HP In Perspective

[tahdizzle]

Originally Posted by Griever423

You're right about not needing any more HP; however, let's not delude ourselves. The BRZ is SLOW in a straight line.

Edited

[shiumai]

Originally Posted by tahdizzle

I remember people saying "You'll never be able to fill 1gb of hard drive!"

that was probably before you could download porn vids.

[orangeblue]

My first car was a 1994 TSi AWD. It could spin all four tires pretty easily.

[mike the snake]

I've had too many fast cars to count. The fastest only made 325whp but weighed only 1800 pounds.

The car before my BRZ was a BMW 135i with 400+whp.

I love my BRZ, and it was fun when all stock, but coming from the power of the 135, I decided I wanted more power.

BRZ/FRS with 300-350whp is like the perfect car.

[F1fletch]

It is all relative, a car that will do about 140 off the lot is not that slow...

I agree though Tcoat, it gets old hearing that. If I want fast I drive my 335is. I always think of this car as capable of quick but not fast.
I drive the AT and the tq is indeed the issue. With a tune and good headers I think it would be just fine. With just minimal changes (axle back, drop in, intake tube, 94 octane) it woke right up.

Keep it simple, keep it light, go real quick around corners.

[Ubersuber]

MGB was what a 1.8 producing maybe 90hp? Triumph GT 6 is very, very close in size and concept to our BRZ and it was 105 hp from a 2.0 litre inline 6 (lovely little engine, put out as much as 150 in 2.5 injected form).

My 1982 Alfa Romeo GTV6 with a very sophisticated oversquare 2.5 V6? 155 hp and 151 lb ft of torque.

No, this BRZ/FRS is not underpowered, it is just fine.

As for the torque dip, actually it is a double peak torque curve resulting from the variable valve timing. Porsche Cayman/Boxster engines display exactly the same pattern.

We should all appreciate the fact that the torque is pretty flat overall with low end torque at only about 90% of peak.

Driven normally the torque dip is not an issue. You drive below it when driving normally in traffic and above it when pressing on with gusto. Strong engine for its size and no forced induction...a supercharger would be sweet though.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

I am new to the forum so my apologies if I am repeating something already said. I am getting a bit weary of people telling me "ya nice car but I hear they are too slow and need more HP".......

Sorry for babbling, just wanted that off my chest even though I know I am preaching to the converted on this forum.

Hi Tcoat and welcome to our forum .....

Yep, I hear ya.

People been telling me that for years.

In 1970 I bought a new MGB; it wasn't the fastest vehicle on the road, but it handled well and it was fun to drive.

In 2006, I bought a new MX5 (Miata); it wasn't the fasted vehicle on the road, but it handled well and it was fun to drive.

In 2013, I bought a new FRS; it isn't the fastest vehicle on the road, but it handles well and it's fun to drive.


humfrz - in a rut .....

[OICU812]

The days of simply turning a distributor cap to change your timing Ahhh sometimes I miss the simplicity. However for a modern car our ars are very easy to work on...very.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by OICU812

The days of simply turning a distributor cap to change your timing Ahhh sometimes I miss the simplicity. However for a modern car our ars are very easy to work on...very.

Yep from the comfort of the laptop you can

Adjust the carburetor jetting/fueling, accelerator pump,adjust the idle screw

Adjust the timing and the points and re-curve the distributor advance

Re-grind the cams to change overlap and duration ect (pity you cant do lift )

The car comes standard with a bunch of sensors to monitor everything and sundry AFR,knock, coolant/oil temps etc

If you get it all wrong you can put it back to stock settings in 2 minutes.

have not even got a spanner out yet

[OICU812]

Originally Posted by steve99

Yep from the comfort of the laptop you can

Adjust the carburetor jetting/fueling, accelerator pump,adjust the idle screw

Adjust the timing and the points and re-curve the distributor advance

Re-grind the cams to change overlap and duration ect (pity you cant do lift )

The car comes standard with a bunch of sensors to monitor everything and sundry AFR,knock, coolant/oil temps etc

If you get it all wrong you can put it back to stock settings in 2 minutes.

have not even got a spanner out yet

Oh I know. Just was referring to mechanical simplicity is all. I used to carry 4 wrenches in my old ford pickups back in the day and did almost all you could do with em. I do appreciate much of what tech has brought us however.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by OICU812

Oh I know. Just was referring to mechanical simplicity is all. I used to carry 4 wrenches in my old ford pickups back in the day and did almost all you could do with em. I do appreciate much of what tech has brought us however.

Just remembering the "old ways"

[Tcoat]

quote=OICU812;1862699]The days of simply turning a distributor cap to change your timing Ahhh sometimes I miss the simplicity. However for a modern car our ars are very easy to work on...very.[/quote]
Yep just loosen cap and turn it till it sounded right. If you were really uppity or at an actual garage the may put a timing light on it and see what it really was but usually didn't matter much. Of course I was just trying to keep them running so I could get to work not worried about how well or making them last for years. I think if I total up what I paid for all the cars on that list it wouldn't break $5000.

[arghx7]

I can't even stand carburetors on lawn mowers

[Tcoat]

Ya need little tiny turbos!Can hear it now "yep... 4 ounces of boost. Brought her up from 5 to 7.2 hp. Nothin' can touch me now"