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Old 10-26-2021, 11:04 AM   #4341
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If we only get an order of 10, it'll be $110, includes all lines, fittings, o-rings and shipping. Everything required to install.
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Old 10-26-2021, 11:31 AM   #4342
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If we only get an order of 10, it'll be $110, includes all lines, fittings, o-rings and shipping. Everything required to install.

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Old 10-26-2021, 11:55 AM   #4343
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This is a whole lot of armchair engineering.

I've seen all of 2 people go to K series motors at this point, so I don't think it is correct to say it is a common thing.

EJ's get shit mileage, have no compression so they only make power when on boost and still blow up all the time. The FA motor is superior, but you are somehow talking about doubling its output and being suprised it blows up.

Why do you need 400 whp? What are your goals? I had ~2700 with an Edelbrock and the car was very quick, breaking traction through 3rd. 400 hp in this car would be nuts on the street. No matter how you go you are looking at $15k to get there with any kind of swap (at least) or a built FA20 and some kind of monster tranny to go along with it.
I didn't say it was common. I was speaking about the same people CSG Mike referred to as rare, the guys that are building their FA's to go over 350whp. The type of people that see multiple track events a year or stress it in a comparable way.
Although, it does make sense that there hasn't been a lot of K swaps out there yet seeing as how the KPower kit is just now starting to ship and based on the thread here in this forum no one has received theirs yet.

I'm familiar with EJs I have a stroked closed deck EJ22T (2.4) in a GC8. What is interesting is it seems there's still not a general consensus 8 years later as to whether the FA is an improvement over the EJ. My point was, and that you sort of made for me was that we know the K24 CAN double its stock crank hp by a significant margin without breaking a sweat and I understand the appeal to go that route if you are trying to go 350+ or want a high revving NA screamer.

Do I need 400whp? Do I even need a car or can I just take a Uber everywhere, or walk? When you say "need" that makes it quite the loaded question. I mean I'll likely never run anything but 295s at 200 treadwear in the rear and it's not going to be a daily. I know roughly what power goal I'm looking for to achieve the feel I want.

I assume most people will use a CD009 adapter and get a custom driveshaft made, or those parts will become a standard kit through KPower or someone else.

I'm not trying to make the case for a K swap I'm just pointing out the obvious.
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Old 10-26-2021, 01:37 PM   #4344
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It seems like instead of people over building the FA20 and still being a guinea pig to see what happens in the 350+ range they are just opting to go K swap instead.

This line of thinking puzzled me at first since I'm playing catch up from reading the early literature on the FA20 to now. Speaking to what someone just commented on which is at first glance everyone was saying how much better the FA series is than the EJ, now it seems like everyone has flip-flopped on that.

It would be nice to be a purist and just for practicality keep the FA, but I certainly understand the rationale for going to a K series and only having to do the most minimum amount of internals to hit 400whp (while also saving 200lbs or so) and if the motor blows who cares there's a used one with under 50K miles for a few hundred bucks right around the corner.

Is this thought process just an oversimplification, and if so what am I missing?
A K swap makes no sense to me, as you're still limited by the factory transmission.
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Old 10-26-2021, 01:39 PM   #4345
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Would I be correct in presuming this is less of a concern with a Rotrex or other centrifugal supercharger setup (E.G. JR / HKS / Vortech) because the torque at lower rpms is less / builds more linearly than the PD blower in the Edelbrock and Harrop kits?

Do you feel that at a mild state of tune (at or slightly above the CARB tune levels for these kits) the Edelbrock / Harrop kits could be long-term reliable on stock internals (100,000 miles+), or is it too much torque too soon in the powerband for the FA20 as-is?
I would say similar, as 400whp of output is still 400whp of output.

If you're not swapping pulleys for more boost, the Edelbrock/Harrop/Jackson kits are all rock solid.
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Old 10-26-2021, 02:01 PM   #4346
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Old 10-26-2021, 04:56 PM   #4347
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A K swap makes no sense to me, as you're still limited by the factory transmission.
I'm making the assumption whoever is going 400+ is also going CD009 if they're using a manual.

Either way you're not wrong. The only logical reason to get a K swap is if you're going 400+ and more specifically on the high end of 400. Which I eventually will be which is why I'm weighing my options of future proofing.
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Old 10-27-2021, 11:01 AM   #4348
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Anyone who is interested in the Remote MAP, please message me so I can get a list going. I think we have 3 people right now?
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If I mistakenly added your name, please let me know.

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Old 10-27-2021, 02:33 PM   #4349
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I'm making the assumption whoever is going 400+ is also going CD009 if they're using a manual.

Either way you're not wrong. The only logical reason to get a K swap is if you're going 400+ and more specifically on the high end of 400. Which I eventually will be which is why I'm weighing my options of future proofing.
By that point, it would be more cost effective to use a larger displacement engine that will be run at a significantly lower stress level, and consequently, have a much longer life.
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Old 10-27-2021, 03:44 PM   #4350
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A small quirk I noticed since install, on the digital speedometer there was a indicator that showed up when I pressed the clutch or when I should upshift for fuel economy(?) on the same screen. Not that I care that it’s gone from the screen but thought it interesting.

My traction control is permanently off too. Buttons do nothing, light on the dash is always on.
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Old 10-27-2021, 08:03 PM   #4351
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By that point, it would be more cost effective to use a larger displacement engine that will be run at a significantly lower stress level, and consequently, have a much longer life.
That makes a lot of sense.

You once told me that a LS swap would significantly alter the driving of the car if I went that route so I took that off the table. So if a customer came into your shop with a blank check wanting a reliable 400-500whp in a 86 that they plan to track but not exclusively what would be your recommendation?
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Old 10-27-2021, 09:07 PM   #4352
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That makes a lot of sense.

You once told me that a LS swap would significantly alter the driving of the car if I went that route so I took that off the table. So if a customer came into your shop with a blank check wanting a reliable 400-500whp in a 86 that they plan to track but not exclusively what would be your recommendation?
Reliable in what context? One-lap wonder? 25 hours of run time? 200 Hours?

I'd probably tell them to take their money to the dealer and just buy a faster base car, unless they're absolutely dead set on having a super fast 86.
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Old 10-28-2021, 09:41 AM   #4353
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Originally Posted by B T View Post
Anyone who is interested in the Remote MAP, please message me so I can get a list going. I think we have 3 people right now?
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dpfarr
boldfin

If I mistakenly added your name, please let me know.
You can add me to that list please
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Old 10-28-2021, 09:47 AM   #4354
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A small quirk I noticed since install, on the digital speedometer there was a indicator that showed up when I pressed the clutch or when I should upshift for fuel economy(?) on the same screen. Not that I care that it’s gone from the screen but thought it interesting.

My traction control is permanently off too. Buttons do nothing, light on the dash is always on.
Total shot in the dark here as I'm not in my car but if you pull up the ecutek app there's a traction control setting that shuts everything off. I don't know if that setting persists between starts or if it would disable the gear shift indicator but it's a quick check. There's definitely something up though
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