KPower Industries K24 swap

[jflogerzi]

Will be watching this. If/When the engine pops over the next few seasons this will be on my radar. @Irace86.2.0 I will be using your thread as a guide

[B T]

Installation looks really clean! Thinking about moving this direction from my supercharger setup just for the weight reduction. Can't wait to see a review!

[captain awesome]

Installation instructions have been posted as well as the air intake and modified valve cover they have been using. I'll be looking into a DIY option for the valve cover for the time being. Also noticed they spec the k20 starter Denso 2800367, NOT the k24. The kit also uses Dayco 71718 lower radiator hose and Gates 23383 upper.



Installation instructions


Valve Cover


Air Intake

[Irace86.2.0]

Now all I need is my package to ship.

[ML]

Still need a starter and apparently intake and exhaust gaskets.

[Irace86.2.0]

The exhaust gasket is not included--pretty sure. The intake gasket is definitely included, unless they lied to me when I asked them in an email. They said all of their intake manifolds come with an OEM gasket. They made that a confusing point by suggesting people use the stock metal gasket versus a plastic gasket

I have the K24 starter. Wish I had been told the K20 was needed and not that they were using the K24 one, but maybe they didn't expect clearance problems. I could grind down the bell housing and adapter, as I don't really care if the bellhousing gets modified, but a K20 aftermarket starter is fairly inexpensive too. Just annoying a little.

I have a K24 condenser from an Accord. If the harness doesn't match up then I think I can just make a harness by buying the connector instead of buying a whole new condenser. I think it is just a power in and out.

I have the USDM alternator.

I will need to buy the suggested coolant hoses. Gates 23383 upper radiator hose Dayco 71718 lower radiator hose.

I'm hoping the AC lines don't get in the way of my stock airbox.


I think I will be mounting the wideband sensor further up the exhaust on the downpipe and route it through the firewall grommet. I need to wire up the ECU for the Flex Fuel sensor and the EBC solenoid.

I am unfamiliar with Haltech, having done reflashes of e-tunes with ECUTEK. I am hoping I can get an e-tune to get the car moving to a dyno, so I can break it in and sort out any wiring issues or any leaks before putting it on a dyno. The alternative is towing it to a dyno session and rolling the dice having never started the engine and needing to burp the cooling system. The only other possibility is scaling the injectors myself and staying out of boost, if learning how to scale is easy or just a matter of programing in the basic parameters of the specific injectors; maybe there is a drop down menu--I don't know. I might not be able to stay out of boost on this turbo. Would be nice to at least vet the motor, even if I do have to tow it to a dyno session.

EDIT: And someone asked on Instagram.

[ML]

Could someone measure the diameter of the ac pulley for me?

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by ML

Could someone measure the diameter of the ac pulley for me?

I keep forgetting to get this for you. I'll try to remember tonight.




And a quick update. Should be receiving my tracking number any moment now, but looks like I will get an incomplete kit. Since I ordered a steel flywheel that part won't be shipped for another 2-3 weeks.... dang. I mean I guess I can test fit everything and have that be the ONLY thing left to install. Woulda been cooler if it was just a dumb hose or something. Oh well.

Our flywheel manufacturer has only gotten us Aluminum, they had some supply issues with getting steel, but they are currently working on machining them right now. We should have them at our location in 2-3 weeks. We appreciate your patience with this.

[ML]

Got my tracking today! Should be here Saturday with my Haltech dash.

[Irace86.2.0]

I got my tracking, but I also am waiting on the steel flywheel.

[captain awesome]

Anyone here going to run a 3" exhaust with this kit? I was planning to keep the stock front pipe back, but then see the instructions show it's been deleted and the Kpower header bolts up to the mid pipe. For now I'll run an adapter to the stock mid pipe, but would be nice if there is a semi quiet 3" option. I'm assuming dual with non tube style muffler is going to be the best bet?

[ML]

KPower said in their experience they lose power with less than 3”

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by ML

KPower said in their experience they lose power with less than 3”

I’m curious how much power loss and what kind of decibel jump you get from stock or 2.5”. May just have to dyno and find out myself. I honestly don’t care if I lose 10hp for the sake of a quieter experience. I’m getting old and crotchety now.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Anyone here going to run a 3" exhaust with this kit? I was planning to keep the stock front pipe back, but then see the instructions show it's been deleted and the Kpower header bolts up to the mid pipe. For now I'll run an adapter to the stock mid pipe, but would be nice if there is a semi quiet 3" option. I'm assuming dual with non tube style muffler is going to be the best bet?

I have a 2.5” catback, 2.5” Berk frontpipe that I hope clears, but I’ll modify it if not, and then a 3” to 2.5” downpipe. Planning on 350-400whp for now. I like smaller diameter pipes with more velocity for sound than making max power.

3” seems like a lot for a NA 2.4L, but if they say there is a significant difference then ok.