08-21-2024, 04:37 PM | #1779 |
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08-21-2024, 04:57 PM | #1780 |
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Not everything was cheaper, but generally yes.
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08-21-2024, 05:01 PM | #1781 |
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I've been pretty critical of KPower, but as I put two years of fairly heavy track use on my K BRZ at competitive pace and I am wrapping up a K swap on my new car that doesn't have a kit I have a few thoughts in retrospect.
Their kit has flaws, but a lot of them have been remedied by KPower themselves or by other people in the community that have engineered solutions or figured out what works and what does not. * Pressure plates blowing up are no longer an issue since we all know * Driveshaft vibration has allegedly been solved by KPower, but we also know that shortening the stock driveshaft 5.5" and spacing it down works * Throttle body bolts / throttle body internal TPS dying has been solved by Emile's adapter sold through ASM * Selector shaft holes ovaling and allowing mis-shifts has been solved by Harrison who sells a steel selector shaft * The KPower wiring harness has been improved and we all know it's an issue so care is taken to pull test / anchor it well / etc. A number of CAN issues have also been solved by Haltech CAN protocol updates. * Getting the car to bleed has mostly been solved by running the second heater hose, trimming out the thermostat jiggle pin, and raising the car to the correct orientation (or just using a vacuum bleeder) * KPower fixed the improperly tapped water neck outlet threads so there won't be a leak there going forward * We know where the exhaust burns the chassis so heatshielding is a known thing * We know it drops oil pressure slightly on corner entry when the oil is at the full mark and with testing we know filling to the twist in the oil stick eliminates any drop * We know to limit throttle opening to about 92% for max power with Haltech * We know to watch the engine mounts for sagging before the pan hits the subframe KPower still fails at lead time and communication to existing owners when issues are discovered. The price of the kit isn't horrible after having pieced together everything on my own and considering the amount of time I've spent on it. Hell, wiring harness alone I am easily over a hundred hours of planning, routing, cutting, finding the right OEM connectors / pins, crimping, etc - it's insane. Doing everything over again knowing what I know now I'd still buy a number of pieces from the KPower kit. Anyway, just my thoughts after having done a non-kit K swap into a different chassis over the last couple months and doing its first start over this past weekend.
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08-21-2024, 06:02 PM | #1782 | |
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08-21-2024, 06:07 PM | #1783 | |
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That being said, I'm not saying you or anyone else is wrong. There is very little about doing this stuff that's "right" but that price is very steep given all that it really accomplishes. I also agree that the FA2x platform has shown some serious weakness but at least a FA24 is looking to be a pretty smart upgrade if you can address the weaknesses for lower cost. Maybe the $17k is a "somebody else is doing the work price" but, as much as I hate to say it, a LS swap seems to be a much bigger bang for the buck. Again, I'm not knocking anything but the money involved here. The K24 swap was very high on my list but if $17k is the number then I'm going to have to think of a different approach. |
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08-21-2024, 06:09 PM | #1784 | |
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As for the money, I'm in the 2% but I have a family and their future matters too. To each their own when it comes to money. |
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08-21-2024, 06:23 PM | #1785 |
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I've posted my spreadsheet on what it costs part by part before, when it comes down to it $10-15k on a swap is pretty much whatever in the context of what it costs to run 20-30 track days a year between entry, consumables, breakage/damage, etc if you're competitive. These things are capable of running deep into the pack and anything much faster is going to be a lot more expensive to build / run.
I sold my car for asking price ($32k), I know what I paid for it originally ($25k), I know more or less what I spent after doing the fudge math of selling/buying parts (~$2k out of pocket for my swap since my car came with a good motor, Harrop SC, bunch of mods that got removed for the swap, etc), etc. Really not that bad in the grand scheme of things.
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08-21-2024, 06:55 PM | #1786 |
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I don't see many drawbacks. The Oil issue is already can be fixed. Honestly for those who can do alot of the labor and fab work, K24 is a great option. But let's not deny that FA24 NA running on e85 and can get about 240WHP and a healthy 200 WTQ tuned. Yea its early, but my gen 1 motor running e85 and boost for a period is still ticking out on track near 100K on ODO. As Gen 2 motors get cheaper, I still stand by my statement that in my situation the FA24 is the better option.
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08-21-2024, 07:08 PM | #1787 |
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One of the major downsides is the bullshit lock-in of dealing with ECUTek, locked tunes, and dealing with the common tuners if you're not looking for a tune in a can with some small adjustments. That is now negated by the plug-in Link and others.
But yeah, the FA24 changes the calculus and it wasn't really an option until the last couple of months. When I did my swap there weren't even second gen dyno numbers floating around.
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08-21-2024, 07:22 PM | #1788 | |
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08-21-2024, 07:23 PM | #1789 |
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I know of someone running a FA24 in a first gen on it There is hope
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08-21-2024, 07:29 PM | #1790 | |
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Like for less motor and hassle I could get a harrop and make more power than a k24 but I still think a k24 is a cooler option and less headache and would be more reliable/ easier to cool on track. Also don't get me wrong I think the FA24 is a pretty sweet swap for the gen1 users and makes a lot of sense but if I could have both options be road legal I would pick the K even at double the price. It's just cooler and a much more popular platform for support in the racing/tuner world and only growing. You don't hear about people putting FA20/FA24 motors in other cars now do you lol. You can find K series in anything from Honda to Ferrari
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08-21-2024, 07:58 PM | #1791 | |
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08-21-2024, 11:20 PM | #1792 | |
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If I need to drop 5whp or pick up 5whp it takes me two minutes in Haltech without talking to a tuner.
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