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Old 09-09-2017, 05:14 AM   #687
keithr
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Also, it's worth noting that my clutch return spring is still in the car. I want to leave it in because I commute in traffic on some days and I want to have a light clutch. I just need to get muscle memory down for where the grab point is and how much time to spend on my clutch throws.

The clutch in these cars is not heavy. To me, it does not feel any heavier without the spring. What it does feel is more natural and linear. You can try taking the spring out and see how you like it. If you want to, you can always put it back in or try the MTEC spring which is in between the stock spring and no spring. Personally I think it's a lot harder to develop the muscle memory and identify the feel of the clutch with that stupid spring creating an artificial feel.

I drive in plenty of rush hour stop and go traffic and not having the clutch spring is a total nonissue.

I've been driving manuals since they were called "standards" and even I get the herky jerkys on shifting every so often in this car. Don't overthink it just let yourself get a feel for it.
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Old 09-10-2017, 02:40 AM   #688
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The clutch in these cars is not heavy. To me, it does not feel any heavier without the spring. What it does feel is more natural and linear. You can try taking the spring out and see how you like it. If you want to, you can always put it back in or try the MTEC spring which is in between the stock spring and no spring. Personally I think it's a lot harder to develop the muscle memory and identify the feel of the clutch with that stupid spring creating an artificial feel.

I drive in plenty of rush hour stop and go traffic and not having the clutch spring is a total nonissue.

I've been driving manuals since they were called "standards" and even I get the herky jerkys on shifting every so often in this car. Don't overthink it just let yourself get a feel for it.
Awesome... I'm thinking of doing the spring removal now. Did you do the clutch pedal adjustment as well? Or just the spring removal?

I have a little free play in the clutch pedal since doing the clutch pedal adjustment. Will this make the free play even larger?

Thanks!
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Old 09-10-2017, 01:37 PM   #689
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Awesome... I'm thinking of doing the spring removal now. Did you do the clutch pedal adjustment as well? Or just the spring removal?

I have a little free play in the clutch pedal since doing the clutch pedal adjustment. Will this make the free play even larger?

Thanks!


I removed the spring and adjusted the pedal to slightly lower than the brake pedal. After a couple years like that, I recently moved the clutch pedal up a little bit so it's just a tad higher than the brake pedal now and I feel it works better all around, at least for me and my car.

There's a little bit of free play at the top of the pedal travel but that's unavoidable. Adjusting the pedal doesn't make it any worse. Removing the spring makes it more obvious that it's there because the spring isn't pushing the pedal up to take up the slack. But it doesn't hurt anything as long as the clutch is fully returning on its own power.

Be sure to follow Ultramaroon's advice for verifying that the travel is correct and seating properly when released. It's really all quite simple to do once you've contorted yourself under the dashboard. Also be sure to set the sensor properly - the button does not have to be fully depressed to work. I left about a 1-2mm gap between the pedal and the button housing to ensure that it does not interfere with the pedal travel at all.
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Old 09-25-2017, 11:02 AM   #690
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Hi all -- I've read through about 15 pages of this thread but couldn't bring myself to read 50... so apologies if this has been covered before. I'm having an impossible time with actually turning the rod going into the clutch. Everything else was pretty easy -- I did the spring removal in about 5 min, loosening the nuts for clutch adj was 2 min, but after everything was loose I tried to spin the damn thing for 30min and it just wouldn't move. Tried it using hand, glove, pliers. Any tips?
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Old 09-25-2017, 01:38 PM   #691
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Hi all -- I've read through about 15 pages of this thread but couldn't bring myself to read 50... so apologies if this has been covered before. I'm having an impossible time with actually turning the rod going into the clutch. Everything else was pretty easy -- I did the spring removal in about 5 min, loosening the nuts for clutch adj was 2 min, but after everything was loose I tried to spin the damn thing for 30min and it just wouldn't move. Tried it using hand, glove, pliers. Any tips?
Heya!
Yea there is a lot of pages now haha.
To answer you, you have to push in the clutch pedal a bit with your other hand; this releases the tension on the rod, so that it becomes easy to turn
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Old 09-25-2017, 03:09 PM   #692
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Heya!
Yea there is a lot of pages now haha.
To answer you, you have to push in the clutch pedal a bit with your other hand; this releases the tension on the rod, so that it becomes easy to turn
Yes, i tried a little bit to a lot. I think i'll just drop by Home Depot on the way home this evening and get some small pliers. Thing is stuck in there pretty good it seems. Thanks again for the write up!
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Old 09-26-2017, 08:55 AM   #693
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Yes, i tried a little bit to a lot. I think i'll just drop by Home Depot on the way home this evening and get some small pliers. Thing is stuck in there pretty good it seems. Thanks again for the write up!
Try pushing in and pulling out the pedal just a little bit with one hand and use your other hand to turn the rod. I put a nitrile glove on the hand to do the turning and it really helps me get a grip. Good luck!
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Old 09-26-2017, 11:54 AM   #694
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Alright who's done this and the MTEC clutch spring? I'm sure a comparison is in this thread already but I can't find it...

