12-15-2021, 09:44 PM | #631 | |
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It is still odd to me that the system seems to be accurate until 1/4 tank and then it jumps down to empty. Does the hybrid system take over after the tank reaches a certain level because, as you say, the level can be affected by external forces in ways that matter much more? Does it operate purely analog and then switches to a hybrid system where it uses the analog data and then calculates the output, or is it always hybrid?
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12-15-2021, 09:48 PM | #632 |
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Sorry if that was confusing. I meant it is from the Kpower installation writeup that gets bypassed. Because they messed with it, I had thought maybe there was a feedback system in some way to the main ECU for some type of signal, whether used computationally or something that effected the fuel gauge, but I see now from the wiring diagram that it isn't really an issue.
And yes, it is labeled the Fuel Pump Control ECU from the wiring diagram. I omitted Control because I thought it was superfluous.
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12-15-2021, 09:50 PM | #633 |
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Irace is just repeating what Kpower calls the fuel pump controller since they call it a fuel pump ecu.
I was lost, but I guess Kpower was the one lost. I guess I am still lost. lol Weird they call it an ecu. Electronic control unit? |
12-15-2021, 09:57 PM | #634 | |
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So no. When you initially fill up the cluster will set that as the new max point and then decreases from there. the hybrid system is always there... it only resets with a power disconnect or a fillup event. Think of it as a compound problem. initial value is exact for the tank. but as your driving, you get better accuracy knowing how much fuel your actually burning. When looking at the code, you would notice that the when doing a full fillup doing some math.. the... "average number - total number (full fillup) = 75% " so it leaves 25% to be calculated via ECU usage. Its a complicated system but its necessary as the real world can make the sensors fluctuate like crazy haha.
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12-15-2021, 09:59 PM | #635 | |
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ECU is much more broadly used, if that is the confusing part too. Many controllers or modules are called ECUs. More ECUs and a ECM... By convention, ECU is electrical instead of engine because there are so many difference units controlling everything in the powertrain from the transmission to ABS to steering to batteries and motors in hybrids and EVs.
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12-15-2021, 10:04 PM | #636 |
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Neat, I have dual fuel pump ecu s
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12-15-2021, 10:25 PM | #637 | |
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I'm still confused. If the gauge is entirely analog without CANBUS input, as we have it now, right, then it would just be working from full to empty, but it would be twitchy or variable as the car pitched and accelerated like you mentioned. I don't know if that is what these guys are experiencing, a twitchy fuel gauge. I feel like I have seen this in classic cars before. It seems like they would have mentioned this if it was happening. If it is not happening then what is smoothing out the signal if it is not calculated? I don't know if the car isn't progressing past 1/4 tank only when the car is running, but if they turned it off and back on then it would show 1/8 tank or some true value before maybe failing to progress. I'm a little confused why 25% is left to be calculated. Is the accuracy of the sensor bad past 1/4 tank or what? Once the sensor reads zero, is the reason why the gauge suddenly drops to zero because any calculation multiplied by zero is zero, and maybe the fail safe up until then is to output 1/4 tank. Trying to wrap my head around it.
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12-15-2021, 11:36 PM | #638 | |
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12-15-2021, 11:36 PM | #639 | |
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well 25% is just the number if you assume the "rough" variable (analog) analog value is X ... and the "fine tuning " (digital) variable is 0%. then added together it would be 75%.. Its just code basically that helps these things be like that. is complicated to explain ahha. But the symptom is basically running out of fuel at 1/4 tank (displayed). or the gauge going from 1/4th to 0/4 after you turn it off and back on. Its all due to the same reason. Older cars that were lets say.. 90s used to have a needle that has a very viscous lubricant that would slow down the movement of the needle. Thus very slow to react to stuff. Then early 00s cars would be analog to digital.. but they did not need to be so precise. just enough for visual reference. But as part of emission system got complex and more exact. the need to have a extremely precise amount of fuel is what is needed to comply with modern standards. you could always hookup the analog sensor to the haltech. But then you use the oem display :/
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12-16-2021, 12:56 AM | #640 | |
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Seems odd that 1/4 would lead to such a change. Weird. Im any way, hopefully they get it figured out.
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12-16-2021, 04:14 PM | #641 |
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What is this for?
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12-16-2021, 04:15 PM | #642 |
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I have no clue either. I have been meaning to ask but figure the car hasn't exploded yet so can't be too important.
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12-16-2021, 04:58 PM | #643 |
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If I remember correctly it was in the wiring box right? Maybe a new ECU mount? I have no clue. I forgot all about it and I’m now at just over 500 miles with the swap. For the most part I’ve forgotten I even swapped the car. It starts up like stock and drives like a stock car. But that’s exactly what I wanted. It does feel faster in the corners, but in a straight line it’s still slow. I imagine swapping an LS into the car makes it feel like a totally different car (I’ve had an ls swapped s2000, s14, and a few rx7’s and they kinda lost their original feeling). So I’m very happy that the 86 maintained it’s character.
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12-16-2021, 05:01 PM | #644 | |
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The edges are sharp, and the wiring harness was easily zip tied at that spot, so I think I’m good without it. It would be too much work to try to install it at this point.
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