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Old 08-05-2015, 11:10 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by wnt3d View Post
I'm not quite sure what you mean? where's 'this sound' coming from you speak of?.
Hm, in low gears under low rpm and laboring the engine, eg going uphill at low rpm/speed, there's a rattly "bearings in a tin can" sound that many attribute to being from the stock clutch, just wondered if replacing with a different clutch made a difference.

Here's a recording of the sound http://vocaroo.com/i/s1vDPdg8iBax

On topic though, loving your build so far, super clean, very well done! Will you be doing the spring removal mod for the clutch pedal too?
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Old 08-05-2015, 11:36 AM   #16
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Hm, in low gears under low rpm and laboring the engine, eg going uphill at low rpm/speed, there's a rattly "bearings in a tin can" sound that many attribute to being from the stock clutch, just wondered if replacing with a different clutch made a difference.

Here's a recording of the sound http://vocaroo.com/i/s1vDPdg8iBax

On topic though, loving your build so far, super clean, very well done! Will you be doing the spring removal mod for the clutch pedal too?
are you having that noise with a stock clutch? ... still not sure what that sound could be as I dont nor never did have that issue? some lightened flywheels do chatter do? so if you've upgraded yours then that could be the issue.

I find no reason to do the spring removal mod? whats the purpose of this mod as I've never looked into it. It drives and changes fine already. The only thing I may add to improve transmission feel is maybe a STI short shifter and a perrin shifter mount.
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Old 08-05-2015, 12:18 PM   #17
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After second thought's I'm going to get a barb fitting attached to my intake to plum it properly and will most probably go with a radium dual can setup. I was worried if by running a filter at the end of the hose and tucking it, if it may cause any flammable blow by to spray onto the hot engine and risk catching alight


Yep I always think of that because it really smells, if you have your AC on and not recirculating you'll be sucking in all sorts of weird fuel mixed with oil fumes lol. I was going to suggest what you just mentioned, that'll be the best route.
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Old 08-05-2015, 12:26 PM   #18
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are you having that noise with a stock clutch? ... still not sure what that sound could be as I dont nor never did have that issue? some lightened flywheels do chatter do? so if you've upgraded yours then that could be the issue.

I find no reason to do the spring removal mod? whats the purpose of this mod as I've never looked into it. It drives and changes fine already. The only thing I may add to improve transmission feel is maybe a STI short shifter and a perrin shifter mount.

I have this but with an aftermarket clutch and flywheel.. it only happens when the engine is loaded, meaning AC is on(causing the fan's to go full power) and at idle only. This sound is due to heavy load at really low rpms, heard sometimes when near stalling the car. Search for flywheel chatter.. its usually pretty audible with the low idle rpm and a lightened flywheel but never heard of it with a stock clutch and or flywheel.
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Old 08-12-2015, 10:34 AM   #19
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How is everyone else running there vacuum lines to supply the gate, bov, boost gauge, ebc ?

I've currently got a 4 port vacum block with 3 lines to feed the boost gauge, gate, and bov originally, but now that I've decided to run a ebc I'm unsure on which way I should connect the solenoid and where to tap into for the ebc control unit.

My turbo does not have a nipple of the compressor housing so I can't get a pressure signal from that desired location, does anyone have any complaints by supplying all boost and pressure inputs from the manifold pressure?

This is how I've configured my vacuum lines and turbo/gate/solenoid setup. can someone tell me if this is correct, and how I should feed port 1 (marone) of the solenoid and the ebc unit (yellow) ** don't mind the kiddy illustration



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Old 08-12-2015, 01:12 PM   #20
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Used a quick tap I got from ATP turbo, im sure it could be had from other sources.. works fantastic. I wasn't too sure about taking my turbo and drilling it lol im not too comfy with that.





Mounted right on the turbo comp outlet coupler.
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Old 08-12-2015, 02:28 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by wnt3d View Post
How is everyone else running there vacuum lines to supply the gate, bov, boost gauge, ebc ?

I've currently got a 4 port vacum block with 3 lines to feed the boost gauge, gate, and bov originally, but now that I've decided to run a ebc I'm unsure on which way I should connect the solenoid and where to tap into for the ebc control unit.

