2013 BRZ Ls1 5.7, Hydra Nemesis - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

vijay.dy06 · 12-01-2018, 10:19 PM

Here is a list of probably 90% of the parts needed to do the swap and updates of how it sits currently. I'm still playingwith the tune, but it is drivable. I definately do not have traction even running 255 tires but this thing is super fun. I am guestimating that I'm making somewhere around 350hp which I think is plenty for me as of now. I still need to install my ISC coil overs and drop it maybe an inch to inch and a half. The CX Racing y pipe sits pretty low even on stock ride height. Lastly, I am digging my 17x9 Mach V Awesome wheels which clears my Brembos and are super light weighing in at 17.8lbs.

Zer0 · 12-01-2018, 11:13 PM

Looks good can't wait to see more. How will you be running your can bus accessories? Have not seen a swap thread using the Hydra unit.

vijay.dy06 · 12-02-2018, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zer0

Looks good can't wait to see more. How will you be running your can bus accessories? Have not seen a swap thread using the Hydra unit.

Thanks. The Hydra is a complete standalone that is capable of running 95% of the accessories. The only thing that it lacks are runnning cruise control and DBW TB. A few people are running it and Element Tuning uses it for their swapped FRS/BRZ. You can refer to Phil at ET if you have any technical questions though. Once I get it running I'll be able to provide more feedback.

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Zer0 · 12-02-2018, 05:12 PM

Sounds good thanks.

vijay.dy06 · 12-02-2018, 09:10 PM

Attempt number one of installing the engine and trans was a failure. It wasn't a surprise due to me not removing the tunnel brace. Just wanted to see if I could massage it instead of cutting it out. The sway bar seems to be in the way also. I'm running a GTO pan and CX mounts. Any recommendations to get them to clear? I'm sure once I remove the brace they'll fall into place.

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Merc · 12-02-2018, 11:37 PM

I am swapping a ls1 and t56 into a 2013 brz using the cx mounts. Im on the second whole and definitely had to cut and massage the tunnel. Check out Spitsnaugles build page he has some good pictures of the transmission tunnel points that will need to be cut and or beaten with a large hammer. Also the sway bar should clear but you may have to notch out a little metal on the trans to get more clearance (also a pic on spitsnaugles page) depends on what hole you use on the cx mounts. Also removing the sway bar may make dropping in the engine and trans a little easier and then put it back on and check clearance. Hope this helps

vijay.dy06 · 12-04-2018, 09:57 PM

Got the engine in. Had to remove the sway bar and put the rear end on jackstands. That helped a lot with room. As of now I have the engine too far back and will not clear the clutch master cylinder. I'll probably move the engine forward a hole or 2. I might have to space the motor mounts and subframe; grind the rib on the steering rack to get better clearance with the pan. I haven't install the trans bracket yet so that might be contributing to the reason the pan not clearing. I have good clearance in the trans tunnel, but might have to massage one area. Cutting the tabs off the trans helped a lot with clearance. I will probably also bend and move the fuel lines/brake lines to avoid any excessive heat from the headers along with wrapping them in thermal tape. Will get to these tasks tomorrow.

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vijay.dy06 · 12-08-2018, 11:09 AM

Got good clearances on everything except the heater core pipes. I really didn't want to cut them; possibly bend them down some?
Oil pan and CMC clears now that the trans bracket is mounted. Shifter sits in the perfect location.

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Ashikabi · 12-09-2018, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vijay.dy06

Attempt number one of installing the engine and trans was a failure. It wasn't a surprise due to me not removing the tunnel brace. Just wanted to see if I could massage it instead of cutting it out. The sway bar seems to be in the way also. I'm running a GTO pan and CX mounts. Any recommendations to get them to clear? I'm sure once I remove the brace they'll fall into place.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Sway bar should fit with modification to the oil pan

Edit, If you weren't married to that master cylinder, I believe Spitsnaugle used a different one that was recessed into the firewall. That would give you all the clearance you could want between that and the valve cover. Are you running AN hoses or regular rubber?

vijay.dy06 · 12-22-2018, 09:45 PM

Got everything installed and fired up and running Dec 18th. As I'm now I'm just trying to street tune the car. I have 2 leaks; 1 at the tail shaft and 1 at the oil pan sensor ports. Will fix those after the holidays and finish tuning it. Lastly is finish the exhaust cutout and getting the intake installed. Heres how it sits as of now.

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chazmuska · 12-23-2018, 06:37 AM

Dude that is beautiful! I hope I get to a video of it running!

Merc · 12-23-2018, 10:19 PM

Are you running your steam line straight to the radiator cap? I have the cx aluminum hardlines (looks like yours). I wasn't sure if that nipple by the cap is for the overflow or steam line?

vijay.dy06 · 12-23-2018, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merc

Are you running your steam line straight to the radiator cap? I have the cx aluminum hardlines (looks like yours). I wasn't sure if that nipple by the cap is for the overflow or steam line?

I tee'd the steam port, radiator cap to the overflow tank.

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Merc · 12-23-2018, 10:42 PM

Got it i think i can see it in one of the pictures now thanks. Its looking great so far by the way!

