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Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires.


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Old 03-31-2016, 03:03 PM   #1737
b rawr z
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I can't do all the work for you. Turn to page one and give this thread a few minutes. I have read the whole thing. Everything is explained in detail. Many questions asked, just like yours, with answers. Also, I already told you it will fit with coilovers.
I didnt ask you to do all the work. Lol. Maybe you should read what my first post stated.

"hey guys. i SEARCHED in the forum if 255/35/18 on 18x9.5 +38 lowered on coilovers will fit. IVE ONLY SEEN CONFIRMATION THAT IT FITS ON EIBACH SPRINGS. currently lower than 1.5. any idea? i know 245/35/18 will clear. just mainly concerned up front."
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Old 03-31-2016, 03:17 PM   #1738
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I didnt ask you to do all the work. Lol. Maybe you should read what my first post stated.

"hey guys. i SEARCHED in the forum if 255/35/18 on 18x9.5 +38 lowered on coilovers will fit. IVE ONLY SEEN CONFIRMATION THAT IT FITS ON EIBACH SPRINGS. currently lower than 1.5. any idea? i know 245/35/18 will clear. just mainly concerned up front."
I read what you wrote. It is not correct. They will not fit with springs.

For what you are doing, you need coilovers. Springs are larger diameter than coilovers. The smaller diameter adds clearance, which allows more negative camber. Also, the OP is very knowledgeable, if you read his posts, you will understand what you need. No where does he say 9.5 will fit with springs.
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Old 03-31-2016, 03:18 PM   #1739
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hey guys. i searched in the forum if 255/35/18 on 18x9.5 +38 lowered on coilovers will fit. ive only seen confirmation that it fits on eibach springs. currently lower than 1.5. any idea? i know 245/35/18 will clear. just mainly concerned up front.

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I am running those specs car is pretty low. we are friends on facebook. you can see pics.
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Old 03-31-2016, 03:27 PM   #1740
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I am running those specs car is pretty low. we are friends on facebook. you can see pics.
Ill check em out. Thanks
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Old 03-31-2016, 03:54 PM   #1741
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I love my 275s but will definitely go wider in the rear soon!

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Why so wide? No traction?
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Old 04-01-2016, 11:33 AM   #1742
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running a 9.5 in the front with a meaty tire on stock struts is just more hassle than its worth and as you saw from king tuts post on the first page, the clearance is incredibly tight and to make it work you really gotta pull that strut in and have a really low yet stiff spring. This is why those going to springs should really stick with the 17x9 +35-ish formula with a 245 tires. That is a spot on fit for htese cars and is more than plenty of tire for the car given you run something decent and not nakangs or other garbage.

if you're asking about 2mm difference, you've got some reading to do man. read and comprehend what people are telling you and what others wrote in here. if you're already on coilovers you will be fine. you may rub on hard dips and like i said in my first post YOU WILL RUB ON THE REAR BUMPER COVER TABS so dremel that shit off or let the tire do it for you.

what kind of 255 tire are you going to run? not all tires are created equal.

if you don't want to roll rear to run minimal camber go to -2.2 front and -2 rear if you can even adjust the rear. make sure who ever does the alignment toes in the rear. Total toe in .18 roughly. Keep in mind that your rear is not adjustable camber factory so you will need an LCA if you want to fix that because as you lower the rear it will camber in-i highly suggest SPC, but if you want to spend money then go SPL. Those are my only two recommendations just because i've seen so many and know how pain in the fucking ass it is to adjust arms like the cusco for example.

i dont think alignment stuff was posted in detail in this thread before so here is a quick explanation of how things basically work on this car and generally on all cars in terms of geometry. Keep in mind we have McPherson strut front and double wishbones rear. i'll explain why i talk about more camber up front, less camber in rear and toe in rear, toe out front. i should probably copy this into the OP.

so camber...basically in order to maximize cornering force from your tires, the tire must be square on the road during a corner to achieve max grip. If your car had zero camber (all tires square to the road when driving straight), as soon as you turn, the body will roll to the outside, and the outer tires will roll only on the outsides of the tires. Thats why if you ever drove a car with stock alignment hard in turns, you'll see the outsides of the tires worn.

