follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Speed By Design
Register Garage Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > FT86CLUB Shared Forum > Member's Car Journals

Member's Car Journals Car journals by our members.


User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-08-2014, 04:02 PM   #57
chiefshayan
Senior Member
 
chiefshayan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: 2013 AT Firestorm FRS
Location: Berkeley
Posts: 433
Thanks: 185
Thanked 184 Times in 88 Posts
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by kavanagh View Post
Testing a canned tune for a vendor this weekend for automatics.

Super excited! There's a ton of power in the top third, and we're working on drivability now.

Stay tuned!


Sent from a secret volcano base using trained sharks
Awesome news. Keep us posted
chiefshayan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2014, 07:25 PM   #58
kavanagh
Fat on Corn Syrup
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2014 Asphalt FRS AT (yes, auto!)
Location: Secret Volcano Base in Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 801
Thanks: 3,372
Thanked 2,748 Times in 1,094 Posts
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1402442727.363211.jpg
Views: 862
Size:  264.7 KB

Guess what we're testing now.


Sent from a secret volcano base using trained sharks
kavanagh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2014, 11:34 AM   #59
ModBargains
 
ModBargains's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: FRS, M3
Location: La Habra, CA
Posts: 296
Thanks: 48
Thanked 135 Times in 103 Posts
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Looks sweet! Interesting call on the auto
ModBargains is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ModBargains For This Useful Post:
kavanagh (06-11-2014)
Old 06-11-2014, 02:45 PM   #60
kavanagh
Fat on Corn Syrup
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2014 Asphalt FRS AT (yes, auto!)
Location: Secret Volcano Base in Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 801
Thanks: 3,372
Thanked 2,748 Times in 1,094 Posts
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Thanks Michael!

Yeah, there's been some conjecture at the track that equally prepped manual and autos may be more competitive with each other than most think. We're working on getting our auto prepped to closely match a friend at the track so we can go heads up and see.

His first thought after driving our auto in basically stock trim was that a manual would not be able to keep up with an auto if the two cars were prepped the same.

That's a big part of the reason we're testing this canned tune for autos, so more auto drivers can get better support from the vendor community.
kavanagh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2014, 02:58 PM   #61
#maverick#
Senior Member
 
#maverick#'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Drives: 2006 Pontiac GP (SOLD), 2014 FR-S
Location: Chicago
Posts: 378
Thanks: 296
Thanked 145 Times in 113 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by kavanagh View Post
Thanks Michael!

Yeah, there's been some conjecture at the track that equally prepped manual and autos may be more competitive with each other than most think. We're working on getting our auto prepped to closely match a friend at the track so we can go heads up and see.

His first thought after driving our auto in basically stock trim was that a manual would not be able to keep up with an auto if the two cars were prepped the same.

That's a big part of the reason we're testing this canned tune for autos, so more auto drivers can get better support from the vendor community.
In to see results of this!
#maverick# is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to #maverick# For This Useful Post:
kavanagh (06-11-2014)
Old 06-18-2014, 04:00 PM   #62
kavanagh
Fat on Corn Syrup
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2014 Asphalt FRS AT (yes, auto!)
Location: Secret Volcano Base in Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 801
Thanks: 3,372
Thanked 2,748 Times in 1,094 Posts
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
We made huge strides in the drivability of the canned tune this week. We've done almost 1,000 miles of daily driving on it to dial in the throttle feel and engine response for the auto in the rpm range the auto wants to live in when not in manual mode. Everything from freeway commuter miles, to street attack, to canyon carving for hundreds of miles on end.
kavanagh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2014, 05:20 PM   #63
kavanagh
Fat on Corn Syrup
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2014 Asphalt FRS AT (yes, auto!)
Location: Secret Volcano Base in Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 801
Thanks: 3,372
Thanked 2,748 Times in 1,094 Posts
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
2014 Asphalt Auto FRS

15k mile service at the dealer today. Oil change and inspect everything blah blah blah.
I forgot to bring the black stone UOA kit so the service advisor caught some of my oil in a bottle. Good folks over there at Big Two. They also skipped tire rotation, air filter and car wash per request.

I did forget to grab camber bolts while I was there. Shit.


