SCCA Solo D Street discussion

[steverife]

The 615's are incredibly durable.

They are an older 200TW, so they are significantly off the pace of some of the newer tires. They don't power down very well, they don't respond to blended inputs very well, and many think they don't handle heat well. Overall, they aren't a very forgiving tire and I'm not sure that they skillset that you develop for those tires translates very well to other new 200TW's.

With that said, if you don't have experience with better tires, you likely won't recognize any of this and will think they are great.

[kraftyone]

Originally Posted by steverife

With that said, if you don't have experience with better tires, you likely won't recognize any of this and will think they are great.

So my hope is to get about 5 or 6 events in this year and evaluate where I am as a driver. My guess is between driving to and from events plus the events this set of tires will be done. I was considering going with the RT660 but didnt. Maybe next years season.

[steverife]

Originally Posted by kraftyone

So my hope is to get about 5 or 6 events in this year and evaluate where I am as a driver. My guess is between driving to and from events plus the events this set of tires will be done. I was considering going with the RT660 but didnt. Maybe next years season.

You don't wear out Falken RT615k's, Falken RT615k's wear out you.

So I bought a set to take to solo nats in 2019, when we had to run them in SSC. Drove out and back 2k miles, took maybe 4 autocross runs on them to scrub them. And they've been my street/storage tires since. That's 2 more trips to Lincoln at 2k miles apiece, a trip to Toledo at about 1k miles, at least a dozen tail of the dragon trips, and a few thousand random street miles. And I think they are probably good for another year or 2 of this.

[mr.whiskers]

Sorry for a stupid question.

I am looking to get some camber on my completely stock '22 BRZ sometime mid summer (I wanna try first couple events totally stock see if I notice a difference).

How many camber bolts should I order from the dealer? I got the part number from a nice gentleman in the BRZ forum section. And from looking at pictures it seems like I would need 2 per wheel? Is it recommended to do it on all 4 wheels or just front wheels is enough?
I daily drive this car and also plan taking it autocrossing this summer.

[otter]

Originally Posted by mr.whiskers

Sorry for a stupid question.

I am looking to get some camber on my completely stock '22 BRZ sometime mid summer (I wanna try first couple events totally stock see if I notice a difference).

How many camber bolts should I order from the dealer? I got the part number from a nice gentleman in the BRZ forum section. And from looking at pictures it seems like I would need 2 per wheel? Is it recommended to do it on all 4 wheels or just front wheels is enough?
I daily drive this car and also plan taking it autocrossing this summer.

2 total. The DS-legal bolt is already installed in the lower strut hole on both sides so you're only replacing the upper bolt. Only works on the front wheels, you can't do anything about rear camber.

[Autoxer62]

Originally Posted by Desertnate

In what way?

When I slap the all seasons on the OEM wheels this winter, I was planning on getting a set of the 615's on a set of wheels for autocross and occasional fun backroad drives.

Autocross events from me are about an hour away. Any serious backroad adventures or even a one-off HPDE would be 2~4+ hours away. I didn't think trying to put that type of mileage on a set of something softer like RT660's was a good idea and the RT615's might be a better "teaching tire" before going with something more sticky. Not a good plan?

FWIW I bought 660's last year and have mostly been driving to/from events on them. They're still well above the wear bars with a dozen events worth of runs with me and a co-driver (so 24 events total) and driving 75 to 100 miles each way. As it stands right now, I'll be able to sell them when they get replaced in the next month or so. Were I only doing locals I'd probably keep them through the end of the year and they'd probably still have some tread left.

Generally I've found street miles just don't wear autocross tires the way autocross runs do. The only issue I can see is you might be adding some heat cycles, and even that's iffy.

From a driving perspective I really like the 660's, the only reason I'm going to Yokos is they come up to temp quicker and it's easier to remove heat than add it. I have an STX car with enough camber too, for a Street class car with limited camber the 660's are almost certainly a better choice.

[kraftyone]

Originally Posted by Autoxer62

FWIW I bought 660's last year and have mostly been driving to/from events on them. They're still well above the wear bars with a dozen events worth of runs with me and a co-driver (so 24 events total) and driving 75 to 100 miles each way. As it stands right now, I'll be able to sell them when they get replaced in the next month or so. Were I only doing locals I'd probably keep them through the end of the year and they'd probably still have some tread left.

Generally I've found street miles just don't wear autocross tires the way autocross runs do. The only issue I can see is you might be adding some heat cycles, and even that's iffy.

From a driving perspective I really like the 660's, the only reason I'm going to Yokos is they come up to temp quicker and it's easier to remove heat than add it. I have an STX car with enough camber too, for a Street class car with limited camber the 660's are almost certainly a better choice.

awesome to know.

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[foshjowler]

Originally Posted by Autoxer62

FWIW I bought 660's last year and have mostly been driving to/from events on them. They're still well above the wear bars with a dozen events worth of runs with me and a co-driver (so 24 events total) and driving 75 to 100 miles each way. As it stands right now, I'll be able to sell them when they get replaced in the next month or so. Were I only doing locals I'd probably keep them through the end of the year and they'd probably still have some tread left.