Because of the twin's suspension geometry. Simply put, as the car rolls in a turn, the outside wheels' suspension compresses (makes sense right?). The rear suspension was designed to gain negative camber as it compresses. So as the body rolls, the tire does not roll over as much as the car's body roll, maximizing the tire's contact patch. The front suspension is different, it does not gain significant negative camber as it compresses (during body roll in a corner), and therefore allows the tire to roll over to the outside edge, minimizing traction. This is why you must give the front end more negative camber to begin with. (Another very popular BRZ trick is to run a stiff front sway bar, to limit the front body roll and maximize tire contact).

now toe..Toe-in will stabilize the car, making it track straight and not want to change direction. Toe out does the opposite, makes it twitchy, and want to change direction quickly. A car is more responsive with toe out, but significantly less stable. Just a basic definition.

FRONT Of CAR - Toe-out in the front lets the car turn in nicely, but may "tramline" down the road (finding grooves and irregularities and following them). Toe-in front makes the car hard to turn and want to "push" or understeer. I suggest going with total toe out front of -0.1 (so about -.05 per side)

REAR OF CAR - Toe-out in the rear is pretty dangerous for RWD cars, makes the car want to spin, especially under hard braking. Toe-in rear will keep the rear stable, and (here is the key) allow for you to put power down as early and as hard as possible without wheel spin. More is not always better, racers will always adjust these settings till they get it just right. For the street, the suggested settings will let you set-it-and-forget-it. Negative camber does not kill tires. Negative camber plus excessive toe (in or out) causes inner tire wear. Toe (in or out) in effect forces the car to "drag" the tire down the road, where 0 toe lets the tire roll down the road. Make sense? Negative camber will cause the tire to roll on the inside of the tire, but negative camber plus excessive toe will drag the inside of the tire down the road causing bad inner tire wear.


TLDR: yes 255/35/18 on 18x9.5 +38 will fit just fine with coilovers. i now have no wheel gap all around and i'm perfectly fine. no rub no drama. But i'm rolled in rear and did alot of triming to rear bumper. If anyone is in NJ drop by @AZP Installs and i'd be happy to show you around the car.

-Ivan
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Old 04-11-2016, 11:39 AM   #1743
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Can I play with 255's?
I have never complained of FRS power level but now it does feel slow



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Old 04-11-2016, 01:06 PM   #1744
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It looks like you went from the stock size tire to a 255/40/17 Bridgestone Potenza (RE760?), is that right?

If so, you easily added 6lbs per tire. You are going to feel that. I know your wheels are light weight, but the fat kid on the out side of the merry-go-round will effect it more than if he sits in the middle.
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Old 04-11-2016, 02:47 PM   #1745
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It looks like you went from the stock size tire to a 255/40/17 Bridgestone Potenza (RE760?), is that right?

If so, you easily added 6lbs per tire. You are going to feel that. I know your wheels are light weight, but the fat kid on the out side of the merry-go-round will effect it more than if he sits in the middle.
Geez you hit the nail on the head!
Yup, the comparison pic is of my winter (stock size) and to the tires you mentioned.
Before my summers were the stock tires from factory..
Although the added feeling of slightly heavier steering is pleasant,
The fat one adding to the rotating mass isn't.
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Old 04-11-2016, 03:06 PM   #1746
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Geez you hit the nail on the head!
Yup, the comparison pic is of my winter (stock size) and to the tires you mentioned.
Before my summers were the stock tires from factory..
Although the added feeling of slightly heavier steering is pleasant,
The fat one adding to the rotating mass isn't.
Yeah, I had some RE760 in the past. They felt heavy to me.

The sidewall bulges slightly in the photo. Are your wheels 17x8 or 17x8.5?
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:12 PM   #1747
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Yeah, I had some RE760 in the past. They felt heavy to me.

The sidewall bulges slightly in the photo. Are your wheels 17x8 or 17x8.5?
you have a keen eye sir
they are indeed 17x8.. I hope i won't get flamed for throwing on such wide tire on narrow wheels..
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:56 PM   #1748
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Not great for handling.

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you have a keen eye sir
they are indeed 17x8.. I hope i won't get flamed for throwing on such wide tire on narrow wheels..
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Old 04-13-2016, 01:09 AM   #1749
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255/40/17 Maxxis VR-1 on 17x9 +42 Mach V Awesome's







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Old 04-15-2016, 11:27 PM   #1750
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New summers. Yokohama S Drives 225/45r17 on Motegi MR125 17x7.5 +42





Love the tires so far!
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