Sent from a secret volcano base using trained sharks
kavanagh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2014, 02:06 AM   #64
kavanagh
Fat on Corn Syrup
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2014 Asphalt FRS AT (yes, auto!)
Location: Secret Volcano Base in Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 801
Thanks: 3,372
Thanked 2,748 Times in 1,094 Posts
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
More notes for myself to reference later and maybe someone else will find them useful if they can find them at all using this crappy search function...

Brake Flush:

As per normal, if you touch your own car with any tool, it's on you to know what you're doing. Please get comfortable with the process by watching youtube videos or whatever. They don't even need to be about the FRS BRZ GT86.
It took just over 500 ml of brake fluid to completely flush out the DOT 3 factory fill. I probably could have done it with just under 500 ml if I knew exactly what I was doing, and will plan on that next time.
I swapped over to Motul RBF 600 DOT 4 fluid since we cooked our stock fluid at the track. I should have done this ages ago, but was honestly just a bit lazy.

I even did the flush in a semi lazy way - I didn't take the wheels off, I just put the car up on stands and did it all from under the car with a vacuum pump like this one we use on our motorcycles:



I also followed @F1point4 's excellent write up in post 4 of this thread to get a good basic grasp on the particulars for the FRS. Thanks for an amazing explanation!

My only deviation was the pump instead of his examples of the speed bleeders or two player mode. I suppose this could be considered career mode?


To do this with the pump, I did the following after the car was in the air:


Open the brake reservoir and take out the little plastic filter screen under the cap. Clean it, make it pretty.

Stick the suction end of the pump line in there through the little hole near the front of the reservoir so you can get the hose down into the fluid. Don't jam anything too hard, there's a float at the back to be careful of - you should be on the opposite side of the reservoir from that.

Suck out fluid from the reservoir until the fluid is about a half inch below the minimum fill line. DO NOT SUCK IT DRY, no matter how horny you may be. The idea here is that whatever fluid you remove from the reservoir before you start flushing, is fluid you don't have to suck through the brake lines, especially since the first line to flush is the longest one.

Don't empty the reservoir so much that you risk allowing an air bubble to go down the drain- life will suck for a while as you try to get that air bubble out.

Slowly top-up the reservoir with fresh fluid (so as not to mix the old and new fluid too much. Think black and tan beer). Go ahead and fill it past the fill line, keep going all the way to the top, don't be a baby, keep going... but don't spill.

Now go to the right rear wheel if you're working on a left-hand drive 86. This is the longest brake line in the car, and the first to flush. Opposite for wrong-side drive cars.

My brake vacuum pump kit has different fittings for the bleeder valves. None of them fit the tiny-ass bleeders on this car. I cut the cup off the end of one of them and jammed it in the end of the clear vacuum line. The other end fits nice and snug over the bleeder.

Attach the vacuum line to the bleeder valve.

Pump the vacuum a couple times to get a little negative pressure (no such thing, but let the physics nazis have their fun), and see it register on the dial. It should slowly drop, indicating a pretty good seal. If it drops super fast, or never builds vacuum, fiddle-fuck with the hose connections and make sure you've got the o-ring seated properly on the catch cup lid.

Grab your 10mm wrench and pump the vacuum a little to create suction at the bleeder. Loosen the bleeder with the wrench a bit and you should see fluid start to flow.

There will very likely be bubbles in the fluid visible in the clear vacuum line - this doesn't necessarily mean there is air in your car's brake line. When you crack open the bleeder, air sneaks in around the threads and gets sucked into the vacuum line through the bleeder. It is important to keep vacuum applied the entire time you have the bleeder open, just a little will do.

Close the bleeder with the wrench while you still have vacuum on the gauge to stop the flow of fluid and prevent air going back into the car's line (caliper really, whatever).

Keep suction on the vacuum until the catch cup is almost full. Mine holds 120 ml, and I usually stopped at around 100 ml for ease of handling and calculating how much I bled.

On the right rear, I pulled out about 300 ml before I realized the color difference. I'm thinking in the future, about 200 should do if I empty the reservoir more to start out with.

Speaking of that reservoir, go look and see how low it got. Fill it back up with fresh fluid. It's probably a good idea to at least look at it after each 100 ml, just to get comfortable with how much it drops each can-full.

