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Old 02-02-2013, 03:57 AM   #43
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@Porsche is it the AC Hydraulics DK20 jack that you have found works well. I am 15mm lowered and have TRD front lip so the reach to the font jack point is slightly further.


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Old 02-02-2013, 01:36 PM   #44
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@Porsche is it the AC Hydraulics DK20 jack that you have found works well. I am 15mm lowered and have TRD front lip so the reach to the font jack point is slightly further.
My jack is the AC Hydraulics DK13HLQ.

It is outrageously expensive, but I grew weary of cheap jacks leaking and failing at $100 a pop. This model is extra long, extra low, and lifts the car VERY high, allowing plenty of room underneath the car. It has plenty of extra reach beyond the central jacking points on my BRZ. It readily fits under my S2000 to reach the central jacking point on the front cross member.

I would expect it would fit your car, too, but I'm only guessing of course.

I believe all the components of the jack are replaceable, allowing for an indefinite service life for mere home use. I think it's made to last for decades in a commercial environment.
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:41 PM   #45
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Would jacking from the frame rails more inboard of the pinch welds be alright to do? I did this with my STI without any incidents, but who knows...
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:57 PM   #46
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Would jacking from the frame rails more inboard of the pinch welds be alright to do? I did this with my STI without any incidents, but who knows...
I vaguely recall reading on another forum that some fellow had done that on a different make of car, and that "rail" bent. Uh-oh...

As you say, "...but who knows."

What benefit would be gained by jacking at the frame rails?

My issue with jacking from the side, when one wants to put the car up on jackstands is that ... the jack's in the way! How are you supposed to put the stand right where the jack is?! My large stands have really wide bases.

Jacking the whole front end up from a central jacking point in the middle of the cross member is perfect; you just place the jackstands beneath the jacking points along the sides and lower the car neatly onto the two stands. It's simple. Repeat for the rear and with two jackings the car's up on four stands without any interference. You're also not torquing on the body; the car just pivots up on the front/rear wheels, nice and balanced. Don't forget to chock the wheels on the opposite end of the car when jacking one end.

Unfortunately, there are some cars that fail to offer secure central jacking points at one or the other end.

I've often found the whole business of how to safely and securely get the car up in the air and on stands very frustrating.

The BRZ is by far the easiest car to elevate ever. So long as one has a jack that can reach the central jack points.

Note: A reminder for the beginners: Never EVER get underneath a car supported only by a jack. ALWAYS support a car on solid, strong, and stable jackstands. Every year people crawl beneath their cars, the unthinkable happens, and someone later finds them crushed to death beneath the car. Death may come fairly quickly, but all the same it seems like a bad way to die. There will be plenty of time to be unhappy. Don't let that be you.
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:52 AM   #47
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My garage doesn't offer me the room to jack the front from the central jacking point if I'm parked with the rear end facing out the garage door. Vice versa for when the car is backed into the garage.

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Old 02-03-2013, 12:45 PM   #48
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My garage doesn't offer me the room to jack the front from the central jacking point if I'm parked with the rear end facing out the garage door. Vice versa for when the car is backed into the garage.
Could you drive in front first and put the front on ramps and then jack the back and put on jack stands?



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Old 02-03-2013, 01:40 PM   #49
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My garage doesn't offer me the room to jack the front from the central jacking point if I'm parked with the rear end facing out the garage door. Vice versa for when the car is backed into the garage.

Jack a front corner, put a jackstand in place, repeat on the other corner.

It's more effort, but unless you have room up front, you won't be able to do both corners at once.
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Old 02-03-2013, 02:08 PM   #50
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Front corner from where and put the jackstand in which place? If I jack from the frame rail, I might have enough room to put a jackstand on the pinch weld, but if I jack from the pinch weld, is there another spot to put the jackstand?

I might be over analyzing this a bit...
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Old 02-03-2013, 02:13 PM   #51
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Front corner from where and put the jackstand in which place? If I jack from the frame rail, I might have enough room to put a jackstand on the pinch weld, but if I jack from the pinch weld, is there another spot to put the jackstand?

I might be over analyzing this a bit...
There isn't enough room, and I wouldn't jack from anywhere else or you may risk bending the frame. I'm not sure if there are other jack points besides the front "bar" and the rear differential.
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Old 02-03-2013, 02:33 PM   #52
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Front corner from where and put the jackstand in which place? If I jack from the frame rail, I might have enough room to put a jackstand on the pinch weld, but if I jack from the pinch weld, is there another spot to put the jackstand?

I might be over analyzing this a bit...
Get a hockey puck type attachment on your jackstand and jack and jack from a solid piece of the frame. The pinch welds are really the best place to do it, but you could always use a solid part of the frame in a pinch (pun not intended). If you have enough clearance, and you're familiar with the suspension, you could even jack from a fixed part of the suspension. Again, not sure if you have room for that though, especially given how low our cars are to begin with.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:49 AM   #53
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4. Next, locate the factory jacking points on the pinch welds located on both sides of the car. These are the places where you would use to jack up the car if you were using the OEM scissor jack supplied with the car. They are identifiable by having small notches taken out of the metal on the pinch weld on either side of the jacking point. The front point is located on the pinch weld just after the front wheel, and the rear point is located just before the rear wheel on the pinch weld. Grab your four jackstands and place one next to each of these points.
if i use the OEM scissor jack that came with the car, where would i put the jack stands? I mean the OEM scissor jack would be placed at the pinch weld to jack up the car, but that'll take the place for the jack stand. Please help thanks!
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:29 AM   #54
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if i use the OEM scissor jack that came with the car, where would i put the jack stands? I mean the OEM scissor jack would be placed at the pinch weld to jack up the car, but that'll take the place for the jack stand. Please help thanks!
The oem scissor jack isn't generally meant for use in car maintenance. It really is there to (in a pinch) let you change a flat tire. The biggest drawback being that it uses the oem jack point, is harder to use, and can only lift one corner of your car at a time. Whereas a hydraulic jack can lift one axle (front or back) at once. I have this $99 jack from Costco and its been great for 10 years. My only complaint is that it can be tricky to lower. Mine sometimes is either fully closed or fully open which sometimes has the car being lowered rather faster than I would like.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20534
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:49 AM   #55
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Here's something to read and think about.
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2008/08...nd-the-abysmal

In general, I think the adage that "if your income or life depends on it, don't buy harbor freight" couldn't be more true. Safety items like jack stands is one place where I will happily pay for quality.
Just checked that article out, it's a bit conflicting since it lists the HF Racing Jack as a "do buy" item, but then further down it lists it as a "stay away" item since some have reported leaks. The HF jackstands are on the "do buy" list.
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:23 AM   #56
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Yeah I saw that. I think bottom line is you gotta decide what's priority and where to cut corners. Me, I'm happy to buy hand tools and stuff with few/no moving parts from HF. Complex mechanical stuff? Safety items? I'd sorta rather stay with a "know quantity".
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