Failure After J02 Recall - Discussion Threads

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Octane

No. Only the cam caps and cams are removed. The carriers stay in place.

Someone please help old humfrz out here. In this picture, where are the cam caps and cam carriers?

Are the "caps" the things that have two bolts and hold the cam down and the carrier is the assembly that holds both cams?

Sorry, the last time I had an engine apart, the cam was down in the engine (where it belongs). -


humfrz

[Gunman]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Someone please help old humfrz out here. In this picture, where are the cam caps and cam carriers?

Are the "caps" the things that have two bolts and hold the cam down and the carrier is the assembly that holds both cams?

Sorry, the last time I had an engine apart, the cam was down in the engine (where it belongs). -


humfrz

you got it.

[Octane]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Someone please help old humfrz out here. In this picture, where are the cam caps and cam carriers?

Are the "caps" the things that have two bolts and hold the cam down and the carrier is the assembly that holds both cams?

Sorry, the last time I had an engine apart, the cam was down in the engine (where it belongs). -


humfrz

Yeah, the caps are held by the two bolts. The picture you have shows the whole cam carrier. However the J02 recall does not tell you to take off the whole carrier. I also noticed the head gasket and head bolts in the pic. Thats not a J02 recall pictures, but an actual engine tear down picture. J02 you just remove the caps and the cam.

[Ichima]

So, car went back for the third time now to the same dealership after the recall. Last night car after a week of having the car, it went into limp mode and almost stalled out on me a couple times. Dealership was 3 miles from where I was so I just drove it into their parking lot. How many times will I need to bring my car back to the dealership for repairs before it's running correctly again? If anybody is from Connecticut, are there certain limitations that a dealer has when working on a vehicle. Especially for the same issue.

[aemravan]

That is absolutely insane.. I would be pretty livid at this point..

Starting to feel more optimistic about my recall being denied and having to do it myself... this way I will at least know what goes into the rebuild...



hopefully it isn't anything serious and they can get it done right .

[subaru]

So I posted before in the registry thread about a crazy rattle from the transmission or shifter 200 miles or less after recall. Wanted to move the conversation here as I posted it in the wrong place. The car will be going back to the dealer eventually so I guess until then we can just speculate. I have to say while s happens It's pretty scary if someone forgot to torque something causing this, god knows if they were capable enough to do the valve springs. Probably not.

[MG_T1989]

Hi everyone, so I originally posted in the recall failure thread back in April.

Obviously, Toyota corporate has refused to take responsibility for ruining my car during the stupid recall so it has been sitting at my home looking like a trophy. I have found an attorney who said I have a case but I was also told it could take months, or years for it to settle and that you just never know with a lawsuit.

Anyone else look into an attorney?


At this point I am unsure of what to do but I am livid at what Toyota has done and is trying to get away with. For an automotive company that is worth $236 billion, you'd think they'd try and help us out.

[BRZnut]

My advice? Go all out...you have nothing to loose now since they refuse to help you and refuse to take responsibly for the damage they caused with the recall:

File a safety complaint...since the recall can cause the car to stop in traffic...its a safety issue:

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

Ask you attorney if you can speed up the process by using Small Claims Court

Check with you local TV stations to see if they can help you.

And, never buy a car with a Subaru engine again, nor a Toyota since they do not stand by their products.

Good Luck!

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by BRZnut

My advice? Go all out...you have nothing to loose now since they refuse to help you and refuse to take responsibly for the damage they caused with the recall:

File a safety complaint...since the recall can cause the car to stop in traffic...its a safety issue:

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

Ask you attorney if you can speed up the process by using Small Claims Court

Check with you local TV stations to see if they can help you.

And, never buy a car with a Subaru engine again, nor a Toyota since they do not stand by their products.

Good Luck!

Agree with the first part but not the end. There have only been a small handful of cars where Subaru or Toyota have not fixed their screw ups. Not acceptable but not a good reason to write off the whole brands either.

[Ichima]

Got word back from the dealer today. Code went from P000B to P000A after switching the OCV's. My concern is now they are stating this is not something that is in their hands since they did not touch it. My concern is while repairing my vehicle they also repaired TSB 02-151-14R which actually required them to change cams, rockers, intake and exhaust valves, rod bearing, etc.

[Ichima]

Originally Posted by Ichima

Got word back from the dealer today. Code went from P000B to P000A after switching the OCV's. My concern is now they are stating this is not something that is in their hands since they did not touch it. My concern is while repairing my vehicle they also repaired TSB 02-151-14R which actually required them to change cams, rockers, intake and exhaust valves, rod bearing, etc.

In my case, I wouldn't be as skeptical as I was pulling a P0017 code after the recall which happens to be on the passenger side of the motor I believe. Which is for the Camshaft sensor, and now I'm pulling P000B and P000A for slow camshaft response. I'm giving the benefit of a doubt and will replace the OCV as they stated I needed to only replace Intake Side Bank 1 and "all my issues will be solved".

[EAGLE5]

If there is going to be a problem is there a way to speed it up? Revving higher? Lugging a bit? What will screw things up quickest? Also, it's been 1000 miles. Does it make sense to drain the oil through a screen to see if there's any sealant or metal? Car is running just fine so far.

[alan.chalkley]

Originally Posted by jsimon7777

If there is going to be a problem is there a way to speed it up? Revving higher? Lugging a bit? What will screw things up quickest? Also, it's been 1000 miles. Does it make sense to drain the oil through a screen to see if there's any sealant or metal? Car is running just fine so far.

It would help to do an additional oil+filter change , just in case there is any loose **** floating around.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by alan.chalkley

It would help to do an additional oil+filter change , just in case there is any loose **** floating around.

Agree. When I rebuilt mine I used cheap oil and a new filter and only put 200 on it before changing the oil. At that point I put normal oil in it along with a new filter and did 1000 miles and changed oil/filter again. Now I’m on my normal intervals.

The best way to accelerate the wear would be lots of pulls to redline. I would do an oil change and inspect what comes out first.