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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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04-14-2016, 09:20 AM | #15 |
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Most of the R1R's secret sauce comes from when it's shaved for autocross use. It's a squirmy tire that doesn't like to be ham-fisted at full tread. It falls off noticably on track when pushed past its temperature happy place. We ran them at a crapcan race on a Miata, and that was a mistake from a longevity standpoint. Not even a light, balanced car can make them last, especially in warmer climates. There is no cheating or malice on Toyo's part. Like the V1 Hankook, it's just an old tire design from a marketing era when 140TW is what sold. I bet if you ran them on the street and weren't side-scrubbing them all the time, they would last about the same as a lot of other high-end summer tires.
A bunch of organizing bodies moved the UTQG goalposts to 200TW, and what happened? Tires got even better. Tire technology isn't static. It's a competitive category, and manufacturers are advancing the grip/longevity/predictability point. UTQC means something. These are still tires that have to be safe for street use until they hit the wear bars, and they are doing a remarkable job of being everything to everyone. It's excellent that so many solid choices now exist for so many applications. If you autocross, the RE71R tolerates a lot of heat cycles and grips fairly well down to nil tread without shaving half the tire off. That's a better value to autocrossers than 200TW's that turn to stone with a ton of tread left. Or if you track, you have legitimately streetable options that offer decent performance and longevity that best the old RA-1's/NT-01's for like money. Everyone can find the droid they are looking for. |
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05-04-2016, 03:58 PM | #16 |
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I am a believer that the VR-1s are basically RC-1s with treads cut in them. They grip relentlessly and are wearing great so far. They took all the heat of two 90 degree track days with 30 minute sessions and asked for more. I pushed the car as hard as I could and never once lost grip or felt greasy running them at 35 psi hot. I'm a happy first-time Maxxis customer! |
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05-04-2016, 04:38 PM | #17 |
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I really like how you've put together your car. I always enjoy your pictures, too.
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05-04-2016, 04:46 PM | #18 | |
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05-04-2016, 05:07 PM | #19 |
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Lol well it's a good starting point I guess. I was just using recommendations from a few others who have been using them so far. It may be too high...
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05-04-2016, 05:15 PM | #20 |
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I couldn't find any recommendations for this car so I looked around. Scoobie bugs eyes like 32-33psi. Renult Megans like 28-30psi. Lotus Elise like 26-28psi so I figured the 86 is somewhere between the latter two.
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05-05-2016, 03:00 PM | #21 | |
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Damn im running 35 to 37 PSI Hot on my RS-3's not as greasy as I was expecting. Aslo ran 34psi hot on a previous set of NS2r's those grip levels were extremely high with a 100/120TW very impressed with those tires but the RS3's seem a lot faster for some reason at a 200TW. Thinking of going a full R-Comp for the next set of tires NT01's Last edited by LavaLife; 05-05-2016 at 04:44 PM. |
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05-05-2016, 03:40 PM | #22 |
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I generally run between 33 and 38 on this platform, with a typical "EHP" or entry level r-compound.
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05-10-2016, 11:09 AM | #23 |
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05-10-2016, 01:17 PM | #24 |
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05-10-2016, 02:08 PM | #25 |
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05-10-2016, 02:53 PM | #26 | |
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Outer hotter than mid/inner = not enough camber. Inner hotter than mid/outer = too much camber. Take it with a grain of salt, as driving errors can produce irregular readings. |
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09-17-2016, 04:59 PM | #27 | |
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09-19-2016, 01:29 PM | #28 | |
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Edit: I run them around 32psi hot, and around -2.5F/-1.8R. I could probably stand to have a smidge more camber. Last edited by kch; 09-19-2016 at 01:56 PM. |
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