Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread - Page 172 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

rusty959 · 10-24-2013, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary in NJ

You will need a 100A continuous duty 24V Contactor (relay) like this model from White-Rogers, model 124-114111

White Rodgers 124-114111 Solenoid, SPNO, 24 VDC Isolated Coil, Continuous Duty, Normally Open Continuous Contact Rating 100 Amps, Inrush 400 Amps - Amazon.com

You would put this on the positive from the 24V battery pack to the controller. This is an active low device so you would need to find a circuit that goes low (-) when the ignition is active.

With this in place you can leave the ESC in ARM without fear of discharging the battery.

I don't see why you are wanting to add resistance on a high current line when you already have a method to control it that requires only a tiny slide switch.

At the worst and no one can figure out how to trick it from the wires going to the volt meter, just open the thing up and wire a small relay across the switch contacts. Atleast then you won't possibly be affecting system performance.

Also, depending on how constant these things can pull 3.5 and 4.5kw, that relay wouldn't be strong enough anyways.

mtimney · 10-24-2013, 09:48 AM

Fenton or Rob...

Is there a way you might get an ESC to Unichip so they can make a map for the system? This would help me out...as well as open up a new potential market for both Rob and Unichip.

Gary in NJ · 10-24-2013, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rusty959

I don't see why you are wanting to add resistance on a high current line when you already have a method to control it that requires only a tiny slide switch.

A few times I have forgotten to disarm (switch to off) the ESC. Luckily both of these times I was only out of the car for less then an hour, but there is potential to have the batteries drain overnight or longer. A solenoid would make battery management idiot-proof.

Rob will have to comment on the suitability of a 100A continuous duty contactor. 3500watts @ 24VDC equates to 145A. However I don't know if that is inrush power or duty cycle. The contactor I linked has a 400A inrush capability.

fenton · 10-24-2013, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtimney

Fenton or Rob...

Is there a way you might get an ESC to Unichip so they can make a map for the system? This would help me out...as well as open up a new potential market for both Rob and Unichip.

I believe he has talked to unichip but right now it isn't the best option due to some of its limitations. Can it datalog?

Currently you have the option of ecutek or brz edit which is a great start. These are the two most powerful software options that allow full data logging to make sure everything is running right.

Now there is always options for people to go to different platforms.... I think someone is working with open flash tablet right now to get a base map.

As time goes on there will be more and more options but you want to make sure the choice you make is going to be a safe one. If it isn't designed for FI with data logging you would be taking a risk.

Rob hasn't sent any kits to any vendors.... He wants the everyday people to get a chance to test it, beat on it and make mistakes that all humans do.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Robftss · 10-24-2013, 10:42 AM

Name: DPDT switch.JPG
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All who are running the system:

The green an yellow wire need to be open for 100% shut down.

A DPDT relay, 12V/2-5 Amp, can be soldered in as shown.

The relay coil can be activated by a switched 12V (Best to find a switched 12v+ in the fuse box next to the controller.)

@Pug did something similar, but integrated it into his LCD screen.
@GaryNJ, no need for the heavy contactor

Rob

Thatruth2001 · 10-24-2013, 10:56 AM

Gotta love Rob's proactive nature to improve the product.

jpit · 10-24-2013, 11:11 AM

Rob,

Do you have a part number for the relay? Is that something that is readily available?

Robftss · 10-24-2013, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpit

Rob,

Do you have a part number for the relay? Is that something that is readily available?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062483

Or....you could go old school...mounted on the dash

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062538

Gary in NJ · 10-24-2013, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robftss

A DPDT relay, 12V/2-5 Amp, can be soldered in as shown.

The relay coil can be activated by a switched 12V (Best to find a switched 12v+ in the fuse box next to the controller.)

As always, very good info.

So we need jump a fuse in the fuse box for something that is always on when the ignition is on...say the instrument cluster or the HVAC fan. Using a multimeter I can determine which side of the fuse socket is the protected side.

Yeah, if you have a part number of a suggested DPDT I'll solder this in to the wire harness.

Sojhinn · 10-24-2013, 07:46 PM

Quick response: System is now working. Feels great. More later.

Sojhinn · 10-24-2013, 09:50 PM

Just as a quick reference to Rob and anyone else. An easy way to tell if one of your batteries is bad is when the batteries charge quickly. I.e they hit full charge within a couple of seconds after a long wot.

