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01-23-2014, 01:09 PM | #29 |
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Well said.
More power would def be nice. I guess in the end, it's really just a tradeoff of what people are willing to settle/work/be content with: More power, but with more headache/maintenance/tuning vs. Stock'ish/Less power, but with less headache/maintenance/tuning. Keep it up and look forward to your future vids |
The Following User Says Thank You to fooddude For This Useful Post: | Dezoris (01-24-2014) |
01-24-2014, 01:57 AM | #30 |
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Thank you so much for that interview video! That basically made one of my dreams come true! I wanted to visit that Ohlins shop myself one day and see those sorts of things and ask those sorts of questions! Thank you, thank you!
Ohlins is simply one of those superior types of products that has incredible prestige and an extremely successful racing history. They've won on nearly every form of top level motorsport in the world. They even have mountain bike shocks! So they may be more expensive than any other but they are still in a do-able price range for mere mortals so if you're thinking of upgrading, Ohlins is the only choice worthwhile in my opinion.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bristecom For This Useful Post: | Dezoris (01-24-2014) |
03-27-2014, 10:09 AM | #31 |
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camber
great post! very informative!
quick question - what camber setting would the ohlins plate allow? thanks |
04-25-2014, 01:43 PM | #32 | |
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Quote:
With a 10mm drop we maxed out at -3.0 at the front. This will vary slightly depending on the car. If you drop the prescribed 20-25mm you'd probably see closer to -3.5
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Last edited by Dezoris; 06-04-2014 at 08:17 AM. |
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05-29-2014, 08:32 PM | #33 |
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Finally watched the video. Good work.
It was really good to hear about 1way vs 2way, external res. etc. I'm looking in this price point and I have noticed these option differences. However I certainly fall into the 90% bracket of people that aren't at an 'engineer level' of suspension theory/knowledge. I'm more of a try this setting, see if its better or worse, then try another. 2 ways, I've heard some horror stories of trying to get them right. Regarding making the system more track orientated.. It was touched on a little, but not in any real detail. Changing spring rates sounded like the suggestion. Is it as simple as just ordering them with 10k or 12k springs, and the shock can work with that spring rate? I'm on rsr coils with 7kg springs, and while a great dual purpose system, its gotten to the point now where they're not as track orientated as I would like. And I have found the 7kg spring rate too soft on budget semi slicks (achilles 123) so have not even bothered using a nt01/r888 yet. |
05-30-2014, 12:12 AM | #34 | |
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Quote:
I think what you will find is for almost all of your track driving the stock rates are good. Its just if you want to get into a competitive mode like serious time trials you will likely have to go with higher spring rates. There are a handful of us on here who have no issues with the car on track, street and autox so far, I feel the car is massively competitive and balanced. But I am also very very careful, I want a street car that can be good on the track. Not a hardened track car that feels like crap on street. That is hard to do, and thats where these dampers excel. Thats where Jeff said if you need more hardened performance at the track you may need a spring swap since the dampers accept 2.5ID springs you have choices. These are not some half ass dampers, if you need help with changing rates they have engineering you can talk to and a real network of rebuilders etc.
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06-04-2014, 08:12 AM | #35 | |
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Quote:
Just out of curiosity, can these be adjusted without any drop at all or even put the car a bit higher up? I like the idea of a higher spring rate and more suspension travel... Won't do anything like that any time soon though. The light 16" wheels with balloon tires (-13lbs/corner) I have now gel very well with the stock suspension, improving ride yet giving more planted reactions at the same, which makes progress on twisty, bumpy roads very fluid... |
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06-04-2014, 08:17 AM | #36 | |
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Quote:
Thanks and yes you can go stock ride height no issue. And as an update was able to get -3 out of the front plates at -10mm.
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11-10-2014, 01:11 PM | #37 |
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after watching this video, I don't think Id be able to install coilovers on my own lol. I think Id be better off taking it to a shop.
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11-12-2014, 01:19 AM | #38 |
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Those will be my coilovers of choice! Thanks for a great video!
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04-07-2015, 01:41 PM | #39 |
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Hi OP,
I have a strange question... recently purchased the Ohlins, and along with the instruction manual, they recommend fitting a spacer onto the front endlinks that is attached to the coilovers. Did as told, but then i realised that with the T10 spacer on, the amount of available thread seems dramatically reduced to the point where the thread does not fully wind into the endlink nut. Did you do the same and is this going to be any cause of concern? Btw, am not running a stock endlink, mine is slightly shorted but the thread lenght is the same as the stock endlinks. |
04-07-2015, 05:18 PM | #40 |
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I have no issues with stock endlinks + Ohlins-supplied spacer on my car.
-alex |
04-09-2015, 12:10 AM | #41 |
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