12-01-2018, 10:19 PM	#1
vijay.dy06 Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Drives: Red BRZ Location: North Carolina Posts: 66 Thanks: 1 Thanked 16 Times in 10 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	2013 BRZ Ls1 5.7, Hydra Nemesis Here is a list of probably 90% of the parts needed to do the swap and updates of how it sits currently. I'm still playingwith the tune, but it is drivable. I definately do not have traction even running 255 tires but this thing is super fun. I am guestimating that I'm making somewhere around 350hp which I think is plenty for me as of now. I still need to install my ISC coil overs and drop it maybe an inch to inch and a half. The CX Racing y pipe sits pretty low even on stock ride height. Lastly, I am digging my 17x9 Mach V Awesome wheels which clears my Brembos and are super light weighing in at 17.8lbs. Last edited by vijay.dy06; 01-11-2019 at 08:56 PM.

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12-01-2018, 11:13 PM	#2
Zer0 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Drives: 2015 frs Location: Ca Posts: 511 Thanks: 426 Thanked 196 Times in 148 Posts Mentioned: 5 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Looks good can't wait to see more. How will you be running your can bus accessories? Have not seen a swap thread using the Hydra unit.

12-02-2018, 05:12 PM	#4
Zer0 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Drives: 2015 frs Location: Ca Posts: 511 Thanks: 426 Thanked 196 Times in 148 Posts Mentioned: 5 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Sounds good thanks.

12-02-2018, 09:10 PM	#5
vijay.dy06 Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Drives: Red BRZ Location: North Carolina Posts: 66 Thanks: 1 Thanked 16 Times in 10 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Attempt number one of installing the engine and trans was a failure. It wasn't a surprise due to me not removing the tunnel brace. Just wanted to see if I could massage it instead of cutting it out. The sway bar seems to be in the way also. I'm running a GTO pan and CX mounts. Any recommendations to get them to clear? I'm sure once I remove the brace they'll fall into place. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

12-02-2018, 11:37 PM	#6
Merc Member Join Date: May 2017 Drives: Subaru brz 2013 LS1 swap Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 47 Thanks: 12 Thanked 14 Times in 6 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I am swapping a ls1 and t56 into a 2013 brz using the cx mounts. Im on the second whole and definitely had to cut and massage the tunnel. Check out Spitsnaugles build page he has some good pictures of the transmission tunnel points that will need to be cut and or beaten with a large hammer. Also the sway bar should clear but you may have to notch out a little metal on the trans to get more clearance (also a pic on spitsnaugles page) depends on what hole you use on the cx mounts. Also removing the sway bar may make dropping in the engine and trans a little easier and then put it back on and check clearance. Hope this helps

12-04-2018, 09:57 PM	#7
vijay.dy06 Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Drives: Red BRZ Location: North Carolina Posts: 66 Thanks: 1 Thanked 16 Times in 10 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Got the engine in. Had to remove the sway bar and put the rear end on jackstands. That helped a lot with room. As of now I have the engine too far back and will not clear the clutch master cylinder. I'll probably move the engine forward a hole or 2. I might have to space the motor mounts and subframe; grind the rib on the steering rack to get better clearance with the pan. I haven't install the trans bracket yet so that might be contributing to the reason the pan not clearing. I have good clearance in the trans tunnel, but might have to massage one area. Cutting the tabs off the trans helped a lot with clearance. I will probably also bend and move the fuel lines/brake lines to avoid any excessive heat from the headers along with wrapping them in thermal tape. Will get to these tasks tomorrow. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

12-08-2018, 11:09 AM	#8
vijay.dy06 Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Drives: Red BRZ Location: North Carolina Posts: 66 Thanks: 1 Thanked 16 Times in 10 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Got good clearances on everything except the heater core pipes. I really didn't want to cut them; possibly bend them down some? Oil pan and CMC clears now that the trans bracket is mounted. Shifter sits in the perfect location. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

12-22-2018, 09:45 PM	#10
vijay.dy06 Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Drives: Red BRZ Location: North Carolina Posts: 66 Thanks: 1 Thanked 16 Times in 10 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Got everything installed and fired up and running Dec 18th. As I'm now I'm just trying to street tune the car. I have 2 leaks; 1 at the tail shaft and 1 at the oil pan sensor ports. Will fix those after the holidays and finish tuning it. Lastly is finish the exhaust cutout and getting the intake installed. Heres how it sits as of now. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

12-23-2018, 06:37 AM	#11
chazmuska Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Drives: 2014 Scion FR-S Location: Arizona Posts: 80 Thanks: 19 Thanked 21 Times in 12 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Dude that is beautiful! I hope I get to a video of it running!

12-23-2018, 10:19 PM	#12
Merc Member Join Date: May 2017 Drives: Subaru brz 2013 LS1 swap Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 47 Thanks: 12 Thanked 14 Times in 6 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Are you running your steam line straight to the radiator cap? I have the cx aluminum hardlines (looks like yours). I wasn't sure if that nipple by the cap is for the overflow or steam line?

12-23-2018, 10:42 PM	#14
Merc Member Join Date: May 2017 Drives: Subaru brz 2013 LS1 swap Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 47 Thanks: 12 Thanked 14 Times in 6 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Got it i think i can see it in one of the pictures now thanks. Its looking great so far by the way!

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