follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Speed By Design
Register Garage Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting

Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


User Tag List
go_a_way1

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-17-2016, 01:05 PM   #4019
14stu
Senior Member
 
14stu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: 2014 Subaru BRZ
Location: Grapevine, TX
Posts: 588
Thanks: 22
Thanked 429 Times in 247 Posts
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
I live in Texas, autox religiously (30+ events a year), and track regularly (6-8 per year). From June-September we are lucky if it is under 100*F and during the summer the lows creep into the mid 80's.

Step 1: hydrate. I freeze a 2L of water and take a couple of sports drinks with me to each event and rarely come back with anything other than empties.

Step 2: cooling for the car. Wrap/coat your headers, get an oil cooler, drop in a bigger radiator (if needed). Don't skimp on the mods that prevent the stuff that keeps you from driving.

Step 3: acceptance. It will be hot, you will get hot, the car will get hot, and no one will feel sorry for you. Deal with it, there is no other solution.
14stu is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to 14stu For This Useful Post:
DocWalt (06-17-2016), strat61caster (06-17-2016), wparsons (06-17-2016)
Old 06-17-2016, 02:26 PM   #4020
DocWalt
Senior Member
 
DocWalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Drives: '22 BRZ
Location: PA
Posts: 1,829
Thanks: 2,293
Thanked 1,470 Times in 765 Posts
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Buy a spare coil and swap it out next time you get the CEL. That's my plan anyway, cause I know it will happen sooner or later and I don't want it to impact my fun.
DocWalt is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to DocWalt For This Useful Post:
strat61caster (06-17-2016)
Old 06-17-2016, 02:44 PM   #4021
jjaisli
Senior Member
 
jjaisli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S Firestorm
Location: The Ramapo Mountains NJ
Posts: 248
Thanks: 212
Thanked 155 Times in 94 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 14stu View Post
I live in Texas, autox religiously (30+ events a year), and track regularly (6-8 per year). From June-September we are lucky if it is under 100*F and during the summer the lows creep into the mid 80's.

Step 1: hydrate. I freeze a 2L of water and take a couple of sports drinks with me to each event and rarely come back with anything other than empties.

Step 2: cooling for the car. Wrap/coat your headers, get an oil cooler, drop in a bigger radiator (if needed). Don't skimp on the mods that prevent the stuff that keeps you from driving.

Step 3: acceptance. It will be hot, you will get hot, the car will get hot, and no one will feel sorry for you. Deal with it, there is no other solution.
LOL I appreciate the advise, but I wasn't trying to make a sympathy garnering post, if that's how it came across. My wife is from the Palm Springs area so I understand what the heat can do. I was drinking about 5-6L of fluid per day, wrapping cold, wet towels around my head and neck and putting ice packs in my helmet 5 minutes before my runs and doing what I could to stay cool. And when I wasn't in the car, I was scampering back to the media center where there was at least some shade and mild AC.

What I'm trying to figure out if there's a correlation between high temperatures, the 0351 code, potential damage to the coil packs (or if it's really just a sensor error) and if the situation is being made worse from my unwrapped header. There's already a big debate if the header should be wrapped and Open Flash has suggested not to. But if it means NOT overheating the car, I'd still consider it. I just don't want to go through the hassle and expense if it's not likely to make a difference.

For what it's worth, 6 weeks to the day that I set foot in the VIR paddock, I was up at Watkins Glen where the HIGH was 48*F, the rain was pelting down and the wind was blowing right through you. If you didn't keep moving, you lost feeling in your fingers and toes. The only comfortable place to be was the men's room because it had a small heater blowing. My main concern that day was that the oil cooler wasn't allowing the oil to get up to normal operating temperature just driving to the track. So I'm dealing with some extremes here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DocWalt View Post
Buy a spare coil and swap it out next time you get the CEL. That's my plan anyway, cause I know it will happen sooner or later and I don't want it to impact my fun.
I'm a bit embarrassed to admit this, but I don't turn wrenches and I have very little mechanical knowledge. I swap my wheels and tires and not much more. Exactly what's involved in replacing the coil pack?
jjaisli is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2016, 03:07 PM   #4022
strat61caster
-
 
strat61caster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Drives: '13 FRS - STX
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 10,364
Thanks: 13,732
Thanked 9,476 Times in 4,997 Posts
Mentioned: 94 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by wupwise View Post
People who swap in race pads just for the track, do you swap rotors as well? If not, do you re-bed in your pads at each track day?
I do the same as @DocWalt with my XP10's and have been very happy with it so far. I slap 'em in the night before and drive to the track and back with them in, take the first session cautiously and then let 'er rip.

