lowered about an inch. Do you think I'll be able to get - 2.5 out of it?

Im on RCE yellows dropped an inch and I maxed out around 3 degrees in the rear with the WL camber bushings so you should be able to I'd imagine. But as always YMMV.

[yomny]

Are the sports-i coil overs from rs-r really that much better than the competitor like fortune auto, bc racing or any other kit around the $1800 tag? If so what makes it bette, valving?
@CSG Mike @Racecomp Engineering

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by yomny

Are the sports-i coil overs from rs-r really that much better than the competitor like fortune auto, bc racing or any other kit around the $1800 tag? If so what makes it bette, valving?
@CSG Mike @Racecomp Engineering

They're "better" in that the valving curve better suits the springs the coilover is paired with.

[PNW FRS]

Background: Added struts/coilovers (Speed by Design Pro Street). Asked a question earlier in this post re: spring bind (wind) and ended up buying some Torrington Bearings (Fortune-Auto) for the front... and no more spring bind(wind). Huzzah!

However, the Torrington Bearings haven't eliminated some erratic occurrences -- coming from front-right (best as I can discern...) -- that sounds almost like a metal-on-metal "crunching" noise. I've gone through the setup and best as I can tell, everything on the strut is buttoned down.... top nut, lock rings, bolts tight, etc. Just got back from a 60 mile drive that I knew would provide a good mix of smooth asphalt, mild to medium bumpy asphalt, to "Oh yeah.. that's rough..." asphalt.


The good news... at speed (e.g., 50+ on smooth asphalt or cement), everything runs nice... nothing odd sounding. If I throw in some quick right-left-right-left etc. maneuvers.. there will be a slight crunching sound (very mild... as if the weight shift is making something move)


Then... straight-line path... transitioning to mild-to-medium or rough pavement... the first sound of the "crunch" comes through loud and clear... and most times, is followed by continuous "crunching" until the car comes to a stop. Same in a parking lot...driving slow... smooth asphalt... no noise.. but go over a speed bump (slowly) and the compression and release of that brings on the "crunch."


And far as I can tell, it is only coming from the front-right of the car. (I know that noise can emanating elsewhere, but it's pretty loud and clear from the front-right.


Pretty sure that spring pre-load is where it should be. All four corners are set the same... there is no noise coming from the other 3 corners.


Looking for suggestion for where to start the next round of troubleshooting... go back to the alignment shop and see if maybe "something" didn't get buttoned down after the alignment (cuz it kind of sounds like "knuckle-crunching" when it's at its worst. Or.. is the culprit likely the strut itself (which if so... how best to phrase the question to the vendor since the strut is still under warranty.

Thanks in advance for any additional insights....


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