Gear problem....

[justatroll]

Originally Posted by benlaz88

Correct me if im wrong on the bleeding. Depress the cluth pedal and hold it. Than open the bleed value to let the fluid out. Than close the valve. Than lift back the pedal up and repeat.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Yes - this usually requires a helper

[benlaz88]

So i just did my bleed and still no success. I guess i will bring it back to the shop to take a look at it. Thanks for all your help everyone!

[benlaz88]

Just got a call from my shop, i prob need to replace my trans. Nothing wrong with the clutch or the fork.🙁

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[VerusEric]

Originally Posted by benlaz88

Just got a call from my shop, i prob need to replace my trans. Nothing wrong with the clutch or the fork.🙁

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Visually the clutch fork will not show that it is/was bending in the transmission.

I had a customer who couldn't get the car into gear while stopped, acted like the clutch wasn't disengaging at all. He had an FX400 or 500. He replaced the OEM clutch fork with ours, called me when he was putting it in, "They look identical, the OEM unit isn't bent, the paint isn't chipped, I don't think this is going to fix it. Do you have any other ideas, etc." Ultimately he ended up trying it and it fixed his issue, clutch fully disengages again and the transmission works as it should. The fork was bending.

I can't say for sure this is the case here but just wanted to share this instance. Just because the fork looks okay, does not mean it isn't bending in the bell housing.

Thanks,
Eric

[benlaz88]

Originally Posted by VeloxEric

Visually the clutch fork will not show that it is/was bending in the transmission.

I had a customer who couldn't get the car into gear while stopped, acted like the clutch wasn't disengaging at all. He had an FX400 or 500. He replaced the OEM clutch fork with ours, called me when he was putting it in, "They look identical, the OEM unit isn't bent, the paint isn't chipped, I don't think this is going to fix it. Do you have any other ideas, etc." Ultimately he ended up trying it and it fixed his issue, clutch fully disengages again and the transmission works as it should. The fork was bending.

I can't say for sure this is the case here but just wanted to share this instance. Just because the fork looks okay, does not mean it isn't bending in the bell housing.

Thanks,
Eric

Is there a number i can call you?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[Spartarus]

Originally Posted by benlaz88

Correct me if im wrong on the bleeding. Depress the cluth pedal and hold it. Than open the bleed value to let the fluid out. Than close the valve. Than lift back the pedal up and repeat.

No.

Open

Depress clutch

Close

Release clutch.

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Or...
Sit in car.
Depress clutch.
Start car.
Put in first gear.
Release clutch until car starts to move.
Grab point found.

When I get back to town I'm going to get a video up to demonstrate my point.

Yes, that will find the grab point. But the friction zone extends well past the grab point. That's why OP can't get the trans in gear.

Mark the grab point height with something.

Put the car on a lift. Drive wheels in the air. Engine running.

Put trans in first.

Depress clutch very slowly until wheels stop turning.

See how far down past the "grab point" you have to go to stop the wheels

It will transform the way you see full-face organic clutches.

Run the same test with pucks. The difference is alarming.

Originally Posted by benlaz88

Just got a call from my shop, i prob need to replace my trans. Nothing wrong with the clutch or the fork.��

No. That's not how the transmission works.

Either way, assuming OP did bleed the clutch correctly, the flex in the fork reduces the motion ratio, and the clutch remains in the friction zone. The car is stopped. The first gear synchro has to fight to stop the input shaft and countershaft, as the output shaft is stopped. The clutch is trying to fight to keep the input shaft turning at idle RPM. The clutch wins, and the trans won't go in to gear. If the car didn't have baulk ring synchros, it would just grind. But, as it does have baulk rings, it simply locks out of gear because the shaft speeds will not synchronize.

If it won't go into first at any speed, and won't go in with the engine off, then your transmission is broken, but that's not what you said earlier. We can get into what may be broken, but that's not the case.

Assuming you've told us everything, your issue is clutch drag. There aren't any other possibilities. We can talk about why if you like.

[Ultramaroon]

OP, I cannot stress enough the importance of reading the above post very carefully. If any part of it is not crystal clear, ask for clarification.

[benlaz88]

UPDATE: totally forgot to update you guys!

Replaced my clutch fork, the gear still block me from getting into gear. This hissing sound occur when gear is block. After able to get in 5th gear and put back into natural, hissing sound stop and I'm able put in reverse and first. Any idea what cause it. I have southbound endurance clutch. Any help will be appreciated! I dont know how to post sound clip on here.. i have also post this on the AZ86 members page with video/sound clip https://www.facebook.com/groups/1422313724716286/

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by benlaz88

UPDATE: totally forgot to update you guys!

Replaced my clutch fork, the gear still block me from getting into gear. This hissing sound occur when gear is block. After able to get in 5th gear and put back into natural, hissing sound stop and I'm able put in reverse and first. Any idea what cause it. I have southbound endurance clutch. Any help will be appreciated! I dont know how to post sound clip on here.. i have also post this on the AZ86 members page with video/sound clip https://www.facebook.com/groups/1422313724716286/

Post it on youtube. For now I'll guess that your friction disc is binding on the input shaft.

[benlaz88]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Post it on youtube. For now I'll guess that your friction disc is binding on the input shaft.

Ok. here you go. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8D6r_Kx1588"]Frs gear block Hissing sound - YouTube[/ame]

[VerusEric]

Originally Posted by benlaz88

Ok. here you go.

Are the wheels spinning at all or are they stationary through the whole video?

[benlaz88]

Originally Posted by VeloxEric

Are the wheels spinning at all or are they stationary through the whole video?

they are stationary through the whole video

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by benlaz88

Ok. here you go.

Your clutch isn't fully disengaging. That's the sound of you stalling the friction disc.

I bet if you put it in first and then start the engine, it will creep.

Don't drive it at all until you get that clutch fixed.


edit: Eric, what do you think?

[VerusEric]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Your clutch isn't fully disengaging. That's the sound of you stalling the friction disc.

I bet if you put it in first and then start the engine, it will creep.

Don't drive it at all until you get that clutch fixed.


edit: Eric, what do you think?

I think the bolded statement is a good test to prove the theory.

I want to clarify OP's statements as they're a bit confusing currently. Benlaz88, could you please clarify if the below statements are all true?

1) The noise exists with the car out of gear, clutch depressed?
2) What happens with car out of gear, clutch not depressed?
3) The noise goes away when the car goes into gear, clutch depressed?

That is not a good sound and something I can honestly say I have not heard before.

Thanks,
Eric