usb/3.5 jack relocate + usb charger

[BRZranger]

Originally Posted by jjkerr626

Hello all, up here in Canada what they do is they put the USB port and 3.5mm plug inside the glove box. This is stupid because than you can't close the glovebox lid. However I would like to try and purchase the US version of this part which is shown in brzrangers first photo.

Does anyone know the part number or have one for sale? Thank you.

You can probably remove the USB port from the glovebox and use a USB extension cord to route to the new location.

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by jjkerr626

...Does anyone know the part number or have one for sale? Thank you.

I don't know if its the same cable used in the 86, but when I was doing some searching in the past I found the tC version of the cable is PT546-00120-US. If you just want to relocate it though, the existing cable is most likely long enough.

A dealer should be able to get you the part using the radio part number PT546-00120

[phillies5582]

if your phone isn't charging, its the device, not the port. All USB's are 5 volts. So its not "voltage"; there is a current specification to USB ports, this is standard for all USB ports. So, assuming the USB port in the vehicle is held to spec (99.9% are), the port itself isn't the problem.

Otherwise, it depends if the device you have needs to "talk" to something to allow it to charge. Often with iPods/iPhones, these are directly supported by radio/head unit manufactures (due to their large % of the smartphone / mp3 player market). Other brands may not be supported. Depending if those other brands require some sort of communication with the host devices would determine if it charges or not. Tho, keep in mind that when you plug your device via USB into a wall outlet charger, there is no "communication", so likely if your device isn't charging in the vehicle, the device may need to see either (1) its propriety USB communication (say to a supported host or to your computer running the device's program) or (2) no communication at all (wall outlet charger). So if there is some unrecognized communication going on, it likely doesn't allow charging under this condition.

Also, regarding running USB extension cables (to the trunk), per the USB standard, the maximum cable length is specified at 2-5 meters. The radio to trunk distance is easily +2 meters, so I would consider getting a USB repeater cable, rather than just a long USB cable. This has an extra module on the end that amplifies the USB signal so it can travel the longer distance. I would recommend this, because if your like me and appreciate quality music, you don't want to just chain a few USB cables together to reach to the device in the trunk and compromise the connection quality of the music.

Source: I'm an electrical engineer. If there's any electrical related questions please feel free to ask me.

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by phillies5582

. Tho, keep in mind that when you plug your device via USB into a wall outlet charger, there is no "communication", so likely if your device isn't charging in the vehicle, the device may need to see either (1) its propriety USB communication (say to a supported host or to your computer running the device's program) or (2) no communication at all (wall outlet charger). So if there is some unrecognized communication going on, it likely doesn't allow charging under this condition. /

I have to question this, because I've seen it both ways. I have USB devices that will not charge with specific USB "dumb" wall outlet chargers, but work fine with other dumb devices or car chargers. I suppose it could be the chargers that are at fault, although in each case a different device will charge fine. In the end, its way more complicated than it needs to be, for sure.

There are also some devices that require specific chargers or won't charge at all. For example, I have a Magellan GPS that has a USB connector but will only charge with it's specific charger. Obviousy this intentional on the part of the manufacturer, but I had to really dig through the manual to discover that tidbit. It was not stated anywhere on the published specs, where it stated only listed the charge port as a "USB Connector".

[zenoran]

Originally Posted by Dadhawk

I tried a hub but the headunit doesn't support one unfortunately. Haven't done any research to see if just splitting it would let one or the other work.

Just ran into this thread and found it interesting. I just got my FR-S yesterday and my #1 complaint is the ipod connection and dangling wires buggering up the interior. I am going to probably pull out the HU and route the hookup from the back and try to get the ipod cable into the glove box at a minimum. I would like to additionally keep the front connection enabled if possible but then it jumps into splitting the USB and if it would work. The audio jack can be split without a problem but I'm not sure about the USB.

From reading other posts it sounds like a whole lot of power isn't going to the USB to begin with so if splitting were to be done it would need to be done with a USB hub and ideally would need to be a powered one. I'm going to be searching around to see if I can find a DC-powered hub to patch into the electrical system. That would ideally work better for not only splitting it but pushing more power to the devices to charge them... whether or not the HU will recognize it is another story though...

this: http://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetai...FdKd4AodC3AAkw

pricey though

[jemartti]

Originally Posted by phillies5582

if your phone isn't charging, its the device, not the port. All USB's are 5 volts. So its not "voltage"; there is a current specification to USB ports, this is standard for all USB ports. So, assuming the USB port in the vehicle is held to spec (99.9% are), the port itself isn't the problem.