Some compounds may not take well to that, idk, but I'd feel confident trying it at least once on other makes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjaisli View Post
I'm a bit embarrassed to admit this, but I don't turn wrenches and I have very little mechanical knowledge. I swap my wheels and tires and not much more. Exactly what's involved in replacing the coil pack?
If I could change one thing about the aftermarket it'd be a solution for the coil packs, it's really the only thing that's given me trouble so far. I've got one that I know will throw a code next time I hit the track and it will pull power from me when exiting a corner onto a straight. But I haven't been to the track in months, I almost forgot it was going to be an issue for my next outing.

Replacing isn't impossible, but I wouldn't want to try it between sessions, it's going to be mighty hot in there. It's the boot that goes on the spark plug, so it's like changing the spark plug, without changing the spark plug, but it's a subaru so, boxer engine yay.

This thread covers most of it all:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30879

And here's a quick DIY without pictures:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=198

You can also follow any DIY spark plug replacement, just don't change the spark plugs and swap out the coilpacks.

Edit: Delaying the inevitable in case a stealth upgrade gets inserted into the product line to extend their lifespan. I've had it happen once on the street and at about half the track days I've gone to, never at an autox.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guff View Post
ineedyourdiddly
strat61caster is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post:
DocWalt (06-17-2016), jjaisli (06-17-2016)
Old 06-17-2016, 03:19 PM   #4023
jjaisli
Senior Member
 
jjaisli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S Firestorm
Location: The Ramapo Mountains NJ
Posts: 248
Thanks: 212
Thanked 155 Times in 94 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by strat61caster View Post
... I've got one that I know will throw a code next time I hit the track and it will pull power from me when exiting a corner onto a straight....
So...are you basically saying, once it starts throwing the code, it's kind of a given that it will keep doing it? If that's the case I guess it would just make sense to have it replaced now. As I said, somewhat ironically, in 3 years and about 25 some odd track days, it's the first time I've ever had the check engine light come on. And thanks for the link. I'll have a look.
jjaisli is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2016, 03:29 PM   #4024
DocWalt
Senior Member
 
DocWalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Drives: '22 BRZ
Location: PA
Posts: 1,829
Thanks: 2,293
Thanked 1,470 Times in 765 Posts
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Yes, it will keep happening. Replace it now before it ruins another track day.
DocWalt is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to DocWalt For This Useful Post:
CSG Mike (06-17-2016), jjaisli (06-17-2016), ZionsWrath (06-17-2016)
Old 06-17-2016, 03:32 PM   #4025
strat61caster
-
 
strat61caster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Drives: '13 FRS - STX
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 10,364
Thanks: 13,732
Thanked 9,476 Times in 4,997 Posts
Mentioned: 94 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjaisli View Post
So...are you basically saying, once it starts throwing the code, it's kind of a given that it will keep doing it? If that's the case I guess it would just make sense to have it replaced now. As I said, somewhat ironically, in 3 years and about 25 some odd track days, it's the first time I've ever had the check engine light come on. And thanks for the link. I'll have a look.
imo I'd bet money it will show up at your next track day. Maybe not in the first session, maybe not until your last lap. First time I had it the light went off in my last two sessions for the day, didn't have a scanner didn't know what it was. I did the same thing, pulled off and panicked. Missed 1/4 of a session due to it and took it super easy the last session. The next time I pulled the code, said 'fuck it' and ran it hard.

It won't break anything to my knowledge, but it did pull power for me and it does obscure a warning light that may actually be of importance.

But people have blown the car up without a single check engine light, I'm starting to think it's more useless than I had assumed...
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guff View Post
ineedyourdiddly
strat61caster is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post:
jjaisli (06-17-2016)
Old 06-17-2016, 03:45 PM   #4026
CSG Mike
 
CSG Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: S2000 CR
Location: Orange County
Posts: 14,530
Thanks: 8,918
Thanked 14,175 Times in 6,834 Posts
Mentioned: 966 Post(s)
Tagged: 14 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjaisli View Post
So I live in North Jersey and just ran VIR & Road Atlanta back to back (driving to both tracks). I don't know how you guys in the southwest do it. I was literally dying out there with the heat and humidity. I think I managed 14 out of a possible 20 total sessions. And at least half of them I ran short. VIR was a high of 90* and Road Atlanta was 98* on the Saturday. Just brutal.