Also I'm hitting the cel like crazy. Any luck with toma rob?

Thatruth2001 · 10-24-2013, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Just as a quick reference to Rob and anyone else. An easy way to tell if one of your batteries is bad is when the batteries charge quickly. I.e they hit full charge within a couple of seconds after a long wot.

Also I'm hitting the cel like crazy. Any luck with toma rob?

Only a matter of time..... Have fun and don't burn through a tank of gas too fast. You will now have a new appreciation of the FA20.

jpit · 10-25-2013, 01:33 AM

Installed the relay but haven't been able to find a switched 12v supply in the engine fuse
block. Most of the fuses have power all the time or not at all. Anybody else try it?

Sojhinn · 10-25-2013, 01:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpit

Installed the relay but haven't been able to find a switched 12v supply in the engine fuse
block. Most of the fuses have power all the time or not at all. Anybody else try it?

Any chance you have An aftermarket radio?

10-24-2013, 07:46 PM	#2404
Sojhinn Lightning McQueen Driver Join Date: May 2012 Drives: Limited Red 6MT BRZ Location: San Diego Posts: 2,242 Thanks: 753 Thanked 1,167 Times in 644 Posts Mentioned: 77 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	Quick response: System is now working. Feels great. More later. __________________ Nicknamed Lightning by my Kids. Installed Mods: Phantom Electric Super Charger \| Open Flash Tune \| Perrin OP/ HFC Front pipe \| Invidia Q300 catback \| ST Suspension \| JDL Header \| Flex Fuel

10-24-2013, 09:50 PM	#2405
Sojhinn Lightning McQueen Driver Join Date: May 2012 Drives: Limited Red 6MT BRZ Location: San Diego Posts: 2,242 Thanks: 753 Thanked 1,167 Times in 644 Posts Mentioned: 77 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	Just as a quick reference to Rob and anyone else. An easy way to tell if one of your batteries is bad is when the batteries charge quickly. I.e they hit full charge within a couple of seconds after a long wot. Also I'm hitting the cel like crazy. Any luck with toma rob? __________________ Nicknamed Lightning by my Kids. Installed Mods: Phantom Electric Super Charger \| Open Flash Tune \| Perrin OP/ HFC Front pipe \| Invidia Q300 catback \| ST Suspension \| JDL Header \| Flex Fuel

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10-24-2013, 09:48 AM	#2396
mtimney Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Drives: 2013 BRZ Limited Location: NH Posts: 101 Thanks: 14 Thanked 36 Times in 12 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Fenton or Rob... Is there a way you might get an ESC to Unichip so they can make a map for the system? This would help me out...as well as open up a new potential market for both Rob and Unichip.

10-24-2013, 10:42 AM	#2399
Robftss Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Drives: VW Location: Canada Posts: 270 Thanks: 190 Thanked 392 Times in 145 Posts Mentioned: 109 Post(s) Tagged: 3 Thread(s)	All who are running the system: The green an yellow wire need to be open for 100% shut down. A DPDT relay, 12V/2-5 Amp, can be soldered in as shown. The relay coil can be activated by a switched 12V (Best to find a switched 12v+ in the fuse box next to the controller.) @Pug did something similar, but integrated it into his LCD screen. @GaryNJ, no need for the heavy contactor Rob

10-24-2013, 10:56 AM	#2400
Thatruth2001 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: Raven FR-S Location: Vancouver, WA Posts: 295 Thanks: 10 Thanked 184 Times in 87 Posts Mentioned: 27 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Gotta love Rob's proactive nature to improve the product.

10-24-2013, 11:11 AM	#2401
jpit Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: Subaru BRZ Location: Port Angeles, WA Posts: 338 Thanks: 24 Thanked 234 Times in 86 Posts Mentioned: 22 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	Rob, Do you have a part number for the relay? Is that something that is readily available?

10-25-2013, 01:33 AM	#2407
jpit Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: Subaru BRZ Location: Port Angeles, WA Posts: 338 Thanks: 24 Thanked 234 Times in 86 Posts Mentioned: 22 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	Installed the relay but haven't been able to find a switched 12v supply in the engine fuse block. Most of the fuses have power all the time or not at all. Anybody else try it?

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