The problem here is neither the phone nor the device. Yes, the USB specifications require 5V±5%, but the current specification can vary between ports. The USB port in the 86 twins is a standard USB port, providing up to 0.5A of current. However, many modern devices require 1A (or more) of current to charge at anything more than a trickle charge. For example, picture the iPad: its battery can hold 6.61A (24.8w at 3.75v). Charging this from flat at the max 0.5A supplied by a standard USB port would take around twelve hours! Hardly a reasonable option for today's demanding customers.

Originally Posted by phillies5582

Also, regarding running USB extension cables (to the trunk), per the USB standard, the maximum cable length is specified at 2-5 meters. The radio to trunk distance is easily +2 meters, so I would consider getting a USB repeater cable, rather than just a long USB cable. This has an extra module on the end that amplifies the USB signal so it can travel the longer distance. I would recommend this, because if your like me and appreciate quality music, you don't want to just chain a few USB cables together to reach to the device in the trunk and compromise the connection quality of the music.

Just to clarify for others: USB cables carry a digital signal, and as such, the quality of the data (music) being transmitted isn't going to decline as the cable length increases (as is the case with analog transmissions). The signal will start to degrade as the length of the cables increases (eventually leading to malformed data and data loss), but USB includes a CRC check to ensure data integrity and will refuse a connection if the CRC check indicates that the signal has degraded past a certain point. While CRC is very good at catching the sort of random errors common in data transmission, it is still a statistical mechanism and as such doesn't guarantee data integrity. The result of this data loss won't result in decline in the quality of the music per se, but will instead manifest itself as an occasional noticeable click or pop.

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by zenoran

...

From reading other posts it sounds like a whole lot of power isn't going to the USB to begin with so if splitting were to be done it would need to be done with a USB hub and ideally would need to be a powered one. I'm going to be searching around to see if I can find a DC-powered hub to patch into the electrical system. That would ideally work better for not only splitting it but pushing more power to the devices to charge them... whether or not the HU will recognize it is another story though...

Assuming we are talking about the Pioneer headunit, it doesn't support a hub, so it won't work. I found a reference to that when I was considering it. Check page 57 of the manual for the radio:

"You cannot connect a USB
portable audio player/USB
memory to this unit via a
USB hub."

[zenoran]

Originally Posted by Dadhawk

Assuming we are talking about the Pioneer headunit, it doesn't support a hub, so it won't work. I found a reference to that when I was considering it. Check page 57 of the manual for the radio:

"You cannot connect a USB
portable audio player/USB
memory to this unit via a
USB hub."

Ya I just moved it to the glove box and forget about with iPod classic attached.

Still need a good way to charge phone though. Thinking a power inverter in the glove box too

[phillies5582]

Originally Posted by jemartti

The problem here is neither the phone nor the device. Yes, the USB specifications require 5V±5%, but the current specification can vary between ports. The USB port in the 86 twins is a standard USB port, providing up to 0.5A of current. However, many modern devices require 1A (or more) of current to charge at anything more than a trickle charge. For example, picture the iPad: its battery can hold 6.61A (24.8w at 3.75v). Charging this from flat at the max 0.5A supplied by a standard USB port would take around twelve hours! Hardly a reasonable option for today's demanding customers.

Just to clarify for others: USB cables carry a digital signal, and as such, the quality of the data (music) being transmitted isn't going to decline as the cable length increases (as is the case with analog transmissions). The signal will start to degrade as the length of the cables increases (eventually leading to malformed data and data loss), but USB includes a CRC check to ensure data integrity and will refuse a connection if the CRC check indicates that the signal has degraded past a certain point. While CRC is very good at catching the sort of random errors common in data transmission, it is still a statistical mechanism and as such doesn't guarantee data integrity. The result of this data loss won't result in decline in the quality of the music per se, but will instead manifest itself as an occasional noticeable click or pop.

Yes, exactly...USB spec is 500-900mA, but 5A for charging devices, like you ipod wall charger...this is the major difference.

And about USB cable length, you are exactly correct (and taking it another level )