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Old 05-25-2021, 05:18 AM   #9101
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From the Sprintex manual:



As long as it is fully synthetic and matches the specs required, you shouldn't have any issue with any reputable brand of your choice.
Yeah I knew they recommend a 75W-90 gear oil, was more curious if anyone had experience with a brand Not sure how much of the Tribodyn product description is pure markting BS?

I'm probably just going to go with Motul Gear 300. I use it in my transmisison and diff already.
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Old 05-25-2021, 08:30 AM   #9102
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You guys just stick a syringe and tubing into your SC until you hit the bottom and then suck everything out, right? I need to change mine and I'm nervous about doing it for the first time lol.
basically what i did and most likely others have also. just remember not to over tighten the dip stick, the threads inside are easy to stripped. i learned that the hard way haha

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Old 05-28-2021, 11:33 PM   #9103
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Yes. the oil dipstick. I rebuild the screw thread, with Stainless steel.
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2013 Subaru BRZ 6AT; Rays 57XTREME STD SPEC 18' 9.5J Wheels; TEIN FLEX Z Coilovers; Brembo OE Gold Front Brake Kit(STI); Sprintex 210 SC;GReddy GT ver.2 Exhaust; CUSCO strut bar F/R...
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Old 05-29-2021, 08:59 PM   #9104
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Ironic that I come back here today with the same dipstick problem (I assume). Mine just spins now, any ideas on how to get it out?
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Old 07-23-2021, 08:47 PM   #9105
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How many belts have you guys went through? Went through 2 belts so far 16k miles in. First one went in 500 miles, marked it off as a fluke. Second one went after 15.5k miles.

72.5mm pulley with Gates K061015. Easy fix but got stranded a few days ago. Going to keep an extra belt and a ratchet in my car next time. Maybe I should try the blue racing version from Gates (K061015RB) but it seems to be out of stock.

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Old 07-23-2021, 11:16 PM   #9106
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How many belts have you guys went through? Went through 2 belts so far 16k miles in. First one went in 500 miles, marked it off as a fluke. Second one went after 15.5k miles.

72.5mm pulley with Gates K061015. Easy fix but got stranded a few days ago. Going to keep an extra belt and a ratchet in my car next time. Maybe I should try the blue racing version from Gates (K061015RB) but it seems to be out of stock.
Is your idler pulley correctly shimmed? I remember something about belts being shred if they’re not correctly aligned. I have run 20k on my belt and my friend (who’s kit I installed) has run about 40k if I remember correctly
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Old 07-27-2021, 09:55 AM   #9107
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Originally Posted by sqd View Post
Yeah I knew they recommend a 75W-90 gear oil, was more curious if anyone had experience with a brand Not sure how much of the Tribodyn product description is pure markting BS?

I'm probably just going to go with Motul Gear 300. I use it in my transmisison and diff already.
I'm afraid I can't provide any practical brand experience yet as I unfortunately haven't been able to clock up many kms yet or any track kms at all yet. I would say that if it sounds like marketing BS then it probably is. Not to say that it may not still be a quality product though.

Keep in mind that I don't believe Motul Gear 300 is MT1 rated. Though I'm not sure how important this is.

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...just remember not to over tighten the dip stick, the threads inside are easy to stripped. i learned that the hard way haha
How did you repair yours?

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Yes. the oil dipstick. I rebuild the screw thread, with Stainless steel.
Do you mean with a stainless helicoil repair kit? How is it holding up / How is it going?

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Originally Posted by Astro2015 View Post
Ironic that I come back here today with the same dipstick problem (I assume). Mine just spins now, any ideas on how to get it out?
Can you see evidence of oil leaking? If so, I would be careful putting load on the SC until you get it fixed as you may be running little to no oil in there if it has all been pushed out under load.

I would start by putting as much upwards pressure as possible with your fingers while turning. From there I would try prying upwards with a flathead screwdriver underneath the dipstick while turning, otherwise pulling up with pliers while turning. If it is really stubborn you may end up needing to evenly get under each side of the dipstick with a flathead and just hammer the thread completely flat to get it out. Then straight onto the repair or replacement.
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Old 07-29-2021, 07:14 PM   #9108
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Is your idler pulley correctly shimmed? I remember something about belts being shred if they’re not correctly aligned. I have run 20k on my belt and my friend (who’s kit I installed) has run about 40k if I remember correctly
I'm not entirely sure if everything is up to 100% alignment. I just swap the belts and make sure that it's snug and turn the car on. If the belt doesn't fly off within 5 miles, I assume it's fully seated. I'm no expert though.. I suck at DIY.

Can you tell if the belt is put on correctly from these pictures? Funny enough, my whole ownership with this kit came with belt squeaking whenever I turn on the car. Anyone know what I should check first to address the squeaking?



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Old 08-03-2021, 10:23 AM   #9109
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How did you repair yours?



Do you mean with a stainless helicoil repair kit? How is it holding up / How is it going?
i did exactly this. just be sure to buy the right thread size of the kit, if you want to reuse the dipstick.
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Old 08-03-2021, 09:23 PM   #9110
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Belt #3 snapped today. Think i'm going to replace idler pulley too this time. It did look worn out and the edge of it appeared to be melting a bit.
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Old 08-10-2021, 02:29 PM   #9111
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Originally Posted by Ads View Post

Can you see evidence of oil leaking? If so, I would be careful putting load on the SC until you get it fixed as you may be running little to no oil in there if it has all been pushed out under load.

I would start by putting as much upwards pressure as possible with your fingers while turning. From there I would try prying upwards with a flathead screwdriver underneath the dipstick while turning, otherwise pulling up with pliers while turning. If it is really stubborn you may end up needing to evenly get under each side of the dipstick with a flathead and just hammer the thread completely flat to get it out. Then straight onto the repair or replacement.

Thanks for the advice. No oil leaking fortunately, I had just finished installing the kit. Turns out I crossthreaded the hell out of it. I had a shop extract it for me and re-tap the thread. Had them change the gear oil too since it was contaminated with metal pieces. Expensive lesson, don't rush the small things just to finish... so it goes..

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Old 08-13-2021, 02:07 PM   #9112
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Anyone know the part number for the vacuum actuator for the bypass valve for the 335? Pretty sure its different from the 210.


I'm trying to order a new one from Jon Bond Performance, but not sure which one since they offer a ton of them. I haven't been able to get in contact with either Jon or Sprintex, but Jon did ship out some gaskets for me when I ordered through the website. So, if I could just order the right one it would save me a bunch of time and headache.
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Old 08-17-2021, 02:02 PM   #9113
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Does anyone know if Innovate or Sprintex are still producing their kits for the platform? Innovate doesn't show the unit on their webpage anymore (but you can get there using the old URL), and Sprintex doesn't show it on their webpage either. Sprintex also hasn't replied to my e-mail inquiry.

I'd really love to put a twin-screw on my BRZ.
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Old 12-16-2021, 09:36 PM   #9114
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Has anyone ever inspected seals or changed the bearing on Sprintex S5-210's?

Sprintex nor Jon Bond are replaying to my inquires. I am looking for torque specifications.

My unit was previously owned. The oil leaks onto my rotors and is the reason why the intake manifold and intercooler were full of gunk.

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