Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[Teppka]

Just asked my tuner who was tuning my BRZ, he also said it’s octane value, not RON.

[Teppka]

Thanks. My main concern is engine reliability, not what max hp I will get. Though it should make sense to invest so it should improve performance.

[Teppka]

If you’re still interested in gas available in Turkey, my BRZ user manual reads that I have to use RON 98 gas which as I understand equals to 94 octane, and standard we have is 95 octane. So there is nothing extraordinary here. And as I mentioned 97 octane is also available as premium fuel.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Teppka

Hi to all. I’m thinking about force induction for my 2019 AT BRZ, but as probably everyone else I’m concerned with reliability. I have completely stock engine with custom catback exhaust with increased diameter.

As I went through the forum I saw people say 7psi safe boost for pump gas, which is 95 octane in east Europe where I live. I’m thinking about JR C30 SC kit for my BRZ. Don’t plan to track it but I just can’t get used to the torque dip. So I want to go with most reliable FI solution, no crazy horsepower.

My question is what psi boost does C30 kit provides? Interestingly enough I couldn’t find this info in the internet or on JR product page. Also, to make sure it will be reliable, do I need to add internal supporting mods like forged rods/pistons? If yes will it guarantee that engine?

*up to* about 9psi. Actual will vary with ambient conditions.

[RS1YUZU]

Has anyone else had a boost leak issue with their hose clamps getting loose and sliding off? I had this problem at the track last year at Laguna Seca while racing with 86 Drive Challenge. Luckily for me there were plenty of other Frs/Brz/86 owners there who were able to help me get the hose clamps back on and secured. I changed out all of my hose clamps for T-bolt clamps since then and haven’t run into the same problem since then, but I also haven’t been to the track since last year due to the rainfall and not having time with an engine build I’m currently working on. If anyone else has had this problem or knows of a better solution to this, please let me know. I’m open to all suggestions and feedback.

[KillerBMotorsport]

Originally Posted by RS1YUZU

Has anyone else had a boost leak issue with their hose clamps getting loose and sliding off? I had this problem at the track last year at Laguna Seca while racing with 86 Drive Challenge. Luckily for me there were plenty of other Frs/Brz/86 owners there who were able to help me get the hose clamps back on and secured. I changed out all of my hose clamps for T-bolt clamps since then and haven’t run into the same problem since then, but I also haven’t been to the track since last year due to the rainfall and not having time with an engine build I’m currently working on. If anyone else has had this problem or knows of a better solution to this, please let me know. I’m open to all suggestions and feedback.

T-bolt clamps will leak too. We've gone to high torque Norma worn drive clamps. They've held 48psi without issue. If you really want to spend money, you can get a constant torque version. Another trick is to apply dome dish soap or hair spray; lets the couplers slide on and they stick in place.

[JDMChris]

Originally Posted by RS1YUZU

Has anyone else had a boost leak issue with their hose clamps getting loose and sliding off? I had this problem at the track last year at Laguna Seca while racing with 86 Drive Challenge. Luckily for me there were plenty of other Frs/Brz/86 owners there who were able to help me get the hose clamps back on and secured. I changed out all of my hose clamps for T-bolt clamps since then and haven’t run into the same problem since then, but I also haven’t been to the track since last year due to the rainfall and not having time with an engine build I’m currently working on. If anyone else has had this problem or knows of a better solution to this, please let me know. I’m open to all suggestions and feedback.

Sounds like you stripped out the clamps. The Clamps supplied in the kit actually have more clamping power than T-Bolt clamps, BUT people over torque them and strip them.

[JDMChris]

Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport

T-bolt clamps will leak too. We've gone to high torque Norma worn drive clamps. They've held 48psi without issue. If you really want to spend money, you can get a constant torque version. Another trick is to apply dome dish soap or hair spray; lets the couplers slide on and they stick in place.

Yes. The clamps in the JR kit are Norma clamps.

[Wingnutt]

Hello folks, I just joined forced induction fraternity and I have a question(s).

I opted for the JR C38 factory tuned kit, which of course comes with the ECUTEK and a tune for the System.

So while doing "spirited" driving the setup feels great, loving the extra power.