Next do the left rear - Here I pulled about 200 before I saw the difference (all clean fluid in the reservoir now, so much less to pump out than the first line).

Fill the reservoir.

To get to the right front bleeder while the car is on stands with the wheels still on, just turn the steering wheel to right lock. Easily accessible. I pumped about 150 ml before it looked super clean. The front brake fluid was significantly more dirty than the rears, for good reason.

Fill the reservoir, but not all the way to the tippy-top this time. This time, just fill it to the full line. Otherwise you may have to suck more fluid out in order to get the level in the reservoir down to where it belongs after you bleed the last line.

Then turn the steering wheel to left lock for the front left brake. I pulled another 150 ml out of here even though I could easily see the color difference at about 100 ml. I felt like it was still cleaning out the line a bit by pulling more fluid through, and I had already cracked my second 500 ml bottle which can't be saved for later, so... smoke em if you got em - I had it, so I used it.

Make sure you put all the little bleeder caps back on at each wheel and tightened the bleeders to spec (whatever that is. my spec is hand tight without snapping valves).

Take a look at the fluid level in the reservoir - adjust as needed - you're a big kid now and know how to do it.

Gently wipe off the plastic filter with a dry paper towel, put it back in the reservoir and also wipe off the inside of the cap before putting it back on. This minimizes the amount of water re-introduced to your now clean brake fluid.

Start the car and press the brake pedal - it should be nice and firm.

Lower the car and make sure the brakes work in the driveway or somewhere in a safe way before going out on the road anywhere.


Damn, that turned out to be waaaaaay longer than I had intended. Now I feel like I should have taken some damn photos. All I really wanted to document was how much fluid I pulled out of each line so I could look back at this later for reference.

Whatever, good luck and have fun!
kavanagh is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to kavanagh For This Useful Post:
F1point4 (06-25-2014)
Old 06-26-2014, 07:32 PM   #65
kavanagh
Fat on Corn Syrup
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2014 Asphalt FRS AT (yes, auto!)
Location: Secret Volcano Base in Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 801
Thanks: 3,372
Thanked 2,748 Times in 1,094 Posts
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
mmmmmmmm, corn syrup in the tank. Good stuff, that e85.


Had some fun at the Piggly's east side meetup and let a few folks drive our car to see how the auto feels. Smiles all around and some expressions of 'wow, I really wish I would have test driven this. I would have considered it more seriously.' Everyone was astonished at how quickly it shifts and how actually fun it is in manual mode, especially those autoblip downshifts into the 5k rpm range. I love it!




We have 1500 miles on the test tune and I think we're about ready for prime time. I'll update everyone when it's available and who the vendor is when they're ready.



I finally got around to finishing up the rims. They came with chrome caps, and I just always hated them. They were the only thing I could see when I looked at the car - Asphalt body, tinted windows, black rims, GIANT CHROME CAPS!
We took the caps off for a while, but also ended up not liking that look enough either. It's good for the racecar effect, and they won't be on when we track the car, but we really want a smoother look on the daily basis. We're essentially looking for the stock-plus image - casual observers not familiar with this platform should think that maybe the car came from the factory this way...




So here's what I did:


I recommend starting with a decent beer anytime you use a razor blade







kavanagh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2014, 10:10 PM   #66
kavanagh
Fat on Corn Syrup
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2014 Asphalt FRS AT (yes, auto!)
Location: Secret Volcano Base in Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 801
Thanks: 3,372
Thanked 2,748 Times in 1,094 Posts
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
another note for myself for later

The steering rack bolts: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=122

First I need to see if I already have them or not.




And Tires to think about:

RE11/RE11A, AD08R, RS3, RE070




And have the radiator fan come on at 204* instead of 212*




and the head unit is the Pioneer AXCP-Q14U T10015
and here is the page that shows how to connect a backup camera. I don't care about a backup camera, what I want to do is display DashCommand through the radio screen while on the track so I can see whatever gauges I create on the app. So far the most important ones I use right now are oil temp, AFR, long and short fuel trims.
http://ae64.com/Rear-camera-16p-operation.htm

Last edited by kavanagh; 07-28-2014 at 05:54 PM.
kavanagh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2014, 10:58 PM   #67
kavanagh
Fat on Corn Syrup
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2014 Asphalt FRS AT (yes, auto!)
Location: Secret Volcano Base in Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 801
Thanks: 3,372
Thanked 2,748 Times in 1,094 Posts
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Did a quick tire rotation today. I am really really impressed with these Pilot Super Sports. They have about 15k miles, 4 full track days (~200 miles), plus all the sideways driving I do whenever the opportunity arises, and they are still in awesome shape. I'm guessing another 10k miles and 2 track days before they need to be replaced!