My turbo does not have a nipple of the compressor housing so I can't get a pressure signal from that desired location, does anyone have any complaints by supplying all boost and pressure inputs from the manifold pressure?

This is how I've configured my vacuum lines and turbo/gate/solenoid setup. can someone tell me if this is correct, and how I should feed port 1 (marone) of the solenoid and the ebc unit (yellow) ** don't mind the kiddy illustration
I didn't have a nipple on my compressor housing either, so I used a vacuum manifold for mine with no issues for 15,000 miles.



So my outlets were:

Boost gauge (inside)
Boost controller (inside)
BOV
Boost solenoid
Wastegate

I then zip tied the output of the boost solenoid and the line for the wastegate together and ran them over to the wastegate where each hooked up.

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Old 08-12-2015, 03:17 PM   #22
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thanks @King Tut for assuring that its safe to run it like that, I knew it would work but wasn't sure if it was the ideal way to do it. If a run a hose from the last port on the vacuum block to the port 1 of solenoid, which hose should I tee for the ebc pressure hose (yellow) and would tee'ing into the boost gauge (orange hose) be the safest bet?
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:58 PM   #23
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thanks @King Tut for assuring that its safe to run it like that, I knew it would work but wasn't sure if it was the ideal way to do it. If a run a hose from the last port on the vacuum block to the port 1 of solenoid, which hose should I tee for the ebc pressure hose (yellow) and would tee'ing into the boost gauge (orange hose) be the safest bet?
Let me be clear that this isn't the best way to do it. It is best to give the wastegate and boost solenoid a boost reference from as close to the exit of the turbo as possible so that it reacts the quickest, but the vacuum manifold method will work. The best bet is to get a vacuum manifold where you don't have to do any tees at all. I would make the two wastegate lines the most important and if you have to tee then use a tee for the BOV and boost gauge.
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Old 08-13-2015, 12:17 AM   #24
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Let me be clear that this isn't the best way to do it. It is best to give the wastegate and boost solenoid a boost reference from as close to the exit of the turbo as possible so that it reacts the quickest, but the vacuum manifold method will work. The best bet is to get a vacuum manifold where you don't have to do any tees at all. I would make the two wastegate lines the most important and if you have to tee then use a tee for the BOV and boost gauge.
Would it be argumentative to say that getting the boost reference after the intercooler but before the throttle body would be better? as the hot air coming from the turbo would read higher pressure then once its cools and enters the TB?

I've order one of those soft wall ATP turbo vacuum fittings and will try mount it along the intercooler piping after the intercooler before the TB.

Thanks guru @King Tut for your help once again
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:21 AM   #25
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Would it be argumentative to say that getting the boost reference after the intercooler but before the throttle body would be better? as the hot air coming from the turbo would read higher pressure then once its cools and enters the TB?

I've order one of those soft wall ATP turbo vacuum fittings and will try mount it along the intercooler piping after the intercooler before the TB.

Thanks guru @King Tut for your help once again
Is it better, yeah it is better, but you are still seeing a PSI loss across the piping and the intercooler but it is better than a reference from the intake manifold post throttle body. Why aren't you just putting it in the coupler coming off the turbo?
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Old 08-16-2015, 01:14 PM   #26
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Progress has been slow because of the cold weather but I've managed to complete the turbosmart ebc and injector install. I also changed the plastic barb fittings on the boost solenoid to black AN fittings to give it a neater look. Something that does bother me and is a bit of a concern is that I should of changed the silicone vacuum lines to braided items to make sure nothing ever melts or leaks. This will be on the plans for the future

Turbosmart Eboost Street Electronic Boost Controller



Injector Dynamics 1300cc Injectors - stainless steel internals make it compatible with all known fuels




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Old 08-19-2015, 02:27 PM   #27
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New SME 3" catted front pipe and overpipe
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Old 08-19-2015, 02:37 PM   #28
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New SME 3" catted front pipe and overpipe
Beautiful work, wish we had more 3" options around here.
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