That said, during normal civilized driving I.E. low rpm (below 3000 or so) slow acceleration etc its a bit.. rough. when accelerating at partial throttle it is not smooth, i can only describe it as "lumpy" which I admit sounds kinda retarded, but you get the idea its just not a nice smooth pull.



Also at idle the rpm surges up and down from 500 to 1000 rpm and twice now (in 3 days) the car has just died while in neutral at a light.




Ive been around FI cars a while and I know the symptoms of a boost/vacuum leak but that doesn't seem to be the issue, and of course Ive checked. My guess is its the tune.

From what I understand then "factory" tune that is included is based on a car that is otherwise stock and the SC being the only mod. I have a fully cat-less setup, so Ive got more flow, so I think the factory tune is very likely sub optimal.

So, coming from openflash (when I was running NA E85) there were quite a few "off the shelf" tunes for different setups (header/exhaust etc) is there anything like that for this system or do I have to dole out more $$$ to get a custom tune, if that's the case what E-tune company do you guys like the most?

Thanks for any help and answers!

- Jason

[tomm.brz]

if you have a Carb tune made from Jackson... it s atrocious, custom tune is Very suggested while FI, will drive smoother and pull stronger

[JDMChris]

Originally Posted by Wingnutt

Hello folks, I just joined forced induction fraternity and I have a question(s).

I opted for the JR C38 factory tuned kit, which of course comes with the ECUTEK and a tune for the System.

So while doing "spirited" driving the setup feels great, loving the extra power.



That said, during normal civilized driving I.E. low rpm (below 3000 or so) slow acceleration etc its a bit.. rough. when accelerating at partial throttle it is not smooth, i can only describe it as "lumpy" which I admit sounds kinda retarded, but you get the idea its just not a nice smooth pull.



Also at idle the rpm surges up and down from 500 to 1000 rpm and twice now (in 3 days) the car has just died while in neutral at a light.




Ive been around FI cars a while and I know the symptoms of a boost/vacuum leak but that doesn't seem to be the issue, and of course Ive checked. My guess is its the tune.

From what I understand then "factory" tune that is included is based on a car that is otherwise stock and the SC being the only mod. I have a fully cat-less setup, so Ive got more flow, so I think the factory tune is very likely sub optimal.

So, coming from openflash (when I was running NA E85) there were quite a few "off the shelf" tunes for different setups (header/exhaust etc) is there anything like that for this system or do I have to dole out more $$$ to get a custom tune, if that's the case what E-tune company do you guys like the most?

Thanks for any help and answers!

- Jason

The Factory Tuned System requires stock header and Catalytic converter. If you are running without it, it is LEAN. Get a tune now or say bye to your engine!

[JDMChris]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

if you have a Carb tune made from Jackson... it s atrocious, custom tune is Very suggested while FI, will drive smoother and pull stronger

It is not bad. A custom tune will net you barely any gains. If you had a issue with the CARB tune.... You installed something incorrectly, or had other modifications which the CARB tune does not support.

[Wingnutt]

Ok so we have two camps..

It should be ok

&

Your gonna blow up your car.


Confusion has increased.

[PikachuBRZ]

Originally Posted by Wingnutt

I opted for the JR C38 factory tuned kit, which of course comes with the ECUTEK and a tune for the System.

I have a fully cat-less setup, so Ive got more flow, so I think the factory tune is very likely sub optimal.

This is almost definitely your problem. The factory tune is designed around a completely stock car. Having no cats and a full exhaust is wayyyy different than a stock car as far as volumetric efficiency and tuning. I wouldn't be surprised if you started throwing codes without the cats as the factory tune is supposed to be CARB legal. You're definitely going to want to get it properly tuned. I can't tell you if there are OTS tunes for the JRSC but I know you're 3/4 of the way to a solid tune from somebody like CSG. Maybe (BIG MAYBE) you can get a refund for the inability to use the factory tune and apply it towards the custom tune. I can't personally vouch for any specific tuners as I'm currently waiting on my shipment to get my first etune myself but I know there have been several listed in this post. I can attest to CSGs customer service alone really making me want to suggest them. I hope that at least helps get you going in the right direction.