Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[tomm.brz]

what do you mean failed valve springs that are a know problem? they weren t a problem even in 2013 recalled cars, let alone a 2019. What happened?

[mrg666]

Valve springs failed and had to be replaced. There was a recall for those valve springs at the time.

[tomm.brz]

my bad i read 2019 and didn't notice you meant just the header, you actually have a 2014 car
that's unfortunate, not many people broke valve springs, no chance to make the recall before the accident ?

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

my bad i read 2019 and didn't notice you meant just the header, you actually have a 2014 car
that's unfortunate, not many people broke valve springs, no chance to make the recall before the accident ?

My car was not included in the recall by a small margin. Yet, the valves springs still failed. Either supercharger pushed the springs over the limit or they were going to fail anyway. But, since Toyota refused warranty they suggested using after market springs rated for more power. I wish I had the ability to do this myself. Then, I had to troubleshoot problems created by their work. It seems the car is back to normal working condition now. Thanks!

[Grady]

Originally Posted by mrg666

My car was not included in the recall by a small margin. Yet, the valves springs still failed. Either supercharger pushed the springs over the limit or they were going to fail anyway. But, since Toyota refused warranty they suggested using after market springs rated for more power. I wish I had the ability to do this myself. Then, I had to troubleshoot problems created by their work. It seems the car is back to normal working condition now. Thanks!

Supercharged did not cause springs to fail.

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by Grady

Supercharged did not cause springs to fail.

Good to know. I was not confident to say that. Thanks!

[superleggera]

Coming up on two years with the JRSC - I know the fluid needs to be changed every 2 years / 50k mi, but the filter just says every 50k - should I go ahead and change the filter at the same time?

[JDMChris]

Originally Posted by superleggera

Coming up on two years with the JRSC - I know the fluid needs to be changed every 2 years / 50k mi, but the filter just says every 50k - should I go ahead and change the filter at the same time?

They should be changed together.

[BRZCR]

Hi guys I’m trying to figure out what’s best for me. I love my BRZ 17 but I’d like more power, it’s already “stage 2+” with oft. I’ve been considering going FI and JRSC seems like the most reliable option. The other option I have is to sell the car and buy a 21 stock sti. Anyways, my country’s premium gas is 91 octane at most, sometimes 89 depending on how lucky you are. Should I stay away of FI because of this? Or should I just get tuned in my country (I know a respectable Subaru tuner). It’s my daily driver btw.

[q335r49]

Well, I just joined the cai club... I just needed to braze a 1 in pipe to a 3 in u pipe, drill a 3/4 in hole, and notch the cross member. But I like how it turned out!

[Lep897]

Hey guys I'm kind of at my wits end with an issue that popped up after moving from the supplied c38 pulley to the high boost pulley.

A little backstory: I just boosted the car towards the end of June and ran the original pulley until I moved into flex fuel/high boost pulley around mid august(no issues). About a month into this high boost pulley install my car began hopping belts out of position and peeling off strands like a Twizzler and now I'm 4 belts deep. I did the install with a mechanic friend as I'm basically only a youtube mechanic at this point.

After the second belt shred I had my local tuner and a local Subaru specific repair shop check belt alignment position. Both told me everything looked okay and it might be worth getting a new tensioner arm(video of tensioner movement below) as this one had over 90k on it. Ran 3rd belt for over a week without issue when it hopped a groove and walked itself off the lip of one of the pulleys during rain.

Today(3 days after placing 4th belt on) with a brand new tensioner arm the belt hopped and walked out after hitting the rev limiter merging onto highway.

I've been in contact with the JR team and they've reassured me this has never been an issue in the 12+ years they've been in production. I'm either patient zero on this problem or there is something really wrong that experienced eyes haven't been able to pinpoint. So that's why I'm here. Does anyone here have any experience or advice? Do I need a shorter length belt with the high boost pulley? Do I go with aftermarket Idler pulleys to add extra walls as a means to keep it from walking? Is it a sell the car(kidding) angle?
Photos/video links below
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/OxNmpMN0rf8
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/VBYspBj98F0

[Pat]

Sorry to hear of your problems. Unfortunately, I don't have a solution for you. For what it's worth I had a problem with my Jackson oil cooler. They assured me I was doing something wrong and they'd never seen the problem before. A week later I was having lunch with a buddy that had the exact same problem.
I'm paraphrasing here but basically the message was, "We've sold thousands of these things and never anything like this.". Then the next week I talk with my buddy that experienced the same thing, with the same resolution. That puts serious doubt in my mind.

Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Lep897

Hey guys I'm kind of at my wits end with an issue that popped up after moving from the supplied c38 pulley to the high boost pulley.

A little backstory: I just boosted the car towards the end of June and ran the original pulley until I moved into flex fuel/high boost pulley around mid august(no issues). About a month into this high boost pulley install my car began hopping belts out of position and peeling off strands like a Twizzler and now I'm 4 belts deep. I did the install with a mechanic friend as I'm basically only a youtube mechanic at this point.

After the second belt shred I had my local tuner and a local Subaru specific repair shop check belt alignment position. Both told me everything looked okay and it might be worth getting a new tensioner arm(video of tensioner movement below) as this one had over 90k on it. Ran 3rd belt for over a week without issue when it hopped a groove and walked itself off the lip of one of the pulleys during rain.

Today(3 days after placing 4th belt on) with a brand new tensioner arm the belt hopped and walked out after hitting the rev limiter merging onto highway.

I've been in contact with the JR team and they've reassured me this has never been an issue in the 12+ years they've been in production. I'm either patient zero on this problem or there is something really wrong that experienced eyes haven't been able to pinpoint. So that's why I'm here. Does anyone here have any experience or advice? Do I need a shorter length belt with the high boost pulley? Do I go with aftermarket Idler pulleys to add extra walls as a means to keep it from walking? Is it a sell the car(kidding) angle?
Photos/video links below
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/OxNmpMN0rf8
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/VBYspBj98F0

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Is your supercharger bracket flat? Put it on a known flat surface, like a mirror, to verify.

Any aftermarket pulleys?

Hitting the rev limiter WILL cause belt issues. Don't do that.

Also, you can run a slightly smaller belt with the HBP to maintain better tension.

[Lep897]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Is your supercharger bracket flat? Put it on a known flat surface, like a mirror, to verify.

Any aftermarket pulleys?

Hitting the rev limiter WILL cause belt issues. Don't do that.

Also, you can run a slightly smaller belt with the HBP to maintain better tension.

All pulleys on the vehicle are either OEM or supplied via the JR kit. I am sitting on NST tensioner/idler pulley kit but haven't made the move to place them as I just wanna know why its happening before complicating the process.

I'll be looking over the bracket to make sure its flat once the new belt comes through shipping.

I know hitting the rev limiter is generally something you're not going to want to do but at the same time I shouldn't be terrified that bouncing it once will cause it to completely derail.

I'll update as soon as I begin pulling things apart. I'm thinking its most likely an issue keeping tension through the rpms.