Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[FrickingReallySlow]

Originally Posted by B T

I didn't see any large change in IAT from this mod from what I recall. On long trips before the mod, I was running roughly 23-25 degrees F above ambient. It may have gone up a small amount, like 2 degrees after. Covering my oil cooler (because of it's location) raised my IAT's by an additional 25 degrees C for comparison.

I'm guessing your tuner was okay with this too. Btw what's the reason we can't just use the threaded plugged hole in the back of the edelbrock for the MAP? its used for sensing boost pressure with an analog gauge? See this post

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...&postcount=124

[FrickingReallySlow]

Originally Posted by Muskoka800

035051-0157
This is for the dry filter. I ordered mine from Summit. My used kit came with the oiled filter which I have cleaned and saved for back-up (un-oiled).
To be honest they look identical once clean (with K&N cleaner).

Also jegs, a bit expensive though its officially the one from edelbrock

https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/51-0157/10002/-1

[Decep]

I just cleaned my air filter and reoiled it very lightly a few months ago.

I made a dumb mistake of thinking the air filter was dry when it really wasn't... lol... make sure to let these things dry all the way. If you need it quicker then put it some distance away from a space heater at least.

I haven't tried the dry filter... this is a cleanable filter or is it a one timer?

[shr133]

Hey guys, so does anyone know what I need to change to calibrate a grams throttle body. I had to get my radiator warrantied and while I had it apart decided to upgrade the TB. it ran great last night and today until it didn't. It's throwing codes p0122 and p0222... and won't relearn the TB and keeps going into limp mode.

I think I should replace my pedal sensor to make sure because it was running perfectly and all of a sudden when into limp mode... Any help would be great... It fits perfectly just need a 3.25" to 3.5" adapter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091521446...t_details&th=1

[Brewster]

Originally Posted by Decep

I just cleaned my air filter and reoiled it very lightly a few months ago.

I made a dumb mistake of thinking the air filter was dry when it really wasn't... lol... make sure to let these things dry all the way. If you need it quicker then put it some distance away from a space heater at least.

I haven't tried the dry filter... this is a cleanable filter or is it a one timer?

At $100, one would think it'd be cleanable.

[Muskoka800]

Originally Posted by Brewster

At $100, one would think it'd be cleanable.

Yes, the same cleaning solution is used as is used for the oiled version.

[SOCON]

Originally Posted by SOCON

Has anyone attempted to replace the clutch on an Eforce equipped engine?
Were you able to accomplish this without removing the supercharger first?
Thanks

I appreciate the feedback from this question.
Of the many ways to skin this cat, this is the solution I ended up with. A Harbor Freight engine support ~80 bucks. Was able to remove six bolts securing S/C to head and lift ~3 inches to easily remove slave cylinder bolts and transmission electrical connections. Did not have to remove any coolant, vacuum, or plugs. Woo Hoo! I only wish the rest of clutch replacement had gone so well

[Brewster]

Originally Posted by shr133

Hey guys, so does anyone know what I need to change to calibrate a grams throttle body. I had to get my radiator warrantied and while I had it apart decided to upgrade the TB. it ran great last night and today until it didn't. It's throwing codes p0122 and p0222... and won't relearn the TB and keeps going into limp mode.

I think I should replace my pedal sensor to make sure because it was running perfectly and all of a sudden when into limp mode... Any help would be great... It fits perfectly just need a 3.25" to 3.5" adapter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091521446...t_details&th=1

Maybe a loose or dirty wiring connection ?

[B T]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

I'm guessing your tuner was okay with this too. Btw what's the reason we can't just use the threaded plugged hole in the back of the edelbrock for the MAP? its used for sensing boost pressure with an analog gauge? See this post

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...&postcount=124

I don't see any reason you couldn't. Most people wouldn't want to take the time to pull their supercharger and order a new port to install though. It should work just as well as the method I supplied.

[toast]

Originally Posted by SOCON

I appreciate the feedback from this question.
Of the many ways to skin this cat, this is the solution I ended up with. A Harbor Freight engine support ~80 bucks. Was able to remove six bolts securing S/C to head and lift ~3 inches to easily remove slave cylinder bolts and transmission electrical connections. Did not have to remove any coolant, vacuum, or plugs. Woo Hoo! I only wish the rest of clutch replacement had gone so well

That is pretty fantastic, I've never seen one of those. Every time I had to pull the SC I had to have a friend come over and hope we didn't gouge the gasket taking it off and putting it in.

Definitely would make the slave easier to get to. I remember using a stubby 14, 1/8 turn, flip the wrench over, 1/8 turn and doing it forever.

[toast]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

I'm guessing your tuner was okay with this too. Btw what's the reason we can't just use the threaded plugged hole in the back of the edelbrock for the MAP? its used for sensing boost pressure with an analog gauge? See this post

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...&postcount=124

That is where I put my tap for my boost gauge...

[SOCON]

Originally Posted by toast

That is pretty fantastic, I've never seen one of those. Every time I had to pull the SC I had to have a friend come over and hope we didn't gouge the gasket taking it off and putting it in.

Definitely would make the slave easier to get to. I remember using a stubby 14, 1/8 turn, flip the wrench over, 1/8 turn and doing it forever.

https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...bar-96524.html

[BRZBuzz]

After reading all the recent posts pertaining to air filter service and/or replacement, I became inquisitive to if I purchased a new air filter if it would be a) manufactured using K&N's dry synthetic filtration material that should never have oil applied to it, or b) made with the same cotton filtration material, as past filters, and simply not oiled. For this reason, I called Edelbrock's Tech. Assistance today. Below is the information they passed along to me:

1) For our applications, Edelbrock switched to a dry filter without the use of grease on the outer edges somewhere around 2017.
2) The non-oiled dry air filter they place in the kits, and you would purchase today as a replacement filter from other vendors (e.g., Summit, Jegs), is NOT the dry synthetic K&N air filtration material, but simply the same cotton material, as used in the past, without oil applied.
3) As previously posted by others, Edelbrock now recommends for those with earlier oiled filters to simply clean all oil and grease from these filters, let them completely dry, then place back into service.


I want to thank everyone for their help and great posts. I hope this helps clarify some concerns.

[Decep]

That.. seems like a bad idea if that's true. Recommending an unoiled K&N filter designed to be used with oil to catch particles is a bush league move