Anyway, the car was OK at VIR but I was continually getting a CEL at RA, 0351. The first time I contacted my shop and they confirmed that it was a coil pack and they had experienced it as well and it was OK to reset it. (In 20 track days over 2.5 years, it's the first time I EVER had the check engine light come on in the car).

However, after that, the check engine light kept coming on after 2-3 laps into every session. The same code 0351. One of the guys from Chin said they see it all the time with hot temperatures and it's likely just the sensors overheating and not necessarily the coilpack itself. The problem is likely made much worse because I'm running an Open Flash header (& stage II tune) which is unshielded and is likely causing a tremendous heat build up.

When the check engine light came on, the traction control light also quickly flashed, even though I had the TC off. And the car seemed to hesitate at lower RPM and generally felt a bit sluggish. The car ran fine on the road all the way back to NJ and the check engine light hasn't come back on. So my question(s) are:

1. Do those of you who do track events with ambient temperatures > 90* frequently pull a cel 0351?

2. Has this eventually (or ever) resulted in a failed coil pack?

3. This may be somewhat obvious but would you recommend having the header wrapped or coated? I'm running an oil cooler but the stock radiator.

4. Was I right to pit when the check engine light came on or just being over cautious? (Frankly, my body was telling me to anyway. How in the HELL do you guys drive in 100* temperatures). Bleuch.

My next two events are Watkins Glen and Mont Tremblant so I doubt I'm going to see those kind of temperatures again but one never knows.
1. Some people do, but it's an issue that can be permanently fixed. A nice temporary fix is to just carry an extra coil pack, and swap it when it happens again. They're not too expensive (~100 bucks)

2. Your coil pack is already degraded; that flashing slip light is your car repeatedly tripping a CEL, from misfiring. You'll also feel hesitation in your power delivery, and can see it in logs.

3. No need, but wrapping the header can marginally improve power.

4. Absolutely. Preserve the car. Although you're not racing, remember, in a race, if you don't finish, you're last.


You should see the 120+ temps we get out here in California


Also, get rid of that OFT, and get a proper tune.
CSG Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post:
jjaisli (06-17-2016), ZionsWrath (06-17-2016)
Old 06-17-2016, 04:54 PM   #4027
jjaisli
Senior Member
 
jjaisli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S Firestorm
Location: The Ramapo Mountains NJ
Posts: 248
Thanks: 212
Thanked 155 Times in 94 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Got it! Thanks everybody for the input!
jjaisli is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2016, 04:58 PM   #4028
EAGLE5
Dismember
 
EAGLE5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: 2013 Red Scion FR-S
Location: Castro Valley
Posts: 5,557
Thanks: 2,152
Thanked 3,999 Times in 2,155 Posts
Mentioned: 43 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Garage
Thunder Hill is often a bit hotter than 100 in the summer.
EAGLE5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2016, 06:01 PM   #4029
ZionsWrath
Thanks
 
ZionsWrath's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Drives: BRZ
Location: NY
Posts: 4,163
Thanks: 5,989
Thanked 3,100 Times in 1,498 Posts
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjaisli View Post
So I live in North Jersey and just ran VIR & Road Atlanta back to back (driving to both tracks). I don't know how you guys in the southwest do it. I was literally dying out there with the heat and humidity. I think I managed 14 out of a possible 20 total sessions. And at least half of them I ran short. VIR was a high of 90* and Road Atlanta was 98* on the Saturday. Just brutal.

Anyway, the car was OK at VIR but I was continually getting a CEL at RA, 0351. The first time I contacted my shop and they confirmed that it was a coil pack and they had experienced it as well and it was OK to reset it. (In 20 track days over 2.5 years, it's the first time I EVER had the check engine light come on in the car).

However, after that, the check engine light kept coming on after 2-3 laps into every session. The same code 0351. One of the guys from Chin said they see it all the time with hot temperatures and it's likely just the sensors overheating and not necessarily the coilpack itself. The problem is likely made much worse because I'm running an Open Flash header (& stage II tune) which is unshielded and is likely causing a tremendous heat build up.

