Failure After J02 Recall - Discussion Threads

[THEMFCORNMAN]

Found out exactly what the morons did to my motor. Didnt shim rocker arms correctly and used 2 types of fipg ill update after seeing what the dealer who did the work says

[maslin]

The valve clearance shouldn’t change with the spring replacement. The Subaru document has the clearances checked and documented before the repair. Then checked, and fixed if needed, after. I don’t recall seeing that in the Toyota instructions.

Valves out of adjustment don’t blow up engines. Noisy, hard to start if too tight maybe. But you aren’t taking out a bottom end with loose/tight valves. Too many horror stories to follow what exactly is wrong in your case.

Lots of people reporting grey vs black sealant. Not a big deal in my book, especially looking at the complete engine. The majority of sealed components aren’t being removed for the recall, the black/grey combo has been there and will be there in the future.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by c.klingner

Update on my car. After 2 months the dealership has finally narrowed the problem down to a bad direct injector seal. They are saying it was the dealership that did the short block so it is covered and Subaru has agreed to pay for everything. Still haven’t come up with why my car was low on oil but I will continue to monitor that when I get my car back and if it happens again I’ll jiat get it towed to the dealer so they can figure it out. So the end results were that I had 3-4 valve that were improperly shimmed and they had to reset the valve lash, and a bad injector seal. Between maint and labor it would have cost me almost 4K to fix if Subaru wouldn’t have picked up the tab. Hopefully this is the last time I have to deal with this kind of thing as it’s been a stressful couple months. 2 Quick question though, if the injector seal was bad shouldn’t that have shown up when they pressure tested the cylinders? If it’s not creating a seal I would expect it to be leaking when the test was performed. Also, if the valve lash is not correct could that have caused the seal to blow? Just curious about those. I will update the list with the new info.

Yes a bad DI seal would show up on a compression/leak down test.

[BRZnut]

General question for those that work with the sealant used to put these engines back together.......since some of those with the failure found sealant in the oil pick up screen, wouldn't that mean the sealant was still "wet" and not "cured" when the tech started the engine?? How long does it take for sealant to harden up completely?? Maybe the engine should not be filled with oil nor started for 24 hrs after the recall???

[maslin]

Originally Posted by BRZnut

General question for those that work with the sealant used to put these engines back together.......since some of those with the failure found sealant in the oil pick up screen, wouldn't that mean the sealant was still "wet" and not "cured" when the tech started the engine?? How long does it take for sealant to harden up completely?? Maybe the engine should not be filled with oil nor started for 24 hrs after the recall???

It’s not like that, the stuff is tacky and sticky. It doesn’t move and drip unless you’ve applied way way too much. There shouldn’t be any “bead” to the inside. The film goes on the flat, the cut should contain the extra to the inside.

Too much sealant, or applied to the incorrect area, and you have that big bead that could come loose.

All of the pick up screen pictures I’ve seen look like sealant that has been removed and dropped into the engine. Just looks like careless work to me.

This stuff isn’t “RTV” like you buy in a tube at Autozone. It’s like two steps short of windshield sealant. About twice as thick as caulk.

Years and years ago at training they had little mock up for sealant application. Two thick chunks of plexiglass bolted together with a 1, 2, 3 and 4mm bead of sealant. Clamped between two solid pieces, that bead spreads really far. You don’t need a lot of this stuff, I feel the specification in the work documents are excessive, 150 or 200% of what’s needed.

A 4mm bead has a volume of 12.6mm^3. Spread out to 1mm thick, you have a 12.6mm wide strip to seal a 5mm wide cover.

I’ll try to get some pictures or video of the stuff we use.

[ka-t_240]

Originally Posted by BRZnut

General question for those that work with the sealant used to put these engines back together.......since some of those with the failure found sealant in the oil pick up screen, wouldn't that mean the sealant was still "wet" and not "cured" when the tech started the engine?? How long does it take for sealant to harden up completely?? Maybe the engine should not be filled with oil nor started for 24 hrs after the recall???

When I have used it on other engines/parts we usually wait double the instructed "cure" time. Just to ensure the stuff is fully cured before exposing to fluids/heat. However, not enough cure time isn't going to make the FIPG magically fall out go away etc as said above. The clogged tubes are result of either not properly cleaning of old stuff allowing it to get in places it shouldn't or over application.

[tobin]

I have scheduled my visit to the dealership in early May, and after reading these threads I am seriously considering skipping the recall altogether.

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by tobin

I have scheduled my visit to the dealership in early May, and after reading these threads I am seriously considering skipping the recall altogether.

That's what I'm doing - at this point I'll bring my car in only if I'm feeling in a "Russian roulette" mood.

[Edward_]

Originally Posted by tobin

I have scheduled my visit to the dealership in early May, and after reading these threads I am seriously considering skipping the recall altogether.

Originally Posted by bfrank1972

That's what I'm doing - at this point I'll bring my car in only if I'm feeling in a "Russian roulette" mood.

Don't fucking do it. This is a nightmare.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by tobin

I have scheduled my visit to the dealership in early May, and after reading these threads I am seriously considering skipping the recall altogether.

Contrary to what everybody else is saying I would counter that this is the perfect time to get it done (if you want it done at all). The instructions have been updated and some pretty strong messages sent to the dealers so they should be on the top of their game now. We don't have a time line when the failures were the most prevalent since nobody seemed to think that was important info but things should have improved by now.

To counter my own point though I will say that I would never of had it done right from the start even if there had been zero failures from repairs. If your springs were going to break they would have already so why fix what ain't broke?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Edward_

Despite this, and all logic pointing towards faulty workmanship, and the fact that my motor blew up 500 miles after having it torn down, and the fact that it only has 49k and been babied its whole life, both dealerships are saying this was caused by "outside influences." I bought this car for 21k a few years ago, and still owe money on it. They're trying to charge me 5k for a used motor, or 7k for a rebuild, plus 1300 for the teardown/diagnostic. I'm fucked. Like, actual fucked. I'll be paying off a car that doesn't run for the next 18ish months. Thanks a ton, Toyota. Go fuck yourselves. I'll never touch a Toyota or Subaru again in my life.

Lawyer up. Let them explain the "outside influences" to a judge and see how that works for them.

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Lawyer up. Let them explain the "outside influences" to a judge and see how that works for them.

Easy to say "lawyer up" when you're not paying for the lawyers

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by bfrank1972

Easy to say "lawyer up" when you're not paying for the lawyers

Yes it is. But if $2,000 for lawyers, $7,000 for an engine or paying for a useless car are my options I know which way I would go. Keep in mind if (when!) he wins it then legal fees can be part of the settlement. I know the last thing I would do is just roll over and take it.

[nextcar]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

To counter my own point though I will say that I would never of had it done right from the start even if there had been zero failures from repairs. If your springs were going to break they would have already so why fix what ain't broke?

...said the man who doesn't live in California, where failure to do the recall results in not being able to renew your registration...

Actually I'm just messin' with you, because I know you are well aware that circumstances vary for individuals.

My car is currently being scheduled for the recall; but luckily I am in a position both financially and with extra vehicles that even if the worst happens it will not be a hardship.

I feel for those owners that are, like me, forced to do the recall but unlike me find the prospect stressful and potentially a true financial burden. Seems like other than wishing them well there is really nothing that can be done other than hoping the individual dealerships "do the right thing" if the repair goes poorly. Even with proper training, mistakes will happen...