Upgrading suspension from stock, do I need to consider rear negative camber?

[marco_mc22]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

It's the double wishbone design in the rear. The front is macpherson strut. A lot of other performance oriented cars use double wishbone or double a-arm on both ends. They chose not to in the twins because of how wide the boxer is, not enough room for upper control arm in the front. Or at least that is the rumor as to why.

It’s just cheaper, way cheaper, especially if you can use same Subaru parts of other platforms ahahah

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by marco_mc22

It’s just cheaper, way cheaper, especially if you can use same Subaru parts of other platforms ahahah

Yeah I know. I had always heard packaging being tight as a rumor. Cost above all is probably the primary.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Yeah I know. I had always heard packaging being tight as a rumor. Cost above all is probably the primary.

It can and probably is a bit of both. Each of these things does not exist in isolation from the other.

[Racecomp Engineering]

They certainly weren't going to design an all new suspension architecture for the BRZ/86...the existing Subaru design was the only way (tweaked obviously for the specific car).

- Andrew

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

They certainly weren't going to design an all new suspension architecture for the BRZ/86...the existing Subaru design was the only way (tweaked obviously for the specific car).

- Andrew

You mean they aren't hand built to individual specifications by master craftsmen?

[CedN]

I did the upgrade some people mention in the thread. 2019 low mileage dampers and whiteline lowering springs, and camber bolts up front. It made the car more compliant over harsh bumps, even though it was lowered. Balance on track is way more neutral than the oversteer bonanza that was the original set-up. I still fry my tyre walls, but at least slightly less so. The alignment made and balance change was great, could attack much harder into the corners, and it feels more agile aswell.

Would ideally want less camber at the rear, but i dont have any adjustability there, at least not for now.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by CedN

I did the upgrade some people mention in the thread. 2019 low mileage dampers and whiteline lowering springs, and camber bolts up front. It made the car more compliant over harsh bumps, even though it was lowered. Balance on track is way more neutral than the oversteer bonanza that was the original set-up. I still fry my tyre walls, but at least slightly less so. The alignment made and balance change was great, could attack much harder into the corners, and it feels more agile aswell.

Would ideally want less camber at the rear, but i don't have any adjustability there, at least not for now.

The rear camber won't mater much. adjustability in the rear is very simple and cheap to add when rdy.

[Spairo]

I am going to revive this thread with a question. I am about to replace my rear upper controls since I found a torn boot on the drivers side upper ball joint. Are the two inner bolts on the UCA adjustable for alignment?

They don't look to be, but then I found this in the factory manual:

c) Inspect and adjust the toe-in and camber. (1) Inspect the toe-in and camber. Inspect the toe-in and camber. If the values are not within the specified ranges, adjust the installation bolt holding the rear suspension member to the vehicle body, or the bolt holding the upper control arm and rear suspension arm so that the values fall within the specified ranges

The question really boils down to: After getting an alignment in the spring, do I have to shell out another $140 for an alignment after I replace the UCA's?

Thanks,

Go Fast, Take Chances

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Spairo

The question really boils down to: After getting an alignment in the spring, do I have to shell out another $140 for an alignment after I replace the UCA's?

1. No two manufactured parts are exactly the same,
2. Even when reassembling the same parts, they won't go together exactly the same way.

Yes, always verify/adjust alignment after making any changes to related components.

[Spairo]

OK. So obviously, that's not what I REALLY wanted to hear, but am I missing something, or is the only adjustment in the rear (with factory parts) the toe?

[Ohio Enthusiast]

Originally Posted by Spairo

is the only adjustment in the rear (with factory parts) the toe?

Yes, there is no rear camber adjustment without going aftermarket.

The service manual instructs using crash bolts ("service bolt") for front camber adjustment. Front caster and rear camber are non adjustable and the manual states "inspect the suspension parts for damage and wear" without recourse for adjustments.