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Old 02-20-2016, 09:05 PM   #29
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Cheers guys. Yeah I didn't even consider this being a risk because I installed the lines (or so I thought) the same way as I did on my other BRZ. But now I know better!
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Old 02-20-2016, 11:23 PM   #30
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Awesome you found the problem. Wrap the lines with sheathing or something to prevent future rubbing. I always get odd look when people look at my truck or when I install something for some one. Everything is always wrapped with sheathing and heat tape and exhaust wrap and deadener. It looks weird even ugly at times but I'm never had chaffing problems or problems with leaks that weren't a defective hose or a loose fitting.
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Old 02-21-2016, 04:15 AM   #31
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Ideally you'd get a shop to clear out the system before you open it. Surely there's some refrigerant left in the system, and its really awful for the environment if you let it go to the atmosphere. It's literally a crime to let it happen, but only if you're certified to work on A/C.

...which is the most moot law I've ever heard of. But I promise it's true.
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Old 02-21-2016, 06:23 AM   #32
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Ideally you'd get a shop to clear out the system before you open it. Surely there's some refrigerant left in the system, and its really awful for the environment if you let it go to the atmosphere. It's literally a crime to let it happen, but only if you're certified to work on A/C.

...which is the most moot law I've ever heard of. But I promise it's true.
You know I never did understand that. I had the opportunity to get a/c licensed and I was like nah, nevermind.
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Old 02-21-2016, 02:57 PM   #33
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Wrap the lines with sheathing or something to prevent future rubbing.
Yeah I use DEI fireproof sleeving on all my aftermarket lines but I thought it would be kind of redundant on stainless braided lines, but I will do it anyways as well as reroute them.

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Ideally you'd get a shop to clear out the system before you open it. Surely there's some refrigerant left in the system, and its really awful for the environment if you let it go to the atmosphere. It's literally a crime to let it happen, but only if you're certified to work on A/C.

...which is the most moot law I've ever heard of. But I promise it's true.
Cheers thanks for the info. The hole is big since its been busted for a month now, the size of a quarter. I'm sure it's all been released to the atmosphere by now so I'm just going to go ahead and replace it. I don't want anyone else mucking with my car to replace that line.
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Old 02-21-2016, 03:13 PM   #34
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I don't want anyone else mucking with my car to replace that line.
Bears mentioning for everyone reading this. If a refrigeration system has been opened to the atmosphere it must be completely evacuated before being charged.

This is not an option.
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Old 02-21-2016, 04:23 PM   #35
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You can chance it by replacing and filling but like ultra stated. I highly highly recommend having a shop vacuum it or you can rent one from autozone with a gauge set for around 200.
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Old 02-21-2016, 05:00 PM   #36
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I'm sure it's all been released to the atmosphere by now so I'm just going to go ahead and replace it.
Once you replace the line you MUST pull a vacuum on the system to ensure that there are no leaks, that you have pulled all the moisture out of the system and that you are recharging with the correct volume of refrigerant. If you try to just charge the system up again with cans from Autozone, it will never work correctly, and moisture trapped in the system will ruin the drier (if it hasn't already). You usually have to have a vacuum on it to be able to pull in the refrigerant at all.

Further, compressors often require oil to function properly. If this compressor requires an oil charge with the refrigerant, you will need to know the correct volume of oil to use. Without it the compressor will make a horrible grinding noise and stop working.

You can buy the gauges and the vacuum pump to do all this yourself, but seriously, I wouldn't bother if I were you. After you replace the line, take it to a reputable garage or A/C shop. It usually costs between $80 and $150 for them to hook up the machine, evacuate the system and recharge, and they can usually do it while you wait. Ask them to pull a vacuum on the system and hold it to make sure you don't have any leaks from the repair.
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Old 02-21-2016, 05:08 PM   #37
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............... After you replace the line, take it to a reputable garage or A/C shop. It usually costs between $80 and $150 for them to hook up the machine, evacuate the system and recharge, and they can usually do it while you wait. Ask them to pull a vacuum on the system and hold it to make sure you don't have any leaks from the repair.
There you go, @rb6freak ...... now, don't stubborn up on us .......



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Old 02-23-2016, 12:14 AM   #38
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Will do, thanks guys!
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Old 07-26-2016, 01:19 PM   #39
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Which relay in the engine bay fuse box is for the AC? Is it the heat one?
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:37 AM   #40
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Easy questions. If my coolant is out or low will this stop my AC compressor and Fans from kicking on? I have tested all fuses, Relays, hot-wired my compressor and fans. Everything works. Even cabin temp sensor is reading correctly. I don't have a gauge for my AC's coolant lines though.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:02 AM   #41
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Easy questions. If my coolant is out or low will this stop my AC compressor and Fans from kicking on? I have tested all fuses, Relays, hot-wired my compressor and fans. Everything works. Even cabin temp sensor is reading correctly. I don't have a gauge for my AC's coolant lines though.
No. It if low/empty it should still run and try to cool the car and just not succeed. Did you make any changes that could have impacted the wiring lately?
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:29 AM   #42
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No. It if low/empty it should still run and try to cool the car and just not succeed. Did you make any changes that could have impacted the wiring lately?
AC line has a hole in it due to the turbos intercooler piping rubbing on it. AC gauge shows 0 PSI. No Coolant pressure at all. Problem found, ordering a new line today.
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