I also stopped at the Subaru dealer and picked up crash bolts to put on while I had the wheels off. The feel is much better with however much negative camber I was able to get int he front. Turn in is more immediate and the feel is more firm in the wheel (that may have been the rotation). Overall a couple bucks very well spent. Plus I ordered the longer steering rack bolts from the BRZ. We'll see how well that works when they arrive and I get time to install them.

And we have about 3500 miles on the canned tune and it is amazing. We have gotten the drivability for the auto really dialed in. Smooth shifting and comfortable driving when you're not on it, and really nice acceleration when you drop the hammer. I think it's a great balance. I actually just had map number one changed over to e85 instead of map 2, so the car defaults to it every time we start up. We're going to try to live on corn syrup 100% of the time now.
kavanagh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2014, 01:15 AM   #68
ZionsWrath
Thanks
 
ZionsWrath's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Drives: BRZ
Location: NY
Posts: 4,163
Thanks: 5,989
Thanked 3,100 Times in 1,498 Posts
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
Caliper clearance





__________________
ZionsWrath is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ZionsWrath For This Useful Post:
sklimo (07-30-2014)
Old 07-30-2014, 01:19 AM   #69
kavanagh
Fat on Corn Syrup
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2014 Asphalt FRS AT (yes, auto!)
Location: Secret Volcano Base in Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 801
Thanks: 3,372
Thanked 2,748 Times in 1,094 Posts
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
2014 Asphalt Auto FRS

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZionsWrath View Post
Caliper clearance












Awesome! I just washed ours and was looking at the space back there. Like I said, small children could live behind these rims. Which size an offset rim did you end up getting? And you got new lug nuts too right?

Edit: I'm also anxious to hear about those tires.

Sent from a secret volcano base using trained sharks
kavanagh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2014, 01:26 AM   #70
ZionsWrath
Thanks
 
ZionsWrath's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Drives: BRZ
Location: NY
Posts: 4,163
Thanks: 5,989
Thanked 3,100 Times in 1,498 Posts
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by kavanagh View Post
Awesome! I just washed ours and was looking at the space back there. Like I said, small children could live behind these rims. Which size an offset rim did you end up getting? And you got new lug nuts too right?

Edit: I'm also anxious to hear about those tires.

Sent from a secret volcano base using trained sharks
+45 since its closer to OEM

I was only going to get 35 if I needed it for clearance

And the black lugs it came with are awesome, hope they don't chip. Tire rack is awesome free mount and balance free lugs free hub rings. Much better than piecing together my last set. Also, free shipping since I pick up

I'm trying to go to track on the 13, only thing would stop me is not having brakes by then.
__________________
ZionsWrath is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Tags
2014, arizona, asphalt, auto, build

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Roast The Coast Auto Rally (June 2014) TheJavanaut Southeast 0 11-29-2013 09:16 AM
2013 Asphalt Scion FRS CQuartz FINEST - TLC Auto Detail TLC Dave Cosmetic Maintenance (Wash, Wax, Detailing, Body Repairs) 9 03-15-2013 11:53 PM
TLC Auto Detail - Asphalt Subaru BRZ w/ Opti-Guard TLC Dave Cleaning and Detailing 0 01-25-2013 09:50 AM
Auto Salon Works: Opti Coat with Mild Correction - Asphalt FR-S drew935 Cosmetic Maintenance (Wash, Wax, Detailing, Body Repairs) 4 10-01-2012 01:01 PM
Auto Salon Works: Opti Coat Asphalt FR-S drew935 Cosmetic Maintenance (Wash, Wax, Detailing, Body Repairs) 0 07-26-2012 04:59 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:41 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.