When the check engine light came on, the traction control light also quickly flashed, even though I had the TC off. And the car seemed to hesitate at lower RPM and generally felt a bit sluggish. The car ran fine on the road all the way back to NJ and the check engine light hasn't come back on. So my question(s) are:

1. Do those of you who do track events with ambient temperatures > 90* frequently pull a cel 0351?

2. Has this eventually (or ever) resulted in a failed coil pack?

3. This may be somewhat obvious but would you recommend having the header wrapped or coated? I'm running an oil cooler but the stock radiator.

4. Was I right to pit when the check engine light came on or just being over cautious? (Frankly, my body was telling me to anyway. How in the HELL do you guys drive in 100* temperatures). Bleuch.

My next two events are Watkins Glen and Mont Tremblant so I doubt I'm going to see those kind of temperatures again but one never knows.
Yea I got it twice. First time was at VIR, I think that track builds a lot of heat in our engine bay for some reason. Another time the next year at NJMP lightning that caused a bad misfire. Needless to say I carry a spare in my toolbox and flex head long reach 1/4 ratchet.

Too bad I wasn't there you could have had my spare ♥
__________________
ZionsWrath is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ZionsWrath For This Useful Post:
jjaisli (06-18-2016)
Old 06-17-2016, 08:43 PM   #4030
marusteri
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2013 BRZ Limited AT
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 15
Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Tein SRC CSG spec: torque for the top front camber adjustment bolts?
I was planning to install it tomorrow, rechecked the instructions and realized there's no mention about the torque for the 4 nuts that you loosen to slide the top of the front strut in the plate to adjust the camber. Suspension thread and this thread don't have the answer either (unless I don't know how to use google).
Anybody has the official values from Tein? I believe I have common sense but I don't feel like guessing these.
Thanks,
Florin
marusteri is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2016, 03:04 AM   #4031
CSG Mike
 
CSG Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: S2000 CR
Location: Orange County
Posts: 14,530
Thanks: 8,918
Thanked 14,175 Times in 6,834 Posts
Mentioned: 966 Post(s)
Tagged: 14 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by marusteri View Post
Tein SRC CSG spec: torque for the top front camber adjustment bolts?
I was planning to install it tomorrow, rechecked the instructions and realized there's no mention about the torque for the 4 nuts that you loosen to slide the top of the front strut in the plate to adjust the camber. Suspension thread and this thread don't have the answer either (unless I don't know how to use google).
Anybody has the official values from Tein? I believe I have common sense but I don't feel like guessing these.
Thanks,
Florin
I don't know the official values, but "hand tight". It's not a load-beading member. Err on the side of caution, and mark where your bolts are locked, so if they slide, you can quickly adjust it back to where it was, and torque slightly higher. Or, lock them im place (use the outermost holes) with a "ballpark" camber, and fine tune using an eccentric bolt on the bottom.
CSG Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2016, 03:37 AM   #4032
Northwest86
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Drives: Velocity Orange 86 GT
Location: Australia
Posts: 196
Thanks: 0
Thanked 71 Times in 55 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Generally my advise is whatever the length of the tool, go to firm and its usually about right. Then again my entire job involves doing up bolts on multi million dollar pieces of equipment that can cost tens of millions through downtime.

As for the heat it happens. Get shade, hydrate some people here even bring small fans that they sit in front of. Working in environments where its 45C+ every day and next to equipment running running at 1300C gives you some tolerance I guess. I just have a spare coilpack for the day it starts throwing codes to chuck in.
Northwest86 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Northwest86 For This Useful Post:
CSG Mike (06-18-2016)
 
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Simple question, hard to find answer... Mango22 Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing 5 05-16-2013 06:23 PM
Silly question about protecting track rims sw20kosh Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting 16 04-25-2013 12:34 PM
Asking the question that I already know the answer to. Are the engines the same? Bigmaxy Engine, Exhaust, Transmission 10 01-19-2013 07:47 PM
Random dog-related question for those who have their BRZ GMU-BRZ BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics 11 05-31-2012 07:48 AM
Got my answer - BRZ comes with HID headlights as STD Z_Rocks BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics 20 01-10-2012 09:54 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:01 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.