Generally I've found street miles just don't wear autocross tires the way autocross runs do. The only issue I can see is you might be adding some heat cycles, and even that's iffy.

From a driving perspective I really like the 660's, the only reason I'm going to Yokos is they come up to temp quicker and it's easier to remove heat than add it. I have an STX car with enough camber too, for a Street class car with limited camber the 660's are almost certainly a better choice.

I would generally agree with this. A season of autox and daily driving shouldn't be a problem for the 660s. You'll want a set of tires for winter, but otherwise should be fine. I more or less leave mine on between events since I typically do 2-3 events a month from March - October.

There are a few people who run the 660s on the front and Yoks on the rear since the 660s have good feel, and the yoks have great straight line grip.

[Desertnate]

Originally Posted by Autoxer62

FWIW I bought 660's last year and have mostly been driving to/from events on them. They're still well above the wear bars with a dozen events worth of runs with me and a co-driver (so 24 events total) and driving 75 to 100 miles each way. As it stands right now, I'll be able to sell them when they get replaced in the next month or so. Were I only doing locals I'd probably keep them through the end of the year and they'd probably still have some tread left.

Generally I've found street miles just don't wear autocross tires the way autocross runs do. The only issue I can see is you might be adding some heat cycles, and even that's iffy.

From a driving perspective I really like the 660's, the only reason I'm going to Yokos is they come up to temp quicker and it's easier to remove heat than add it. I have an STX car with enough camber too, for a Street class car with limited camber the 660's are almost certainly a better choice.

This is really helpful. Thanks!

What type of pavement/conditions do you see at your autocross venue? The asphalt at our two venues is rather rough, though one is rumored to be resurfaced mid-summer.

[cmiovino]

This weekend's event. I was 0.7 behind my go-driver. When looking back at the video, I'd say my line was good. I was perhaps a bit off the cones and added some distance in the second part of the oval loop.

My main issue is just not holding enough speed through elements. You can really see this in the sweeper before the slalom and even in the slalom and finish vs my co-driver. Many SSC cars were all going 3rd in the first straight away, short shifting. We tried it and we both lost time, so rev limiter it was.

I added a 19mm Perrin front bar and endlinks this year and can't say I totally love it yet. I kinda feel like the stock bar allowed some roll, which allowed the tires to set and then boom, you were hooked and good to go. Also changed from the Yoks to 600's this year too, so that might have something to do with it.

Any other feedback? I was actually 58th out of about 103 in PAX with this run and typically I'm in the upper 1/4. Can't figure it out this season

Just me:

Co-Driver Split Screen:

[Autoxer62]

Originally Posted by Desertnate

This is really helpful. Thanks!

What type of pavement/conditions do you see at your autocross venue? The asphalt at our two venues is rather rough, though one is rumored to be resurfaced mid-summer.

I've run at four different local sites in the DC area (VMP, Richmond Raceway, SP Washington, FedEx), they're all varying degrees of worn asphalt. I wouldn't call any of them especially abrasive or rough tho FedEx is breaking up in some sections, but they certainly aren't concrete in terms of wear. Unfortunately I can't directly compare them to other places, but I also can't recall anyone saying they are really very good or bad from that point of view.

[steverife]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

This weekend's event. I was 0.7 behind my go-driver. When looking back at the video, I'd say my line was good. I was perhaps a bit off the cones and added some distance in the second part of the oval loop.

My main issue is just not holding enough speed through elements. You can really see this in the sweeper before the slalom and even in the slalom and finish vs my co-driver. Many SSC cars were all going 3rd in the first straight away, short shifting. We tried it and we both lost time, so rev limiter it was.

I added a 19mm Perrin front bar and endlinks this year and can't say I totally love it yet. I kinda feel like the stock bar allowed some roll, which allowed the tires to set and then boom, you were hooked and good to go. Also changed from the Yoks to 600's this year too, so that might have something to do with it.

Any other feedback? I was actually 58th out of about 103 in PAX with this run and typically I'm in the upper 1/4. Can't figure it out this season

You cooked that sweeper pretty bad. That's a big chunk of time. I also think you could have been way more aggressive in the slalom.

As a theme, I think you brake too late and too hard and it upsets the front of the car. Brake earlier and brake less. If you need to coast a bit, that's okay as long as you use that as an opportunity to position the car to get back on the throttle ASAP.

[kraftyone]

I asked this question in another thread a couple days ago and no one has answered so I will ask it here. Can anyone recommend a good go pro mount? Preferably suction cup.

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[justinco]

Originally Posted by kraftyone

I asked this question in another thread a couple days ago and no one has answered so I will ask it here. Can anyone recommend a good go pro mount? Preferably suction cup.

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These things are awesome and I use them for my cameras

Fat gecko mount