- Andrew
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Old 09-26-2017, 12:04 PM   #695
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Alright who's done this and the MTEC clutch spring? I'm sure a comparison is in this thread already but I can't find it...

- Andrew
Here's a review someone did.
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Old 10-01-2017, 09:06 PM   #696
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Heya!
Yea there is a lot of pages now haha.
To answer you, you have to push in the clutch pedal a bit with your other hand; this releases the tension on the rod, so that it becomes easy to turn
Hey Koji, quick question. I still can't get my leg to adapt to the clutch. It is miles better than the stock grab height, but my leg just isn't "feeling" the grab point and I get some lurchy/jerky shifts still. I think the clutch return spring might have to go.

Is there anything wrong with going spring-less and adjusted grab height? Will it cause wear to my master cylinder or any seals? I don't know if thats rumor mill or if there is any evidence behind that. I don't mind having slop at the top of the pedal. I already have some slop because my grab height has been adjusted to be pretty low.

I feel like that would truly solve my problems. I don't mind the feeling of a slightly heavier clutch if it means I'll be shifting well. I won't skip leg day at the gym.

Thanks
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Old 10-04-2017, 05:01 PM   #697
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Heya xD

There looks to be a ton of ppl here who removed the spring and reported back some great results!
Me personally, I have never removed the spring in either my 2013 or 2017; I’ve just gotten used to it.
For the record, I believe I’m realy smooth now, and I’ve never had any issues with it this way. I have had to adjust my seat to help me stay smooth while still being fast though. I’ve found that moving my seat bottom back a couple clicks helped me smoothen out without even having to think about it. Try that =p
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Old 10-11-2017, 01:38 PM   #698
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Ive read a lot of page on the tread but couldnt answer my question. I remove the spring when i got my 86 and the pedal felt a lot better. Today i did the clutch grab adjustement because i was feeling like it was grabbing when the pedal was almost all the way up. I adjust the pedal to be a bit under the brake as i read on the forum, but i feel like the pedal is only lower and the grab point is at the same place(when clutch almost all the way up). Is there anything i can do to make the grab point lower without making the pedal lower? I feel like its something to do woth the master cylinder.
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Old 10-11-2017, 03:27 PM   #699
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Ive read a lot of page on the tread but couldnt answer my question. I remove the spring when i got my 86 and the pedal felt a lot better. Today i did the clutch grab adjustement because i was feeling like it was grabbing when the pedal was almost all the way up. I adjust the pedal to be a bit under the brake as i read on the forum, but i feel like the pedal is only lower and the grab point is at the same place(when clutch almost all the way up). Is there anything i can do to make the grab point lower without making the pedal lower? I feel like its something to do woth the master cylinder.
Here you go friend.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77390
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Old 11-21-2017, 01:44 PM   #700
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Ive read a lot of page on the tread but couldnt answer my question. I remove the spring when i got my 86 and the pedal felt a lot better. Today i did the clutch grab adjustement because i was feeling like it was grabbing when the pedal was almost all the way up. I adjust the pedal to be a bit under the brake as i read on the forum, but i feel like the pedal is only lower and the grab point is at the same place(when clutch almost all the way up). Is there anything i can do to make the grab point lower without making the pedal lower? I feel like its something to do woth the master cylinder.
I'm new to the FR-S as of two week ago, so someone can correct me if I'm mistaken here, but these clutch systems appear to be exactly the same as my 97 GST (Pedal, master, line, slave, fork). Adjusting the distance of the master push rod shown here doesn't affect clutch engagement, it adjusts the play of the pedal. Your clutch catches at the same point because of the wear on the clutch disk itself. As it wears that point will change over time. So you won't get rid of that. I'm too new to these systems to know where the stock engagement point should be. My gut tells me your very high engagement means you may be looking at a new clutch soon.

Anyways, the extra play at the top of the clutch pedal is actually a good thing. Taking the "free play" out of it by tightening the master push rod is actually putting more pressure on the clutch line (similar to as if you were pushing down the pedal). What this does is then pushes the fluid through the line to the slave cylinder and increases pressure the tighter you make it. This causes the slave push rod to put constant pressure on the fork. The fork (as we know) is what holds and engages the throwout bearing. By putting more pressure in the system, you are forcing the throwout bearing against the clutch pressure plate more and more. This will lead to more wear on both the throwout bearing AND the teeth of the clutch pressure plate. My suggestion would be to not mess with it unless you've replaced something in the clutch system and it needs adjustment.

Hope this helps

I did learn that the reason this darn FR-S clutch pedal is hard to use is because there's a spring somewhere down there. That'll be coming out within the week for sure.
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